Kuksa Carving (for Lazy Carvers)
Intro: Kuksa Carving (for Lazy Carvers)
Wazza kuksa?!
A kuksa is the traditional wooden cup made & used by the Sami people in Lappland - northern Scandinavia. Traditionally they are made of birch burls - kind of halfround three growths you'll find on a number of species but particularly on birch.
Those burls ('broussin' in French) grow as a reaction on a stress - can be an injury, a virus or a fungus - compare it to a tumor as you want. The wood in those burls has no traditional growth rings and is very dense.
Kuksa's are beautiful pieces of art. Not one kuksa is the same bacause the shape of a kuksa depends on the shape of the burl.
For years I planned making one my own, but until a few weeks ago I didn't got the chance to find the right burl.
Until a few weeks ago, so.
I found a lovely burl on a dead olive three, making me the luckiest person on earth - at that moment.
So I started carving.
Kuksa carving is basic craftwork. All you need is a saw to cut the burl, a hatchet to rawshape, a knife (traditionally a 'puukko' or a special 'crooked knife') to dig it out and some sandpaper to fineshape. Basic craftwork, everyone can do it.
But, I forgot one other thing you need: PATIENCE.
I've got a wife to love, a crazy dog, some even more crazier cats, unconventional parents, some great friends, a good health, a mind filled with crazy plans and two hands to realize them. I've got it all.
But I've got no patience.
So instead of making a kuksa with a knife I made some shortcuts - as always.
Sorry to all those who claim that a kuksa shouldn't be made with power tools. This I'ble is no propaganda for the use of electric power, it's just the way bricobart did it. Free to decide.
A kuksa is the traditional wooden cup made & used by the Sami people in Lappland - northern Scandinavia. Traditionally they are made of birch burls - kind of halfround three growths you'll find on a number of species but particularly on birch.
Those burls ('broussin' in French) grow as a reaction on a stress - can be an injury, a virus or a fungus - compare it to a tumor as you want. The wood in those burls has no traditional growth rings and is very dense.
Kuksa's are beautiful pieces of art. Not one kuksa is the same bacause the shape of a kuksa depends on the shape of the burl.
For years I planned making one my own, but until a few weeks ago I didn't got the chance to find the right burl.
Until a few weeks ago, so.
I found a lovely burl on a dead olive three, making me the luckiest person on earth - at that moment.
So I started carving.
Kuksa carving is basic craftwork. All you need is a saw to cut the burl, a hatchet to rawshape, a knife (traditionally a 'puukko' or a special 'crooked knife') to dig it out and some sandpaper to fineshape. Basic craftwork, everyone can do it.
But, I forgot one other thing you need: PATIENCE.
I've got a wife to love, a crazy dog, some even more crazier cats, unconventional parents, some great friends, a good health, a mind filled with crazy plans and two hands to realize them. I've got it all.
But I've got no patience.
So instead of making a kuksa with a knife I made some shortcuts - as always.
Sorry to all those who claim that a kuksa shouldn't be made with power tools. This I'ble is no propaganda for the use of electric power, it's just the way bricobart did it. Free to decide.
STEP 1: Harvesting the Burl
The hardest thing in kuksa carving is finding the burl. Or better: finding the RIGHT burl.
In northern countries this might be quite an easy job. Burls are very common on birch, for example.
If you're spending a lot of time in southern spots the task becomes a bit more complicated, and almost impossible if you're looking for THAT species in particular like me.
I wanted to make my first kuksa in olive. Hundreds of trees I inspected before - after three years (!) - finding my luck on a dead olive tree in the outback of south France.
The first pictures are from the dead tree and so the one who served to make this kuksa, the second series are from a truly alive 'n very kicking tree where I could harvest two beautiful burls. In full city center, no kidding!!!
When you're cutting off a burl from a tree that's still alive, make sure to harvest it properly. Use a handsaw, make a proper cut and put a lot of woundcare (pine tar is perfect) on the wound. The wound will heal, and the tree will live as before.
NOTES:
NOTE: If you're working with a 'fresh' burl, don't forget to store it in a plastic bag every time you take a break, just to avoid splitting, again.
In northern countries this might be quite an easy job. Burls are very common on birch, for example.
If you're spending a lot of time in southern spots the task becomes a bit more complicated, and almost impossible if you're looking for THAT species in particular like me.
I wanted to make my first kuksa in olive. Hundreds of trees I inspected before - after three years (!) - finding my luck on a dead olive tree in the outback of south France.
The first pictures are from the dead tree and so the one who served to make this kuksa, the second series are from a truly alive 'n very kicking tree where I could harvest two beautiful burls. In full city center, no kidding!!!
When you're cutting off a burl from a tree that's still alive, make sure to harvest it properly. Use a handsaw, make a proper cut and put a lot of woundcare (pine tar is perfect) on the wound. The wound will heal, and the tree will live as before.
NOTES:
- DON'T FORGET TO CUT THE BASE OF THE BURL, this part will serve as handle!!!
- TRY TO HARVEST IN SUMMER OR AUTUMN! During wintertime the sapstream slows down and the wound will heal a lot slower - opening the door to infections. In summer & autumn the tree is at full power and with the help of the pine tar the wound will heal quickly.
NOTE: If you're working with a 'fresh' burl, don't forget to store it in a plastic bag every time you take a break, just to avoid splitting, again.
STEP 2: Raw Outer Shaping
I used an angle shaper with big grain (40 to 60) to rawshape the burl. Be careful, the disc makes no difference between wood & meat.
Give it the shape you want, carefully looking to the opportunites the burl is giving you.
Traditionnal kuksa carving is in fresh wood. The fresher the wood the easier it's shapeble.
Give it the shape you want, carefully looking to the opportunites the burl is giving you.
Traditionnal kuksa carving is in fresh wood. The fresher the wood the easier it's shapeble.
STEP 3: Digging It Out
Having no patience to dig it out with a chisel or a knife, I decided to give it a try with a router.
Routering was fine, but didn't give the smooth rounded inner cupshape I wanted.
So I made my own tool: THE LAZY CARVER (see my next I'ble).
Lazy Carver did a great job. Fixed to a column drill and turning at high speed it took only 10 minutes to carve an almost perfect bowl.
NOTE: BE CAREFUL WITH THIS TOY. NO NEED TO TELL TO HOLD THE KUKSA WITH BOTH HANDS, WEARING GLOVES ETC. IT'S A MONSTER!!!
Routering was fine, but didn't give the smooth rounded inner cupshape I wanted.
So I made my own tool: THE LAZY CARVER (see my next I'ble).
Lazy Carver did a great job. Fixed to a column drill and turning at high speed it took only 10 minutes to carve an almost perfect bowl.
NOTE: BE CAREFUL WITH THIS TOY. NO NEED TO TELL TO HOLD THE KUKSA WITH BOTH HANDS, WEARING GLOVES ETC. IT'S A MONSTER!!!
STEP 4: Finer Shaping
Use grain 80 to 120 to give it 80% of it's shape.
Scratch.
Scratch.
Scratch.
...
Scratch.
Scratch.
Scratch.
...
STEP 5: Boiling
When the rawsanding is done the protokuksa is boiled in very very salted water for an hour or so. This will evacuate the tanines (bad taste) and will densify the wood.
Rinse with clear water & let dry.
Rinse with clear water & let dry.
STEP 6: Finest Shaping
Only 20% to go!
Starting with grain 80 & gowing from 120, 180, 240, 320, 400 to 600 & 800.
Even if it's called 'lazy carving' you'll spend hours & hours in this step...
Starting with grain 80 & gowing from 120, 180, 240, 320, 400 to 600 & 800.
Even if it's called 'lazy carving' you'll spend hours & hours in this step...
STEP 7: Oiling
The easiest part: fill your kuksa with vegetal oil (lineseed or olive - guess what I used) and 'massage' it strongly.
Wipe the excess, let it penetrate and start it all over again a few times.
After the oiling your kuksa will be ready, finally!!!
Ready to be used! It will be a great companion on all your adventures and serve you as long as you live.
Treat it with respect, it's so much more than just a cup...
Hope you loved this I'ble - I spent a great time carving ;-)
Wipe the excess, let it penetrate and start it all over again a few times.
After the oiling your kuksa will be ready, finally!!!
Ready to be used! It will be a great companion on all your adventures and serve you as long as you live.
Treat it with respect, it's so much more than just a cup...
Hope you loved this I'ble - I spent a great time carving ;-)
106 Comments
PeterP309 4 years ago
bartworker 4 years ago
alai5 7 years ago
Is it ok to use sunflower oil?
nancyjohns 10 years ago
bartworker 10 years ago
nancyjohns 9 years ago
*Dialing 911* Ummmm........ Okay...........
Corinbw 9 years ago
Wow that turned out amazing. I made one a while ago and it does not look as great as that. i am inspired. :)
bartworker 9 years ago
Not so great? Are you kidding? Yours is just awesome mate, you did have the eye to see a cup in that chunk of wood!
michaelgc 9 years ago
Wow that kukusa looks amazing, Now will you use this or just have it as decoration? Maybe I should keep my eye out for dead trees, but I don't many here is the suburbs of Los Angeles.
bartworker 9 years ago
A kuksa gets character by using it again and again, so we're using it! Thanx for the comment and I hope you found something!
Ray from RI 9 years ago
So what is your lazy carver tool...????
Mattrox 10 years ago
So beautiful! Thanks for sharing!
nancyjohns 10 years ago
That kukusa looks GREAT. I'm really into woodworking and my dad dose tree work and he just cut one down with a burl. He cut the burl off so I'll try to talk him into me keeping it........
jesse4015 10 years ago
bartworker 10 years ago
Victor805 10 years ago
Thanks.
bartworker 10 years ago
AMDHamm 10 years ago
Get permission to cut the burls if it is not on your property. It is illegal otherwise to remove them. Be certain to seal an above ground wounds with end grain sealer or, if below ground, cover the wound with dirt. Since burls are the result of a wound to a tree, most likely another burl will grow where one has been removed. Keep the tree alive and it may continue to reward us for generations.
Tazmjm69 10 years ago
Jobar007 10 years ago