Introduction: Jewelry Armoire

About: Well my name is Brian, I live in Toledo, Iowa with my beautiful wife & Daughter, I play guitar and drums and I love working on guitars and trying to experiment with building. Work alot with scrap wood in my ga…
This is a Jewelry Armoire I built for my wife for Christmas this year (Yes, I gave it to her early). Basically put together with scrap wood I had in the garage, and I did cheat for the trim and went to Ace Hardware.

Step 1: Starting the Table

Usually I pretty well document any project I work on, but in this case i just got really into getting this table built, so I only have a few pics of the table assembly for this but ill guide you through, the first pic here is the table top, measurements for the board are 16"x13 1/2", also rounded out the edges. You can also see my homemade router table

Step 2: Table and Table Drawer

Just had A thin piece of board for the bottom, and sides, I show more side assembly while building the armoire if it is something you are not familiar with, had some table legs around I used...... well.... for the table legs, had a piece of plyboard for the bottom, with 2 inch squares cut out on the sides for the legs to fit through, cut the boards for the sides and put it all together, I apologize for the lack of pics for the table but I got caught up in building, you know how that works I'm sure. Measurements for the Legs are cut to 2'

Step 3: Starting the Armoir

For the sides of the Armoir I took about an old door with a great finish and used the outer part of the door for the side but its pretty thin. The I cut some 1"x1" boards for stability and to attatch the slider bars for the drawers to. I left about 3-4 inches of room up top to fit in the cavity under the lid, also shown is the cut for the back, sides are 1'x3', back is 14"x3'. These were cuts made from the shell of the door. Also the stability boards are cut to 33" to leave room for the cavity. Put the boards on the sides and one in the middle, After making the back cut which is 3'x14, and attatched it from the edges to the back stability boards on the sides. Used a table top saw for most of the cutting for this project. If your a beginner dont forget to wear them goggles, splinters may hurt in your fingers and your eyeballs hurt a bit more. Also remember not to put multiple cuts on one board, that sawblade isnt paper thin. My method is to make measurement on both sides, make the cut and the measure again. Im no expert and i'm sure 99% of people looking at this already know their way around the workshop, but for that 1%, I'll try to help you out as much as I can.

Step 4: Top Board, Drawer Fronts & Lid

Put in a bar for leverage which is cut the 3"x14" for front and back, backs put in later, also started with the drawer fronts measured at 1' x 3/8", also got the edges rounded, seven drawers all together, also got the lid cut and rounded with the cut at 14 1/2" x 1' 3/4"

Step 5: Drawer Assembly

Made the cuts for the drawers, sides measure in at 9"x2" (14 pieces in all if your making 7 drawers), and the front and back measure in at 11 1/2" x 2", i suggest using a corner clamp for this part, I managed to assemble them without one but it would have saved me much time to use the corner clamp (bought one recently and trust me, it helps) used the remaining parts of the door for the drawer bottoms

Step 6: Starting to Stain

Stained the drawer fronts and some trim I cut earlier, also got the lid stained and the back brace for stability and for the hinges for the lid to screw in to. I know Menards is a great place for handles and hinges at great prices. A great method for staining is a rag, I have a bunch of old t-shirts that i ripped up for staining, just dip in and rub it on, unlike paint the stain will stay in the wood and not rub off, your only rubbing off the excess, to make it a little easier I used a foam brush to get into the corners of the rounded edges.

Step 7: Lid & Lid Cavity

Made the cut for the inner lid cavity, this can be the same measurement as the bottom (14"x1') , plus put sides in (11"), Stained it and laid in the felt, installed the hinges and the lid. Also got the trim cut and stained, this is where I cheated a little and bought the trim form Ace Hardware, fairly cheap stuff. Cut the trim to the Front and back being 14" and sides being 12 1/2". For laying in the felt I used some cheap all purpose glue in the babric section of Wal Mart, not remembering the brand but it worked well, im sure regular Elmer's white will do the same, I laid in the full piece and ran a pen alont the edges cutting right on the lines, if you are a small bit off on your fabric cut, dont panic, Itll be ok, just move the fabric along and it should stretch to fit.

Step 8: Drawer Handles and Full Drawer Assembly

Centered out the handle so they were all even, for this it's fairly simple, Measure out the length and width of the drawer front and the handle, find your middle ground and screw it in, for the first handle I installed i was dead on, for the next one I got the square level out and had the flat end across the outside of the handle and i just guestimated the middle spot and put it in. Also centered board onto drawer assembly, this works with pretty much the same process as putting on the handle, also remember to remove the handle before you place the drawer onto the front, also be sure to lay the felt in before you assemble the drawer fully

Step 9: Slider Bars

Used Drywall screws for installing the slider bars for drawers, for the rest of the project ive been using an assortment of nails, the board was too thick so I got the biggest drill bit in my set and went through halfway, all the spaces are 2 1/2" apart between the bars bars are cut to 11 1/2" in length and 1" on the side going in and 3/4" for other side. Now this step can be tedious, Be sure to get the screws in up to the precut hole before installing, and be sure your screw can go in far enough to hold in the bar and withstand the weight of the drawer but not too long to come out the other side, i started with making a mark on the right, putting the drawer through the slot and making a mark on the left side so that the drawer would come up even. this might require a small drill or handheld screwdriver due to the tight space, The tightening of a few of these screws might be tough, but remind yourself how much your significant other will love it and youll pull through, with forearms like Popeye, with or without the anchor tattoos.

Step 10: Finishing Table and Finished

Finished up the table with some stain and a handle I found lying around the garage, put up the trim and Voila, Fin, Finished, Wife loved it, great fun project and great gift
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