How to Make Your Own Fallout 3 Helmet Prop!

Today I`m gonna show you how to make your very own Fallout 3 Power Armor helmet prop!
If you follow theese steps you should have a very nice looking prop!

Step 1: Materials

Ok, theese are the materials and programs you need:

- Pepakura Designer 3: www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/
- Helmet.pdo: http://www.4shared.com/file/VaaygDPp/Power_Armour_Helmet__A4_.html
-Thick paper (Can be buyed at any Hardware store)
- Fiberglass resin (Can be buyed at any marine shop)
- Fiberglass mat (Can also be buyed at any marine shop)
- Bondo Body Filler (Can be buyed at any Hardware store)
- Dremel Multitool
- Spray paint (Can be buyed at any Hardware store)
- Gloves (Can be buyed at any Hardware store)
- Safety gasmask (Can be buyed at any Hardware store)

Step 2: Pepakura Progress

Pepakura Designer 3
Pepakura Designer allows you to create a development for paper craft easily from 3D data used in 3D CG software. You can load a 3d image and make adjustments (not featured in this tutorial) or you can load already saved files from Pepakura and print them out to assemble a 3d object using only paper!
The .pdo files that are shared here are saved to be printed on A4 paper. This is a universal standard size paper, however it is not what is typically used here in the United States. To use 8 1/2" x 11" paper (Letter) or 8 1/2" x 14" paper (Legal) we will have to change the settings and manipulate the images to make sure they fit on the paper. But don't worry, we will cover that in this tutorial. ;-)
If you are planning on using the print-outs from Pepakura to place onto another medium (such as cardboard or foam board) you can easily print the designs on regular computer or copy paper. However, if you plan on using your printed pieces of paper as your main structure, I recommend printing on card stock paper. You can find bundles of card stock at just about any paper store, or for a much easier (and probably cheaper) find, head over to your local Wal-Mart.

Step 3: Cutting and Folding

This is a tutorial on how to fold the lines on Pepakura correctly and clean.
Cut only the Solid lines!!! do not cut the dotted ones!!
Picture coming soon

1. Your going to need 2 Pens and a ruler. Make sure that the 2 pens are each different colors.)

2. You must assign the pens to a certain fold. (remember you must keep them the same through out the procedure)

Example:
Red Pen = Valley fold lines (--- - --- - --- - --- -)
Blue Pen = Mountain fold lines (- - - - - - - - - - - -)

3. Cut out the piece you are going to be folding.
4. Set up the Ruler so it is parallel to the line you are going to score, make sure that it is a bit close.

5. Then your going to want take the pen you assigned to valley fold or mountain fold and go over the line 3 or 4 times pressing semi hard with the ruler as a guide to keeping the pen straight and on the original line.

6. Once you have done that you may fold the paper accordingly to come out as a nice clean fold.

Yes this may add more time to the making of your helmet, but in the end you are stunned with a nice looking piece.

Step 4: Putting It All Together

Step 3: putting it all together.

You will need your choice of glue. I reccomend hot glue but this may cause burns. Normal elmers glue dries way too slow so it is not recommended.

When putting peices together its important to know how they go together. For example
1 will go to 1
2 will go to 2
3 will go to 3
Anything will go with another number that is the same. Put a dab of glue on the tab and secure it to its corrosponding edge.

Step 5: Resining

----------Resining with "Resin"----------

Get Materials Together
Materials:
- Resin
- Liquid hardener
- Brush(s), reallys it's personal preferance
- Container(top of resin can)
- Tinfoil(to put inside container so it can be reused)
- Mixing stick or the like
- Knife/Scissors

Before you jump into any thing you first want to make sure you're in a well ventilated area and you have a large enough work area for the piece you will be working on.

Step 1) The first thing you need to do is clean the surface of the object that you will be resining. Make sure it is free of debris and foreign objects.

Step 2) Next add the correct amount of Liquid Hardener. (READ DIRECTIONS!! Too much will cause the resin to harden within a couple minuets.)

Mix the two together for 10-15seconds and remove stiring stick.(wipe off excess resin on stick.)

>>>WARNING: Never mix a new batch with an old one, the onld will start to harden the new one instantly<<<

Step 3) Now dip your brush into the resin and load it up with a moderate amount, not dripping off. If there is excess just wipe it on the edge of the container so that it flows back in.

Apply the resin to your piece starting at the seams first and the working your way around. You start at the seam to make sure it gets a healty amount of resin to give it support.

Remember to work quickly as the clock is against you. After you have used the desired amount of resin on the piece let it dry.

Step 6: Fiberglassing

FIBRE GLASSING

***Take the usual precautions as above; work in a well ventilated area, cover your work space, wear a respirator, and so on.

Now after that has been done get your tools and materials ready(again)

Part 1) After you have your tools and materials ready go ahead and lay out your fibre glass sheet

Part 2) Next you want to cut your sheet in half

Part 3) After you have your sheet cut in 2 fold up one half and put it to the side for the time being.

Part 4) With the half sheet you have in front of you cut it in half again, then cut half of that in half.

Part 5) Now it is time to cut the sheets into strips for easier workability.
Try and aim for strips roughly 3" wide.
the long ones should be approximately 3"x14" and the short ones 3"x8"
After that stack them together

Part 6) Now take your piece (helmet in this case) and set it on your table.
Use some tape to make any nessecary adjustments

Step 7: Detailing

How to mix bondo body filler:

1) Get a FLAT clean surface made of plastic or metal (plywood is not acceptable).

2) Scoop a 4" diameter dollop of filler onto the surface.

3) Squeeze out a 1-3" line of hardener. A 1" line is what is called mixing the putty "cold". This means you will have more time to work with it, but it takes considerably longer to dry. If you use too little hardener it will never dry and will always be sticky. If you use a full 3" line of hardener you will be mixing it "hot" This will give you quick drying times and a very hard finish. Unfortunately it will be more brittle than mixing it cold. 2" is the median and is what I would recommend.

Using a putty knife, fold the hardener vigorously into the putty so that it is mixed evenly. Don't take too long doing this or the filler will begin to harden while you are mixing.

Now carefully apply a generous amount of putty to the area you are trying to fill or shape.

When the putty is hard but can still be dented by your fingernail use a small Sureform file to roughly shape the putty. You can also use some 80 grit sandpaper for this.

Now allow the putty to cure completely. When cured it will be hard like plastic, and will be giving off no heat.

Now do your final forming with some 360 grit sandpaper, elbow grease and finish it up with 1200 grit for painting.