Introduction: Knife Grinding Jig
I was recently looking for a knife grinding jig so that I didn't have to free hand it if I didn't want to but they were all in the $70 to $150 range and there was no way I was going to pay that when I knew I could make one myself. I then started searching for DIY options and came across this: Adjustable Angle Knife Grinding Jig. I liked how it used a spring hinge which made this simpler and more cost effective. I have access to a decent amount of scrap steel so I modified the design to be more solid and include a couple additional features.
Step 1: Materials
Below is a list of materials and tools that I used to make this. This could be easily modified depending on what you have available.
Materials:
- Adjustable Spring Door Hinge (I used the largest 4.5 inch size for stability and strength but smaller sizes should also work)
- Bolt (Must be fully threaded and recommended to be at least 4.5 inches long. I used a 5 inch long 5/16 bolt.)
- Cap Nut/Acorn Nut that fits your bolt
- Steel Plate (I used a 7.5 x 3 inch and 6 x 2 inch piece of 1/4 inch thick steel. I originally used a 6 x 3 inch plate for the front plate but changed it to a 2 inch wide plate later)
- Steel Block (Around 4 x 1.5 x 0.75 inches)
- Plastic sheet to reduce friction on the bottom (must be the size of the bottom plate, 7.5 x 3 inches)
- Assortment of bolts (These can vary depending on what you have available. Future steps will highlight what bolts I used)
Tools:
- Angle grinder or hack saw
- Saw to cut Plexiglas
- Drill press and drill bits
- Tab and die set
- Sander/grinder/file to clean up edges
- (optional) 3D printer for knob
Step 2: Attach the Hinge
The hinge needs to be attached to both plates. I used the hinge as a template for where to drill the holes and then drilled and tapped the holes to accommodate the bolts that came with the hinge. There should be a little gap so that the plates do not rub against the round part of the hinge when it rotates.
Step 3: Bolt Post
To be able to adjust the angle, a bolt is used that pushes against the hinge. I used a small chunk of steel, not sure the exact dimensions but probably close to 4 x 1.5 x 0.75 inches, that I bolted down to the base plate and threaded a through hole to allow the bolt to thread into. I set the block at the back of the hinge so that I would have a large angle I could adjust to in either direction. You will need a bolt, preferably two, to be able to attach the post to the plate. I used two 1 inch long 1/4 inch bolts.
Step 4: Reducing Friction
I have seen other designs use a plastic plate on the bottom and I though it was probably there to reduce friction but I wanted to look up the friction amounts myself just to double check. For those who are curious, the following are the coefficients of friction for steel on these various materials: Hint, lower is better.
- Steel on Steel: 0.7
- Polycarbonate (Lexan) on Steel: 0.45
- Acrylic (Plexiglas) on Steel: 0.2
- Nylon on Steel: 0.1
As you can see, adding any of the above plastics on the bottom will allow it to slide easier. I only had a scrap piece of Lexan that was large enough but it still reduces the friction some. This layer also provides clearance for the bolts that hold on the bolt post.
I used the bottom plate as a template to drill clearance holes for the bolts for the hinge and the bolt post. I ended up switching from hex head bolts to button bolts for the bolt post because there was not enough clearance to turn them with the Lexan plate on. You could of course just put on the bolts and then the Lexan if you didn't want to switch.
I then drilled a hole in each corner and countersunk it so that I could use a small flat head bolt to attach the Lexan to the bottom plate.
Step 5: Getting It Ready
Now that it was mostly complete it was time to tighten the hinge and start cleaning it up.
To set the hinge, you need to use an hex key wrench to twist the side of the hinge and then insert the small pin when you have twisted as much as possible. The tighter the better.
Because I used the bolts that came with the hinge, the bolt end stuck out of the front of the plate. I just adjusted the front plate to be parallel with my grinder and sanded them down to be flush with the plate.
Step 6: Adjustable Angles
Because the bolt post is pretty far back and I used a long bolt, I have a large degree of adjustment. I can pretty much go 45 degrees in either direction of vertical.
Step 7: Smaller Front Plate
As I stated before, I didn't like how big the 3 inch tall front plate was so I replaced it with a 2 inch tall plate. If I were to lower my tool rest on my grinder then the 3 inch would work. Depending on your need, any sized front plate would work.
Step 8: Test It Out
If you want, this is as far as you need to go to have a functional grinding jig. I made some more additions that I will show in the next steps
But, I wanted to test out the jig at this point to just see how well it worked. I just did a quick grind and was really happy with how much faster it was to get a good even grind.
Step 9: Addition 1 (Set Screw)
During my test grind, I found that it was easy to accidentally adjust the angle when grinding. I originally wanted to put in a set screw but held off because I wasn't sure it needed it but after the test grind I think it would be very helpful. Definitely recommend adding this.
Step 10: Addition 2 (Knob for Bolt)
It was difficult to adjust the bolt by just turning the end of it so I decided to 3D print a simple knob that I glued to the bolt to make it easier to turn the bolt. If you don't have a 3D printer then you can just use a wrench , socket set or buy a knob like This One to turn it. I have included the Tinkercad link to the knob I made for my 5/16 bolt below.
Step 11: Complete
This is as far as I have taken this design at this time. If you are interested, below are some ideas of potential additions.
- Put a grid of threaded holes on the front plate so I can use bolts to hold knives in place,
- Add knob or handles to the back of the bottom plate to give you better handles to move it around.
If you have any recommendations on improvements or additions please let me know in the comments.

Runner Up in the
Build a Tool Contest
34 Comments
1 year ago on Introduction
I made it with L angle and did cutouts for the bulk of the hinge. Can't seem to add an image.
Tip 3 years ago
Like it but I will lengthen the mounting plate so the rivet holes can be used to mount the knife.(both ends) I will also add a spring on each side to pull the plate against the adjustment bolt to prevent it from falling forward. very nice work by the way! slots would allow different knife rivet holes spacing to work.
Reply 3 years ago
Thank you. I originally had a larger mounting plate but I messed it up so I used the smaller one I was also making for it. The mounting plate size can definitely be adjusted to your needs and you could easily swap them out. I don't know if you missed it but if you use a spring door hinge then there is a spring integrated into the hinge with plenty of force to keep the plate against the adjustment bolt. If you want to use a regular hinge then you will definitely need a spring.
3 years ago on Introduction
Would this work on a hatchet for a scandi grind or would a larger face plate be required? Have you tried it on an a carving axe?
Best Answer 3 years ago
I have not tried this on an axe to be positive but I would imagine using a larger face plate or making a fixture to attach to the smaller plate would definitely make it easier. But I think it is possible as long as you can attach it securely.
3 years ago
Hi, love the pattern, want to make one my self, how do yuo attach the acorn nut to the back of the door hinge? As adjusting the angle the acorn nut need to change position.
Reply 3 years ago
It is not attached. By using a spring hinge, it pushes against the acorn nut. That is why a spring hinge is required. A regular hinge would require it to be attached.
3 years ago
Excellent job
3 years ago
what was the total cost of all supplies, and what do you think about substituting those screws, (Just the ones that can be substituted) for welds? I like the fat taper this jig puts on the material, but sometimes I use a smaller file for my material, which would require a thinner taper... Will this work for something like this?
Best Answer 3 years ago
I can't give you a very good cost estimate because I only needed to buy the hinge and bolts/screws. I only spent $20 but with the material, it could probably double or tipple that. Welding is definitely an option, I just don't have a welder yet. Because this jig allows you to adjust the angle, you can put as small or large of a taper as you want.
4 years ago
Awesome jig!
Reply 4 years ago
Thank you. It's been really handy for grinding all sorts of things when it needs to be at a specific angle.
4 years ago on Step 11
I would put a nut on each side of your long bolt to lock the angle you set. I would think the set screw would mess up the threads after a short time. The 2 nuts would keep it much more stable.
The rest of the design seems perfect! Great work!
Reply 4 years ago
Because the set screw only needs to be tight enough to stop the bolt from moving, it didn't appear to mess up the threads in my testing but there is that possibility. I like the ease of the set screw over having to mess with two nuts every time I want to adjust it. I may just have to replace that screw every so often. But if you would rather, using two nuts is definitely a great option.
Reply 4 years ago
I have two ideas here: 1. Use a wingnut for one of the nuts maybe with a split washer. Then you only have to tighten finger tight. 2. Use a small bit of brass rod the diameter of your set screw hole. Make the brass rod length twice the diameter of the hole to keep it from turning around in the hole.
Reply 4 years ago
I like the brass rod idea. I think I have some brass rod that I can use between the set screw and bolt. I'll try it out and update this if it works well.
Reply 4 years ago
I was thinking the same thing about how the set screw would slowly ding up the threads on the adjusting bolt - and thought using extra nuts, as you suggest, would solve the problem!
4 years ago
Very Cool and a great tutorial . Got my vote
Reply 4 years ago
Thank you. I'm glad you liked it.
4 years ago
to reduce the thread turning easily, simply drill a cross hole to make whipper snipper cord (strimmer line) and insert a length in so it rubs on the side of the thread - if needed you can then put a smaller screew/ bolt in to increased the force of the strimmer line against the thread to further reduce moevemnt, but without marking up your thread.