*************************************NOTICE******************************************
Dear Instructables members, this is NOT the current version of the rifle. The most recent ible is found in the link below. PLEASE DO NOT BUILD THIS, IT WILL RUIN YOUR PIECES AND CUT YOUR CHEEK!

https://www.instructables.com/id/SR70A1-PSRS/

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Extremely Accurate
Powerful
Very Light
Best Looking Sniper Rifle You Will Ever Find.

This is a great build for experienced builders. This gun is sort of hard to make, requiring screwdrivers (or some metal rod) for wedging in and out pieces. This gun can break pieces when being fired (EDIT: SR70A1 will have a better transfer system, more accurate and powerful!), for it uses the hammer mechanism of the K'nexecutioner 2.01 "Cyclone". Scope and barrel can be calibrated for maximum accuracy. Also, cheek pad can be customized, because the hammer can bounce up and hit your face.

I found that magazines have a tendency to jam up, and they would weaken up the gun overall. As a result, this is a barrel-loaded, simple pullback hammer.

If anyone manages to modify and publish another Instructable from this gun, just drop my name in it somewhere.

This instructable is, unless noted, symmetrical. You do something to one side, you will be expected to do the same thing to the other side. A table of rod and connector color will be shown for your convenience. Good luck.

Rod and Connector Table
Green rod = Black rod
White rod = Shiny gray rod
Blue rod = Shiny blue rod
Yellow rod = Dark gray dotted rod
Red rod = Shiny green rod
Gray rod = Gray rod

Gray connector = Gray connector
Tannish white connector = White dotted connector
Red connector = Dark gray dotted connector
Green connector = Shiny green connector
Yellow connector = Extremely light gray connector
Blue connector = Shiny blue connector
Purple connector = Shiny gray connector
White connector = Black connector
Tan connector = Dark tan connector

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EDIT: This gun is under development, I'm trying to make it break less and be stronger. The transfer rods will be gray, so they don't break. Expect SR70A1 to be out some time in May, maybe April.

Progress on SR70A1:
3-24-10
New scope, basic design credits go to James_Lawrence. Check his M82 Barrett out, looks awesome.
Stock bracing strengthened, pictures and Instructable will be up by March 27.

3-23-10
Finished, final refinements. Up around start of April.

3-18-10
New barrel finished. It uses the same frame, scope, hammer, and barrel (at least up to where it leaves the frame). About 4x powerful, accurate, and 3x the range. No need for break band. 3 rubber bands saved. Barrel : About 2ft long. New bipod system and bipod folding system.
Need to stiffen up barrel.

Step 1: The Barrel, Part 1

The hardest part. It's so long that it's divided into 2 parts. Follow every step exactly or pieces will be flying.

Rod and Connector Table
Green rod = Black rod
White rod = Shiny gray rod
Blue rod = Shiny blue rod
Yellow rod = Dark gray dotted rod
Red rod = Shiny green rod
Gray rod = Gray rod

Gray connector = Gray connector
Tannish white connector = White dotted connector
Red connector = Dark gray dotted connector
Green connector = Shiny green connector
Yellow connector = Extremely light gray connector
Blue connector = Shiny blue connector
Purple connector = Shiny gray connector
White connector = Black connector
Tan connector = Dark tan connector

Step 2: The Barrel, Part 2

The hardest part, the second half. It's almost over.

Rod and Connector Table
Green rod = Black rod
White rod = Shiny gray rod
Blue rod = Shiny blue rod
Yellow rod = Dark gray dotted rod
Red rod = Shiny green rod
Gray rod = Gray rod

Gray connector = Gray connector
Tannish white connector = White dotted connector
Red connector = Dark gray dotted connector
Green connector = Shiny green connector
Yellow connector = Extremely light gray connector
Blue connector = Shiny blue connector
Purple connector = Shiny gray connector
White connector = Black connector
Tan connector = Dark tan connector

Step 3: Body, Trigger, Grip, Butt, and Hammer

The hard parts are done. These are relatively easy to do, and it all ends up in one piece.

Rod and Connector Table
Green rod = Black rod
White rod = Shiny gray rod
Blue rod = Shiny blue rod
Yellow rod = Dark gray dotted rod
Red rod = Shiny green rod
Gray rod = Gray rod

Gray connector = Gray connector
Tannish white connector = White dotted connector
Red connector = Dark gray dotted connector
Green connector = Shiny green connector
Yellow connector = Extremely light gray connector
Blue connector = Shiny blue connector
Purple connector = Shiny gray connector
White connector = Black connector
Tan connector = Dark tan connector

Step 4: Scope, and Final Assembly

Yay! The second hardest part, as well as second-to-last step.

Rod and Connector Table
Green rod = Black rod
White rod = Shiny gray rod
Blue rod = Shiny blue rod
Yellow rod = Dark gray dotted rod
Red rod = Shiny green rod
Gray rod = Gray rod

Gray connector = Gray connector
Tannish white connector = White dotted connector
Red connector = Dark gray dotted connector
Green connector = Shiny green connector
Yellow connector = Extremely light gray connector
Blue connector = Shiny blue connector
Purple connector = Shiny gray connector
White connector = Black connector
Tan connector = Dark tan connector

Step 5: Banding.

The thing that makes this gun work. Size 32 rubber bands.

Step 6: The Gun Should Look Like...

...this.
It fires any rod. The green rod needs multiple rods and doesn't shoot far. The white rod doesn't shoot far, either. The blue rod is decent. All 3 rods need to be pushed in by a second rod.

However, the yellow rod should slide in like a perfect match, without needing a second rod. The gun is very accurate with this rod. The red rod should stick out of the barrel, not as accurate as the yellow, but more powerful. The gray rod is the most powerful, and has the accuracy of the blue rod. You will tend to use the yellow and the gray rod the most.

To zero in, change the tension of the bands going over the scope and/or push and bend the barrel until it's on the center of the scope.

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18 Comments

Knextremely stupid

8 years ago

Theres too much going on with it it could be kind of like my sniper rifle just smooth

snoet

11 years ago on Introduction

yes...
i saw it after a while xD.
i've build the other one.
i changed the barrel a bit, because i did not have enough pices...
but it still doesn't work...
it shoots only three meters...
so could you help me with that please?

snoet

11 years ago on Introduction

i'm making the gun right now,
but i don't get the 5th immage...
how do i put the rubbers on?

The Awsome J

12 years ago on Introduction

Kwl

mberg

12 years ago on Introduction

i built it and it works great! the only thing is that the cheek pad, for some reason it was acting stupid. also the fourth ram rod(the front yellow one) came out of place 2 times. other than that the guns great!

zakplayyy

12 years ago on Introduction

How would you wedge the rods in with a screwdriver?

prodo123

12 years ago on Introduction

Alright, the gun is FINISHED! A sneak-peek is to be uploaded real soon. The instructable will take longer, but SR70A1's improvements are :

Longer Barrel
Longer and Fewer Transfer Rods
WAY better scope
Better faceguard
sturdier stock
better trigger
Adjustable Butt
3 Rubber Bands ONLY!
better triggerguard
Better bipod support
Railings for Accessories
GUARANTEED! NO JAMMING WHATSOEVER.

Stronger, More Accurate, and More Comfortable! Looks even better, too.