How to Build Halo Armor

59,579

227

204

Introduction: How to Build Halo Armor

Hey guys, this is my entry for three contests!  Halloween, Office Supplies, and Gorilla Glue!  I'll be showing you how to make Halo armor!  I really need to add more to this intro..  what should I add?

PS.  Vote for me!!!  :D

Step 1: Materials

Cover/card stock
Scissors
Butter knife
Exacto knife / box cutter
Cutting board
Glue  (If you like, use gorilla glue.  It is stronger, but in the long run it won't make any difference after fiberglassing, but any glue would work.  The reason I have chosen this one is just to save money)

Time
Computer
Printer

Pepakura Viewer

A helmet file to be used with pepakura:
MK VI  by FLYINGSQUIRL
RECON  by Kirrou
ODST  by BELAKOR

In my opinion, the MK VI is the most difficult, but it is the most popular.  If you want simpler models, then just post a comment and I'll give you a link to one!

Step 2: Scaling

If you are making a helmet, skip this step.

If you are building body armor, you have to do this step, unless you are 7 feet tall.

To start, go to the link for pepakura, but download the designer version instead.  

1)  Open up your armor file in it.

2)  Click "2D Menu" -> "Change Scale" -> "Scale Factor"

3)  Now depending on your hight, you will have to scale the armor differently.  I will only cover the MK IV armor because each has a different ratio to your body hight and there are way too many pieces to cover.  First find your hight in millimeters.  You can do this by finding your hight in inches, (not feet), and then multiplying it by 25.4.  Use this picture as reference.  Measure how big the the guy is in the picture, then how big the armor is in comparison.  Once you have that ratio, apply it to your own hight.  Enter that into the hight option in the scaling menu, and the rest will automatically change according to the scale.  Also make sure to measure from the highest and lowest points.  You will have to measure the shoe according to your own shoe size.  Just measure the length of your show, then enter that into the scaling menu.

Armor Piece Download Link
ChestLinky :)
BicepLinky :)
ForearmLinky :)
Hand-platesLinky :)
COD plateLinky :)
ThighLinky :)
ShinLinky :)

Step 4)  Now some pieces on the right side may be crossing over the lines and that's not good, because then they will print half on one page and half on another.  Just move them around until they all fit inside of pages, then all you have to do is print.

Step 3: Pepping

The first step in building Halo armor is called pepping, which is just completing the paper stage of the build.  If you have done step 1 (which you have to do if you are doing any piece other than a helmet), then skip to "3)"

1)  Open your file in Pepakura Viewer.

2)  Print it out onto your cardstock.

3)  Crease every single dotted line with your butter knife,  This is a long and tedious process, but if you don't do it then your pieces will be extremely hard to fold, and will not look nearly as crisp or sharp.

4)  Cut out your pieces, if you are not comfortable using an exacto knife, then use scissors.  This is also a long process, but do not give up it is worth it in the end :)

5)  Start gluing your pieces together.  The numbers on the pieces represent which pieces they go together with.  For example, 213 will be glued with 213.

6)  You are going to have to do this with every single piece, It will be boring, but as always, definitely worth it!

Step 4: Resining

BEFORE STARTING:  Fiberglass resin is very toxic, you should only do this in a well ventilated area such as outside, or with a respirator.  Also make sure to use disposable gloves.  You WILL NOT be able to avoid getting some of this onto your hands.  This stuff is very hard to get off, and I regret not wearing gloves 2 showers later :P Fiberglassing is the next step, for all those who are wondering.  Also, make sure to only do this step on the outside.

Some things you will need:  I forgot to add the paintbrush, sorry :(

1)  The piece you will be fiberglassing

2)  A fiberglass repair kit I bought for about $25 Canadian.  If you can find it, it includes numbers 3-6

3)  Fiberglass resin ($15)

4)  Fiberglass resin hardener ($5)

5)  Fiberglass mat ($5) (Not needed for this step)

6)  Squeegee-like thing for spreading body filler ($3) (Not needed for this step)

7)  Plastic cup and something to mix with

Steps:

8)  Open your can of resin (That was hard wasn't it?  XD)

9)  Pour some into your cup.  The amount in the picture was enough for my entire helmet (the outside).  After that, put the lid back on.  You don't want all those fumes in the air do you?

10)  Pour a few drops of hardener into the resin.  I used 5 drops for the amount of resin I used.

11)  Mix

12)  Dip your paintbrush in and "paint" the mixture onto your helmet.  Make sure to do a light coat, or else it will warp.

13)  Just a picture of my progress while working

14)  A resined helmet!

Now leave your helmet somewhere to dry, make sure it doesn't touch anything though.  What I did was I put my bike on it's side, and put my helmet over the handle.

Step 5: Fiber-Glassing

Now you have to fiberglass the INSIDE.  Make sure to take all the same precautions as resining.  Also make sure that the resin from the previous step is completely dry before starting this.

Some things you will need:  I forgot to add the paintbrush, sorry :(

1)  Gloves

2)  Fiberglass resin

3)  Fiberglass matt

4)  A resined helmet

5)  Something to work on

Steps:

6)  Get out you fiberglass matt

7)  Cut it into a bunch of small strips like how I have it.  Also make sure to make a pile of really small pieces, for those tight areas

8)  Pour some resin into your cup.  You are going to need a lot more than how much you did for the previous step

9)  Put in some hardener.  Use you judgement to determine how many drops you need

10)  Stir it up

11)  Apply some resin to a small area, just slightly larger than one piece

12)  Put your piece down on top of the resin

13)  Now put some more resin on top of the piece of fiberglass matt, so that it will change colors and it may even become see-through.  Try to dab the brush rather than paint the resin on.  If you try painting it on then some of the fibers will stick to the brush and you will get a big sloppy mess.

14)  Keep going until you have done the entire inside of the helmet.  Some areas will be trickier than others

15)  Yay you're done!  Now just leave it to dry.  When it's dry, you will be very surprised at how strong and hard it is!

Step 6: Finishing

Once I've added my own instructions for finishing the armor, I will split this up into more steps but unil then there is no need to.

Until I've posted instructions, you should follow these tutorials.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6
Part 7

Gorilla Glue Make It Stick Contest

Finalist in the
Gorilla Glue Make It Stick Contest

Halloween Contest

Participated in the
Halloween Contest

Be the First to Share

    Recommendations

    • Sticky Stuff Speed Challenge

      Sticky Stuff Speed Challenge
    • Toys & Games Contest

      Toys & Games Contest
    • Big vs Small Challenge

      Big vs Small Challenge

    204 Comments

    0
    talonsblade
    talonsblade

    10 years ago on Step 2

    Measure how big the the guy is in the picture, then how big the armor is in comparison

    0
    MotaBoi
    MotaBoi

    Reply 10 years ago on Step 2

    That's exactly right

    0
    ~Aeronous~
    ~Aeronous~

    10 years ago on Step 2

    WHERE IS THE LINK TO THE ARMOR??!?!?!?!?!?!!!???!??! GAHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    0
    MotaBoi
    MotaBoi

    Reply 10 years ago on Step 2

    Sorry I'm not finished these instructions yet I dont know why its already posted :S

    0
    ~Aeronous~
    ~Aeronous~

    Reply 10 years ago on Step 2

    What do I have to do once I have my height? What do I change?

    0
    MotaBoi
    MotaBoi

    Reply 10 years ago on Step 2

    Sorry, I'll post on your wall or something when I'm done. You should work on the helmet for now.

    0
    ~Aeronous~
    ~Aeronous~

    Reply 10 years ago on Step 2

    Aww crap. When I printed it, I did all the pepping, but I accidently scaled it down to fit on my page. I guess a kitten could wear it.

    0
    MotaBoi
    MotaBoi

    Reply 10 years ago on Step 2

    Haha sorry :( try again :P

    0
    RampantMuffin
    RampantMuffin

    Reply 10 years ago on Step 2

    http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/24086-*The-Official*-Halo-Reach-Pepakura-Files-Thread
    http://halocostuming.wikia.com/wiki/Pepakura_File_Index here's a couple links

    0
    NateDog32
    NateDog32

    4 years ago

    How do I download the program for the armor and helmet blue prints???

    0
    Red hood
    Red hood

    5 years ago

    Somebody call me if you can help my number is 254-833-3453

    0
    Red hood
    Red hood

    5 years ago

    Somebody call me if you can help my number is 254-833-3453

    0
    Red hood
    Red hood

    5 years ago

    Please help I'm trying to make a red hood helmet and have no idea how

    0
    wraith109
    wraith109

    6 years ago on Introduction

    I would like to use this method on another project, and I am curious, can I use fiberglass resin on poster board foam?

    0
    zeroaxe
    zeroaxe

    6 years ago on Introduction

    Dear MotaBoi and everyone else that want to work with fiberglass,

    If I may, having worked with fiberglass a lot in the past, may I give some tips?

    1. Do not cut your fiberglass. Tear it in squares instead. The reason for this is because when you cut the fiberglass, you have 'hard and straight' edges. when you overlap the FG, you get hard lines. And there is a change that you can trap air under the one mat (see my crude image from MS Paint ;) ). The blue is supposed to be an air bubble, lol. When you tear the mat and overlap them, you have soft edges that 'disappear' when they over lap and resin is applied. OF COURSE, if you don't mind the 'hard edge' look, or it is just to create a master mould, this should not matter.

    2. Using torn mat will reduce sanding down ridges caused by cut mat.

    3. The original poster mentioned dabbing the resin on the mat. Reason for this is to get rid of air trapped under the (wet) mat being applied. See it as if you are stabbing at balloons with a needle. Or popping bubble wrap (cause everyone just LOOOVVEESSS popping bubble wrap! ;) )

    There are still a lot of other tricks of the trade working with FG, but for this instructable these these are of most relevance.

    Thank you for the link for the HALO Mark VI helmet. I hope to start with mine soon!

    Happy building people!

    ___0.jpg