How to Sew Sequins

Intro: How to Sew Sequins

When working on a recent project and trying to decide on what method to use, I found there weren't many tutorials with pictures for sewing sequins.   So here's a few different methods of hand-sewing sequins for embellishment!  This is by no means all the ways of using sequins, it's just a few examples to get you started. :)

I'm using a bright color of thread for better visibility; when doing this for real you'd want a thread that matches your sequins and/or fabric.

What you need:

Loose sequins - flat or cupped
Beading needle (most regular hand-sewing needles won't fit through seed beads)
Seed beads or tiny crystals (optional)
Thread conditioner or plain beeswax to keep your thread from tangling
Regular sewing thread or beading thread (your preference)

STEP 1: Simple Overlap Stitch

This gives the same look that you get from pre-strung sequins. 

Bring the needle up through the fabric and string one sequin.  If you're using cupped sequins as shown, you can choose to have the cup facing up or down (it's personal preference and what effect you want).  Some people find cup-side-down snags less.

Take the needle back down through the fabric just beside the sequin (stitching one side of the sequin down), and then come back up very close to the edge.  String another sequin through the center and repeat.  The overlap will cover your stitches and hide the thread.

STEP 2: Backstitch

This is the same as a regular hand-sewing backstitch, just with sequins. It's good for when you need a super-flat line that won't snag.  I find it works best on flat sequins, or cupped ones sewn cup side down.  I'm right-handed, so I work right to left; reverse if you're left-handed.

Bring your needle up through the center of a sequin.  Go back down into the fabric just to the side of the sequin, bringing it up a short distance on the other side.  You want the needle to come out where the center of the next sequin will be, so evaluate that distance based on the size of your sequins.

Thread on a second sequin, then go back down through the center of the LAST sequin.  Come back up on the far side of the second sequin and repeat - go back down through the last one, then forward.

Your thread WILL show with this stitch so you want a matching thread.  For a fancier version, you can thread beads in-between each sequin to hide the thread; however this does give a more dimensional effect if you're going for super-flat.

STEP 3: Sequins With Diagonal Beading

This is a great stitch for edging appliqué pieces or just outlining motifs.

Bring your needle up through the fabric and thread a sequin, then seed beads (the number of beads depends on the size of your sequins).  Go back down through the fabric a short distance diagonally along the line you're outlining.

Come back up next to your first sequin; if you have to place the new sequin first to make sure your spacing is correct, do so.  Repeat until you've got a nice line!

You can also do this backwards (beads first, then sequin to finish); it's a personal preference which way to work.

STEP 4: Two-sequin Line With Beads

This is another decorative variation. 

Bring the needle up and thread a sequin, then some seed beads (as before, the number depends on the size of your sequins).  Thread another sequin (make sure they're facing the right way, if they're cupped sequins) and go back down through the fabric.

Bring the needle back up a short distance away; the distance is your preference.  You can have the pairs right next to each other or have a bit more space.

Depending on how many beads you use and how tightly you pull them, pairs of cupped sequins will angle towards each other and create an interesting texture.  If you use more beads that the distance requires, the beads will loop up in a small arch (again, gives a slightly different look).

STEP 5: Individual Sequins With Bead Stopper

You can sew individual sequins just by coming up through the center and then down one side, but the thread will show.

To sew single sequins without visible thread, bring the needle up through the center and then string one seed bead in a matching (or contrasting for a different effect) color. 

Then go back down through the center of the sequin again, being careful not to go back through the bead a second time!  This secures the sequin with the bead as a stopper.  For extra flash you can use tiny crystals instead of seed beads.

You can also use this method to make short dangles or loops by threading multiple seed beads before going back through the sequin.

STEP 6: Sequin Backstitch With Trailing Beads

Another decorative variation good for outlining, or for filling in areas if the rows are offset.  You can also scatter these (one sequin with trailing beads) instead of putting them in a line.

Bring the needle up through the fabric and thread on a few beads (how many is your preference) and a sequin.  Make sure all your sequins are facing the same way if they're cupped.

To make a line, go back down through the fabric and come back up to the left (to the right if you're left-handed and working left to right).  The exact distance will be determined by how big your sequins are and how many beads you're using.

Thread on more beads and another sequin, and go back down right where your last stitch ended.  Repeat.

To scatter this motif, take a few small stitches on the wrong side to secure everything after each bead/sequin combo is sewn down.

Comments

[NikkiM73]

I the overlap stitch the one that makes it possible to rub them one direction and the change if colored on the other side

[bird21b]

I created an account just to thank you for this article! It is very organized and clear, which made attempting to sew sequins less intimidating. I was able to repair a dress I'd originally planned on taking to a professional. I really appreciate your taking the time to share this. Thank you so much!

[Cosplaysupplies]

I'm so glad this was helpful to you! Congrats on fixing the dress on your own!

[ajtherealestatelady]

Hi What kind of needle are you using that will fit though the seed bead?

I’m planning to use faux leather so it will have to be small yet string enough to go through.

Thank you I’m advance

[Cosplaysupplies]

For the smaller beads you need to use a beading needle, which are thinner than standard sewing needle. To get through leather, you want a shorter beading needle to reduce the risk of bending the needle going through leather.

[InnaE]

Thank you for the instructions. It helps since I had a jeweled kit without instructions. Now I understand how to make it! Your instructions are clear, thanks.

[MarieC30]

In the individual one with bead stopper, how do you secure the underside please?

[Cosplaysupplies]

To finish the back, you take a few small stitches and/or make a half-knot by making a stitch, then putting the needle through the loop before tightening. Do this a couple of times for security. This is the same technique used to finish any hand-stitching.

[DeniseR82]

very nice tutorial. do you know the best way to make a flower type design wit sequins and seed beads to embellish an applique? this is my soon to be daughter in law's wedding dress, the beading needs be redone, how would you do this design? thank you

[nonna anna]

Great ideas - great tutorial. What kind of needle are you using when working with the seed beads? It doesn't look like a flexi beading needle. Thanks

[evacooper]

very helpful

[liliy]

Hi

[kitwench]

Thanks for the great tutorial- I'm finally tackling my T-shirt sequin project and its coming along nicely thanks to your tute!

[Penolopy Bulnick]

I've been wanting to do this for a while. Thanks for the tutorial!

[lemuries]

This was exactly what I needed to solve my project problem. Thank you!

[scoochmaroo]

Wow, great tutorial!