Introduction: Realistic MK 42 Iron Man Glove 3D Printed With Weathering
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Awestruck by the world of prop making, I decided to contribute into it by creating props form my favourite movie- Iron Man. I decided to recreate 3 props, the gloves, the arc reactor, and the helmet.
Since I had recently created my own 3d printer, I decided to make all my props by printing them.
Also check out my ARC REACTOR build HERE
Parts/Files
I got the fingers from HERE- Scaled(90%)
I got the palm part from HERE -Scaled(130%)
I got the top gold shield from HERE - Scaled (110%)
I will also Attach a Folder with the palm peices CUT for easy printing. NOTE- this is not scaled, and you will have to scale it. I scaled this part to 130% as you can see above. The cutting was done using netfabb
Step 1: Smoothning
Since the 3d print was a little rough, and not exactly what I wanted it to be, I decided to make it smooth. I reside in Singapore, and it is incredibly difficult to source auto mobile epoxy, bondo or any filler, therefore I had to settle for regular epoxy.
By trial and error, I found a epoxy which was both inexpensive, and easy to sand off. I mixed and applied thin coats of epoxy and used 80,120,240,1000 grit sand paper in that order to achieve a smooth finish.
Alternatively you could use some sort of spray primer to fill in the gaps between 3d printed layers, and get a similar finish.
Step 2: Attaching the Fingers and the Glove
I glued the parts of the glove together using super glue, and a mixture of epoxy to smooth out the joints.
To join all the finger together, I had to meticulously sand each of the sligid covers, and then I joined them with some elastic band. I used three pieces of elastic bands to join the fingers together, and finally join them to the glove.
Since I wanted to be able to wear the glove, the top piece was not glued in but rather, I used velcro, and you can see how it is done in the photos above.
Step 3: Painting, and Weathering
First I applied a base coat of white to hide all the dark filler epoxy that I had used. Next I painted a thick silver coat.
On top of that I painted a light red coat. All this was painted using spray paints. On the golden part I followed the exact same procedures, but I substituted the red for gold.
To weather the glove, I took a round file, and filled away the top layer of paint. his revealed the silver metallic layer, giving the appearance of a scratched up and battle damaged piece. you can see the pictures for a better understanding
Also check out my ARC REACTOR BUILD HERE
That's it If you have more questions, please feel free to ask them in the comments section down below
Enroll in my 'Electronics in a nutshell' course here: https://www.udemy.com/electronics-in-a-nutshell/?...
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4 Comments
8 years ago
Any way you could email the palm file that you used? I also found all those same files on the RPF, but had issues with getting the two palm parts to fit together. Did you have issues?
Reply 8 years ago on Introduction
Strange. I don' have the files anymore, and I did not modify the ones on the website. Plus I would not want to post files without permission of the author. Anyway, I did not modify the files other than scaling all of them up. All of them fit just fine. Make sure that all the parts have the same scale. Hope that this helps.
8 years ago on Introduction
Could you post the file for the left palm that you used? The only one converted on the website is the right handed palm. thanks
Reply 8 years ago on Introduction
You could download netfabb and mirror the parts along the x axis. For me, my 3d printer was setup incorrectly so it mirrored the part unintentionally. But now it is fixed. I was too far in the printing stage to reprint it. Now my machine firmware is fixed. Hope this helps