Introduction: Knockdown Outdoor Rabbit Tractor

Without a bottom in this cage, leaving the rabbit out at night is a bit iffy. You have been warned.

The angular cuts were made with a compound miter saw, set to make 60 degree cuts.

Step 1: The Ends Are Equilateral Triangles, 60 Degree Cuts, Made From 1x2s.

Each side of the equilateral triangles is as long as the width of a roll of chicken wire, which comes in 2' and 3' widths. I used a 3' wide roll.

Step 2: Added Triangular Pieces of 1x4s for Additional Bracing.

Step 3: The Rest of the Frame Is Two Rectangles, Hinged at the Top.

The horizontal pieces of the rectangles are 1x2's. The uprights are 1x4's, salvaged from pallets.

Having the two rectangles hinged together makes this cage easy to transport when knocked down. I used 3 hinges, equally spaced, to hinge the rectangles, and two hinges for the hatch. The two hinged rectangles are connected to the equilateral triangles by 6 bolts, 6 wing nuts and 12 washers, all stainless steel.

Step 4: Added a Hatch.

Added a hatch to add and remove the bunny. He comes in at night, for safety from predators.

The horizontal piece to which the hatch is attached (also salvaged from a pallet) is joined to the rest of the frame using pocket hole screws and glue (not shown), the holes made with a Kreg-type pocket hole jig.

The handle for the hatch does double duty as a stop to keep the hatch in the correct position. I added two latches, one on either side of the handle. One would probably suffice.

The chicken wire is affixed to the frame using nail-in staples (I don't have a staple gun).

Be careful with the cut ends of the chicken wire - tuck them out of the way so no one gets injured handling the cage.

Step 5: Romeo's Cage (RIP, My Little Rabbit Brother) Went to a Good Home!

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