## Introduction: IR Power Finger

Hello, my enthusiastic friends this is my first tutorial on instructables and today I'm here to take your pain away remember the moment which you have experienced or are right now when you lose your TV remote and then start going around the living room like a lost puppy or are just bored to move your hand and grab the remote which is 10 inches away but feels like 25000 miles? If yes, then you came to the right place, If no, then why not make this in the name of science and learning? So with that being said here is a brief description on why I'm pointing my hand like a dictator:-

This is called the IR-PF the IR stands for infrared because there are infrared led's on the tip of my finger and the PF stands for power finger which is suppose to state that i have power in my fingers :). When worn the IR-PF gives the user freedom of not touching the TV remote as it itself is one but not a one which sends signals when the user presses on the switch but when he moves his finger in a specific way, for e.g. When the x axis on the 3 axis accelerometer is over value of 300 the IR-PF will send a change of channels signal through the IR led's to a TV other axis have also been used and I plan to make this smaller.

## Step 1: Get the Parts

You will need:-

1. 3 axis accelerometer X 1 --- 14.95\$

2. An arduino ( I will talk about which one in specific below) X 1 ---- depends but a range of --- 8 -24\$

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11113

3. 16 mhz crystal for the Atmega328 and Two 22pf capacitors to stabalize the crystal.

4. High range leds X 2 -- 95 cents each

5. A ring or something that will go on your finger that's steady and hold the accelerometer, Ir led and the Atmega328

6. 38khz IR sensor

7. CR2032 battery and battery holder.

8. Cable, Laptop, Soldering Iron, Solder wire, Copper wire, Jumper wire etc.

## Step 2: IR-PF#1

The version that we are about to make is the IR-PF#5 this is the fifth one the older ones and much bigger and this one is the smallest version until now.

IR-PF#1- It was made with just the arduino uno and was a straight forward prototype. It consisted of a n Arduino Uno on the users wrist.

## Step 3: IR-PF#2

This is the version 2 this version was planned such that the Attiny85 IC would as the Atmega328. But unfortunately it never worked because it require the disabling of the internal fuses which stopped the Serial comunication with arduino. That means it couldn't be programmed via arduino environment.

## Step 4: IR-PF#3

So one night as I was just about to sleep while thinking about this project and how to make this project smaller as it was too big for any realistic use a thought hit me an obvious and clear thought that I never needed the Arduino but just the Atmega328p the actual microprocessor with no time to waste I jumped out of the bed made a quick prototype and tested it... and it worked. It was a tiny thing which would fit the finger but the index finger was being covered and was useless which was the problem that was raised. The IR-PF#4 was made to counter act this problem but it was too big and looked like a sandwich... and thus was born the IR-PF#5.

## Step 5: IR-PF#5

The IR-PF#5 is the latest version the battery of this version is a coin cell battery CR2032 which was a leading factor that made this smaller. The circuit has been covered which gave it its body. The IC holder was removed so that some space is saved. This is the better version than others but they basically have the components. You could add a touch switch so that when your thumb the left part of IR-PF it completes the circuit and saves a great amount of battery which would increase its battery life.

## Step 6: How Does It Work?

It is very important to know how it or anything in this world and outside works even an "led".

Arduino - Arduino is the go-to micro controller for me and a lot of people out there. If you have an arduino and have some knowledge on it you might want to skip this but those who have no idea or somewhat idea stay with me. An arduino is a micro controller which controls digital outputs 1/0 and analog outputs for a 5v logic micro controller that is 0 - 1023 bits of data. For more on that topic watch this video on youtube the credit goes to Jeremy Blum who has an excellent collection of youtube videos that he made of arduino.

So the arduino you select has a direct impact on this project. Each arduino and ATINY 85( an IC which can be programmed by an arduino to mimic some functions) more info on Attiny 85 and how to use it by randofo who has made a great instructable on AT TINY 85 https://www.instructables.com/id/Program-an-ATtiny-... so yes as I was saying all the arduino's and ATINY 85's have a crystal inside it with a fixed value 1Mhz , 8Mhz, and 16Mhz they are the ones who keep the track of time so for our purpose of pulsing an IR led to match that of your TV remote we would need a 16mhz internal or external crystal. The Attiny 85 does not come with an internal crystal of 16mhz so if you choose to use that you will need to buy a seperate 16mhz crystal. I am using an Arduino UNO in the pictures you saw but you could use any arduino with 16mhz crystal.

Accelerometer- An accelerometer is a device used to detect acceleration. The word accele means accelerate and ometer means meter so acceleration meter and then the axis's (x, y, z).

Ir led- Infrared is a part of electromagnetic spectrum which comes just before visible light we can't see it but old cameras can so don't think that your Ir led is not working if you don't see light on your iphone 5, 4 or any other new phones. The led that we would use in our project is going to be pulsed at a frequency of 38khz or 38000 hertz this is the frequency that the TV is looking for. This is really important and with out this our project would never work. So its not only about 38khz its also about how many times the led went "on" and "off" while being pulsed at 38khz. Now its really like switching a light on and off but the difference being that it switches in microseconds which is 1 millionth of a second, so yeah I don't think if anyone can press a switch "on" and "off" that fast.

## Step 7: Program the ATMEGA328

Take out the ATMEGA328 from the Arduino Uno and replace it with the ATMEGA328 which we are going to be using.

Connect the arduino to the computer and upload this code:-

This code will turn on and off your sony tv and change the volume you can make it do anything.

Now take out the ATMEGA328 and get ready for soldering it.

## Step 8: Make It

This circuit is not going to be soldered on a perf board to minimize the space needed. The pins on ATMEGA328 are all bent to 90 degrees which makes it much flatter.

Make a aluminium ring which coils up once and is 1/2 inch wide or 1 inch depending on the size of your finger.

You can use any thing which acts as a ring.

First hot glue the accelerometer facing down on the bottom side of the ring.

Then solder all the components together

1. Follow the schematic above and connect the wires from accelerometer to ATMEGA328 the xaxis to 23, y to 24 and z to 25.

2. Then connect two led's in parallel i.e. the positive of one led to the positive of another and same with the negative poles.

3. Finally connect the + positive of the led's pin to pin 13 on arduino and the negative to negative on arduino

4. Then follow the schematic of the standalone arduino and connect the 16 mhz crystal to pin 9 and 10 doesn't matter which direction and connect the capacitors.

5. Connect the 5v together and the GND together.

6. Then connect the 5v and GND to the battery holders(CR2032) GND and positive pin. and cover it up such that the circuit is no longer visible and looks like a product.

## Step 9: Decoding

I will show you how to decode the IR code from your TV remote but if your super excited and can't wait to try it out then try it out.

Try it out by moving your hand as if you were touching a touch screen with the screen being the your TV (don't actually poke your TV, do it from a distance)