How to Upsize a Top - Sustainable Fashion!

I have gained a good amount of weight over the past two years. While I am enjoying my new curvy figure, I do find it hard to part ways with clothes that no longer fit me. So I decided to take this old schiflli top I absolutely adore, and to upsize it.

This project requires a intermediate skill of sewing (confidence in how to use the machine and know how of the basic stitches)

If you are a beginner you could skip the addition of ruffles, and just upsize. Or you could use a top that already fits and add these ruffles.

So lets get started

Supplies

• Top
• Extra fabric
• Sewing supplies (threads, needles, pins, chalk, seam ripper)
• Sewing machine

Step 1: Find Your Inspiration

The first step to any sewing project is to make a game plan.

Here I have my top (I would have tried it on but I am afraid that is not a possibility anymore :P). Along with that I have a strip of fabric I had lying around that I cut from a dress I shortened the length of (I never throw away fabric scraps, I think all DIYers can relate to that). Since both the fabrics have that lovely schiffli embroidery I think they will pair well together.

Now to upsize this top I need to add fabric to the sides. I decided to remove the sleeves and to add that fabric to the sides, I also decided to add ruffles down both sides using the dress fabric to add something extra to the top.

Step 2: Seam Rip and Cut

The next step was to seam rip the side seams and sleeves, I would recommend you seam rip and not cut the seams as every inch is precious when upsizing.

Once seam ripped I ironed all my pices flat to get a measure of how much fabric I am working with.

I measured the bust seam ripped top and it came out to be 18 inches. My bust measured 36 inches, so I decided on adding a 4 inch strip of fabric on both sides (accounting for 4 seam allowances of 1/4 inch and some extra room for ease of movement).

The length of the side was 14 inches thus I cut out two strips 4 inch wide and 14 inch long from both the sleeves.

Step 3: Sew the Sides

I then placed the strip of fabric wrong sides together with the front of the top and sewed them using a simple straight stitch. Since I don't have a serger I just used a zig zag stitch to prevent the seams from fraying.

I ironed the seams flat and them sewed the strip to the back as well. With this I was able to try the top on.

Step 4: Try on to Make Adjustments

I liked the fit of the top over all, but there was a some extra fabric near my armpit (this is common when you make a sleeved garment sleeveless). So while the top was still on my body, using some pins I made a dart. This step will be much easier if you have a dress form.

I them traced the shaped of the dart using some chalk and transferred it on the other side as well. Then I sewed these darts in place and ironed them flat. I tried the top on again and was pleased with how it fit.

Step 5: Making the Cut for the Ruffles

I then proceed the fold the shirt along the centre front and back (so that the side seams were in the middle), and make a straight line 4 inches from the centre front and another lines 4 inches away from the centre back. These two lines joined at the shoulder seam.

With the top still folded along the centre back and front, I cut along the marked lines, this cut the top in three parts. Which I have played out in the last photo.

Step 6: Adding the Ruffle

I cut the skirt fabric in two equal parts (unfortunately I didn't measure it, but it was definitely 1.5 times as long as the open seam we just created).

Since I had cut this strip off a dress, one side was already hemmed, reducing some of my work. I sewed a basting stitch along the open side of the fabric and pulled on the stitch until it was the same length as the seam in the top.

I attached the ruffle wrong side together with the mid section of top (one with the neck hole). And then I attached the side piece to the mid and ruffle (with the ruffle sandwiched in between) and finished the seam with a zig zag stitch.

I repeated the same steps to the other side.

Step 7: Add the Finishing Touches

To finish off I topstitch the ruffle down away from the centre. Also using the leftover material from the sleeve I created some bias tape to finish off the armholes. I also hemmed the bottom.

And I was done!

Step 8: And Its Done!

I am stoked with how it turned out! I can picture myself wearing this on casual day outs with jeans or a skirt.

I am so happy I could save this old top of mine and give it a new life all without going to the store.

I hope you try this DIY out and share pictures in the comments!

Happy sewing!