Introduction: Kerf Dado Setting Jig Made From a T-track Left Over
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About: Design Communications, Graphic, Web & 3D CAD Designer, Woodworker
This is a Jig for woodworkers who cut dados with a TS, RAS, SCMS and MS
Most of us who are into woodworking have seen this nice Kerf setting tool in the market and also we have all noticed its ridiculously high price.
In reality it is a very useful jig for cutting accurate dados without measuring, but for that price...!!!
- Get your hands out of my pocket -
I have seen many fellow woodworkers that have made a homemade accurate replicas out of wood of this fine woodworking tool, and I have also seen some really nice adaptations too.
But on the other hand it is just a setting jig; if it works correct then looks are not that important.
So, the other day I was looking into some drawers and I found a cut-off piece of t-track that I used on my router table. We all use them and most times we cut them to size to fit our dimension, as they are sold in specific lengths. So I was thinking why did I save that small 20cm long piece?
And the same night as I was browsing along the woodworking sites I saw this Kerf and it hit me what could I do with that left over piece of T-Track.
So I sat down and CAD a design of a Kerf Setting Jig using a piece of T-Track and some pieces of wood. Here is how I used that “useless” left over piece of T-track to build the Kerf Setting Jig.
Note: In case you are NOT familiar with what this Jig can do or you don’t know how to use and set it up, please watch this VIDEO.
Most of us who are into woodworking have seen this nice Kerf setting tool in the market and also we have all noticed its ridiculously high price.
In reality it is a very useful jig for cutting accurate dados without measuring, but for that price...!!!
- Get your hands out of my pocket -
I have seen many fellow woodworkers that have made a homemade accurate replicas out of wood of this fine woodworking tool, and I have also seen some really nice adaptations too.
But on the other hand it is just a setting jig; if it works correct then looks are not that important.
So, the other day I was looking into some drawers and I found a cut-off piece of t-track that I used on my router table. We all use them and most times we cut them to size to fit our dimension, as they are sold in specific lengths. So I was thinking why did I save that small 20cm long piece?
And the same night as I was browsing along the woodworking sites I saw this Kerf and it hit me what could I do with that left over piece of T-Track.
So I sat down and CAD a design of a Kerf Setting Jig using a piece of T-Track and some pieces of wood. Here is how I used that “useless” left over piece of T-track to build the Kerf Setting Jig.
Note: In case you are NOT familiar with what this Jig can do or you don’t know how to use and set it up, please watch this VIDEO.
Step 1: Materials List:
2 pieces of T-track
Scrub wood
1 flange bolt with washer and wing-nut
1 bolt with washer and wing-nut
That is all.
Scrub wood
1 flange bolt with washer and wing-nut
1 bolt with washer and wing-nut
That is all.
Step 2: Putting the Jig Together
The left over T-Track I had was a 3/4 track so.
Use you hacksaw to cut two small pieces of T-track.
One piece 100mm long (4”)
Second piece 65mm long (3.5”)
On the 65mm t-track I made a 40mm opening on the one side using my drill press to accommodate the bolt section.
In the other site I drill a hole 10mm from the edge to accept the flange bolt. The same hole you will have to drill on the center wood piece and runners of the flange bolt section.
You may need to cut the bolts if they are two long.
Cut a few pieces of 6mm (1/4”) and 19mm (3/4”) wood and assembly the jig as you see in my SketchUp CAD drawing
Wood Sizes:
Front Piece: 19x16x12mm
Center Piece: 19x21x6mm
Center Piece Runners: Two 6.5x21x4mm (or according to your T-Track opening) glued over under.
Main Rear Piece: 19x55x6mm. There is a 6mm hole drilled 10mm from the inside end of the wood and a recess on the other site for the bolts head.
Rear Piece Runner: 6.5x40x3mm glued face to the outer edge.
Rear Piece Head: 19x12x10mm glued over the main rear piece to the outer edge
To glue the front piece on the aluminum track you can use some epoxy and couple of thin screws if you like.
Use you hacksaw to cut two small pieces of T-track.
One piece 100mm long (4”)
Second piece 65mm long (3.5”)
On the 65mm t-track I made a 40mm opening on the one side using my drill press to accommodate the bolt section.
In the other site I drill a hole 10mm from the edge to accept the flange bolt. The same hole you will have to drill on the center wood piece and runners of the flange bolt section.
You may need to cut the bolts if they are two long.
Cut a few pieces of 6mm (1/4”) and 19mm (3/4”) wood and assembly the jig as you see in my SketchUp CAD drawing
Wood Sizes:
Front Piece: 19x16x12mm
Center Piece: 19x21x6mm
Center Piece Runners: Two 6.5x21x4mm (or according to your T-Track opening) glued over under.
Main Rear Piece: 19x55x6mm. There is a 6mm hole drilled 10mm from the inside end of the wood and a recess on the other site for the bolts head.
Rear Piece Runner: 6.5x40x3mm glued face to the outer edge.
Rear Piece Head: 19x12x10mm glued over the main rear piece to the outer edge
To glue the front piece on the aluminum track you can use some epoxy and couple of thin screws if you like.
Step 3: What Did This Cost Me?
I have no idea what is the price of 2 bolts with wing nuts.
