Jobar007

I've certainly enjoyed @Random_Canadian and his 'ibles. Keep on making!

I found out about shrimping around 3 years ago. It seems like it would be so much fun. I'm glad to see some people bringing ideas to the table to help make it more enjoyable. I really like your idea and design. The hands free counting of the shrimp is a good touch. My only suggestion would be a water proof container for your next version of the Shrimping Helper.

I've been waiting for this 'ible since you first mentioned it, my friend. I'm very glad to see that your enthusiasm hasn't waned. Something I really liked was the progression of your hair in the pictures. It really helped to convey a passing of time.

Thanks!

How much does that piece weigh? Can you wear it a whole day without it being too much weight?

Listen! You beat me to the joke in your 'ible. Hey! Great idea and well executed.

Why Air Dry clay and not a polymer clay? It seems like if your epoxy coat chips, your lure will soften and break up on the inside of the shell.

None of your pictures show a crashpad or similar device to help make unexpected falls safer. It feels a bit like, "Do what I say, not what I do." I'd recommend that the pictures with the little girl in them show some kind of safety. I know that she is only 3' up. Onto a hard floor without much give, that will feel higher and can result in serious injury. I seriously brused my coccyx in High School when someone thought it would be funny to pull my seat out from under me as I was sitting. I couldn't sit without a special pillow for 5 days afterwards. As a boulderer in my free time, I feel like people don't treat the safety aspect seriously.

When working with leather this thick, using a drill press with a very fine drill is the way to go. Much easier to get consistent holes that don't deform the leather. Just make sure you use a marking gauge to get them evenly spaced. A tip for the saddle stitch: make your holes slightly bigger than you normally would. Instead of back stitching, you run two threads and tie a square knot inside of the hole. This is super strong and prevents unraveling if a stitch is ever cut or broken.

How much did your overall build end up costing?

Clever, simple solution to a complex idea. Well done!

Epoxy isn't terribly heat resistant. If you are going to be putting hot food directly down on the table, you'll need another finish. Water based poly isn't too much better. Nearly all film finishes don't have much heat resistance. To be honest, I'm not sure what would be a good finish for the table without some research.

As I said in a comment to Alex French Guy Cooking, epoxy softens considerably with heat. Do not use this technique if you plan on eating hot soup or ramen out of a bowl repaired using this technique. You'll probably be fine a few times, but the bond will critically fail, probably when full of near boiling liquid. In this application, on the other hand, epoxy is a great substitute for the labor intensive lacquer Kintsugi.

You should take your injections a step further and put an imprint of the type of plastic on the mold, so you know what it is when you want to recycle it later down the road (or someone else finds it and wants to recycle it). Great idea. I'd love to see an instructable about the plastic injector.

Sounds great. You didn't list any reason behind the length in the 'ible, hence the question.

Why 10' and not 8'? You increased your cost by close to 70% by having it go the extra two feet.

Don't forget Des and Troy! I agree that Karl Urban did a great job with that role. He brought levity when required but also added a depth and gravity.

To me, it looks like he pushed it into a wave.

How thick is the plywood that you used? I can't seem to find where you mentioned it in your 'ible.

How thick is the plywood that you used? I can't seem to find where you mentioned it in your 'ible.

Use a real skin-on-frame coating like Corey's 2 Part Urethane coating system. You can find it at Spirit Line's Skin Boat Store. Yes, it's expensive, but it is worth it.It isn't the light weight of the craft that is slowing the glide, it's the hull form. Your gunnels have a relatively sharp turn instead of being more gradual. This impedes water flow and slows the boat. You want fair lines in a hull to help it glide. The reason that I'm suggesting this is that there are a lot of super light weight skin-on-frame kayaks and canoes that keep up with much heavier hulled boats. It's the shape of the hull that matters more than the weight. Your wood choices should be more in line with traditional skin boat woods: Western Red Cedar (WRC) for longitudinal members and a bending hardwood for the ri...

Use a real skin-on-frame coating like Corey's 2 Part Urethane coating system. You can find it at Spirit Line's Skin Boat Store. Yes, it's expensive, but it is worth it.It isn't the light weight of the craft that is slowing the glide, it's the hull form. Your gunnels have a relatively sharp turn instead of being more gradual. This impedes water flow and slows the boat. You want fair lines in a hull to help it glide. The reason that I'm suggesting this is that there are a lot of super light weight skin-on-frame kayaks and canoes that keep up with much heavier hulled boats. It's the shape of the hull that matters more than the weight. Your wood choices should be more in line with traditional skin boat woods: Western Red Cedar (WRC) for longitudinal members and a bending hardwood for the ribs. They create a lightweight boat that is also stiff enough to be a more efficient hull. Maple and Red Oak are not durable woods. Pine is moderately durable. WRC is very durable. Yes, WRC is more expensive than pine, but the superiority of the wood for this purpose will make you wish you had used it in the first place.

What thickness of plywood did you use here?

A lot of these tips create a deep clean on a tank and completely reset the nitrogen cycle. Please, for the love of your fish, research the nitrogen cycle in an aquarium. Never fully replace your filter media at one time because it resets the cycle as well.IMHO, the reason you had problems with green water is due to overstocking. Goldfish are extreme waste producers. In your tank (looks like a 15 gallon), I'd recommend no goldfish (due to waste) and just a few, smaller fish in there, like guppies.

I'm curious as to the longevity of the bag in repeated use. When you take this diving, please report back. Also, if there was some sort of display (LCD, LED array, etc.) that could give real time feedback to the user, that'd be really helpful.

I switched to hard weights after seeing a milky white stream coming out of a soft weight one time. Lead will oxidize and since the lead shot moves around, it easily knocks off any oxides that form on the surface of the individual pellets.

Something tells me that the bushing/seal around the shaft of the motor isn't waterproof. How long have you had this motor running?

That makes sense. We, as a western society, are seeking to have less mud around.

Neither Castor Oil, nor Avocado Oil polymerize. This will stay in a liquid state it's entire life. Both oils also go rancid, so if you are using this in food contact (or in a toddler's house), it can make people sick. The only thing inhibiting this would be the fragrance oil. They bear their own risks of toxicity though. A non-toxic route that would work just as well would be to just to 100%, food grade mineral oil. It's non-toxic, rated for food contact, and safe to use in a house with children.I applaud your willingness to explore new finishes. That willingness is what generates new ideas. I would recommend in the future checking to see what oils polymerize and what go rancid though.

When using epoxy as a filler layer, I would recommend going with a micro-balloon filler to make sanding easier. When I built my boat, I got a blended filler specifically meant for easy sanding and to be thixotropic. I would recommend going that route instead of just using fused silica. Fused silica (as linked in step 11) is great for making more of a peanut-butter consistency in epoxy, but it also makes it really hard. There's a good reason people use it to build up knife edges in underwater foils.

As someone who suffers from nose bleeds, I confirm that this works. Be careful you don't leave the H2O2 on too long though or it can bleach fabrics.

The problem with aluminum cans is that they have a lot of dross. They also shrink a lot when casting. You should instead find some cast aluminum gardening tools, second hand, and melt those. They'll cast better and you'll get more usable aluminum out of them.

It looks good enough to belong in a museum. Great job.

Well done my friend. Easy to follow and very approachable.I'm not sure about European (or African for that matter) swallows, but a lot of our swallows don't need that much to get started on their nests. They will use something that only pokes out a couple of millimeters from a wall to start a nest in. A friend of mine has a family ranch that gets swallows that make nests on the ~3 mm lip of a board that's right under his eves. So my point is that you probably could get by with a 6 mm wide strip of wood at the base of the cutting boards and call it good.

Why only hand wash? Why not top rack in the dishwasher?

The one about the driver bit turned into a scratch awl is perfect for all the stripped out #2 Phillips that I can't seem to bring myself to throw in recycling.

As someone who brews kombucha, that cheese cloth will eventually let in fruit flies. An old, clean, cotton shirt would be a better defense against fruit flies.

Interesting idea, but these will be far from any protection from firearms. Even the smallest calibers with the lowest amount of powder will easily penetrate this. Just google, "are kevlar canoes bullet proof?" to get an answer that isn't me. Kevlar as body armor works because the kevlar fabric moves. Making it rigid prevents that movement and renders it useless in that regard. If you really wanted to use this for anything other than road rash protection, you need to overlap your plates and give them a curved surface. Look at ancient armor with individual plates (Wisby coat of plates is an excellent example). They always overlap. They do this to spread force over a larger surface area and to prevent things from sliding between the plates. Another thing to note is that the plate...

Interesting idea, but these will be far from any protection from firearms. Even the smallest calibers with the lowest amount of powder will easily penetrate this. Just google, "are kevlar canoes bullet proof?" to get an answer that isn't me. Kevlar as body armor works because the kevlar fabric moves. Making it rigid prevents that movement and renders it useless in that regard. If you really wanted to use this for anything other than road rash protection, you need to overlap your plates and give them a curved surface. Look at ancient armor with individual plates (Wisby coat of plates is an excellent example). They always overlap. They do this to spread force over a larger surface area and to prevent things from sliding between the plates. Another thing to note is that the plates of ancient armor are always curved. This is because curved surfaces are much stronger than flat. Those ancient armorers knew what they were doing because lives of those who paid for their product literally depended on it.I applaud your efforts on this. You certainly got some armor that looks cool and is easily made with modern materials. I would recommend that for your Mark II armor, you do a bit more reading into the history and the why of armor so you can design something much more functional.

You said, "I guess I never quite understood the original design of the standard teardrop having the blunt flat side forward and the slope design in the back. I planned on doing several thousand miles of highway driving and wanted it to be more aerodynamic and with less wind drag."This tells me that you didn't actually read up on aerodynamics. One of the most aerodynamic shapes is the raindrop. The rounded front with a tapered rear is very aerodynamic. With a blunt rear, you are pulling a vacuum behind your trailer and increasing the weight you are pulling by a significant amount.With that being said, this looks like it is really well built. I thought that it was a customized commercial trailer from the thumbnail. Well done!

Thanks!

What thickness of leather are you using here? I really like your methodology. These ax scabbards have a functional elegance.

Use Google Translate.

The smaller pipe probably would have benefited from a webbing handle attached to the pipe, so it weakened the pipe less. Alternatively you could strengthen it by adding some wood to the outside to extend the stress into solid pipe.Neat idea! I really like it. I have some 3" that I think I'll make some for my kids with.

A flexible drawknife seems like it could be really handy for dishing out shallow bowls. For making something flat on the other hand....Neat idea. I've got an old, bent saw I inherited from my grandmother that I might now have a use for.

When you dub your collar, do you use a dubbing loop or make a dubbing noodle? Also, did you brush your collar to give it that look or do you go with a freshly dubbed look?As an experienced fly tyer, I can follow these instructions. It would behoove you to elaborate on some of the steps with length of tail fibers, tie in points, and proportion ratios.

I used to play a lot of Warhammer 40k, competitively. In all of the tournaments, I can't remember ever hearing someone complain about a roll and not get laughed out of the building. There were some guys that rolled 40 dice at a time, so it's not like they were little rolls. I also used to play a lot of pen and paper RPGs. I can't remember anyone saying, "That roll didn't count" aside from the not on the table rolls. Everyone I played with understood the dice went how they went. Maybe we always had a DM that was in it for the game, not to "win" against the players.Maybe it's personality differences in where we look for advantages. For me at least, if I'm going to win, it'll be because I was the better player, not because I complained the loudest.

That floor looks like an ice rink if it got wet. Any way to have the above result without creating a slipping hazard?

If you had heated your epoxy before casting, that would have thinned it out and you would have had fewer bubbles in the pour. As is, there are very few bubble though.

I was hoping that you'd use bog-iron from Iceland to make your lock and key. That'd be the icing on the cake.

I just split my mother and didn't have anyone to gift it to so it went into the compost pile. This looks like a fun way to use the splits. What was the final thickness of the "leather" after the mother dried? I'm just trying to get an idea on what the expected thickness shrinkage would be.

Well done my friend. Good to see you. Glad to see that you are still making. I like the clever approach to this. Cheers!

Do you have some kind of plinth to set the crucible on? Without one, I would think that the crucible would, at best, compress the blanket and reduce it's insulative qualities. At worst, it would make the crucible tip over and spill molten metal all over your foundry.

Auntie Wikipedia has your answer: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid

Your aluminum roller nut will wear out with a steel rebar tickler. To ensure longevity, you should drill and tap a hole where the tickler meets the nut, within the nut. Inset a screw and grind it flat with the contacting face of the nut. That way you have steel on steel to help with wearing. Traditionally, they used an iron rod or plate in that contact point if the nut was made of horn, bone, or bronze and they used an iron tickler.

A more expensive but better transfer of heat to the coils would have been to use Liver of Sulfur on the copper tubing. It would have applied a patina to the copper that would have a better heat transfer since it is part of the copper than the paint (which is slightly insulative).

It really reminds me of the Garthim from The Dark Crystal. Super cool.

I would recommend testing your cleaning solvent on non-visible surfaces before committing to cleaning everything with it. Keycaps come in all flavors of plastic, and while most are alcohol resistant, I would hate to be the person to have cloudy keycaps after running through this because I didn't test.

Glass naturally filters UVA, but not UVB.

That water is pretty warm for that far north. I'm not as far north as you are (laterally speaking), but the ocean currents where I live keep our ocean colder in the summer (~12 C at the warmest). 15 C would be darn near tropical.Thanks for the post. It was well laid out and your feast looks fit for a king. Well done!

OCD is in order based on the shape of the letter with the most curves to the least curves. At least, that's what I tell myself so I can sleep at night... ;)

You shouldn't use it to where it is hot enough to vaporize or smoke. That's dangerous to your lungs, not to mention the Earth. The soldering iron should be hot enough to melt, but not hot enough to smoke. If all it does is melt the plastic, nothing is released to the atmosphere. Above, I was advocating melting, not burning.

Instead of drilling hundreds of holes, instead get a cheap soldering iron and melt them.

Instead of buying a plank of cedar for $6 that's good for half of a salmon, you should go with a cedar fence plank for $2 and sand it down. You then get three times the planks for a third of the price.

Keyhole Saw is the name I was taught.

That's awesome. Thank you!

That's a really clever use of aluminum I-beam that's been cut in half. Did you make that yourself or find it in it's current state?

They are called Alkaline batteries because they use an alkaline electrolyte instead of an acidic one. You aren't neutralizing any acid with that paste, but instead scrubbing the corrosion and alkaline salts from the leads. Using a drop of vinegar on a cotton swab followed by water would yield similar results.Good job on using what you had on hand to take care of a problem. That takes good ingenuity. Well done!

Well done! This is a great solution!

This looks like it would be good for wing shooting: you can pick up your shells and carry them with you instead of leaving them in nature.An idea that came to me while reading this is to instead of sealing the bottom, put a heavy duty zipper in it's place. That way you can empty your dump bag quickly without needing to take it off.Another idea is to use Tyvek as a hinge for your plastic cover so it moves out of the way easily, but is still ridgid.

So what I'm hearing is that you sort of gently scrub the carpet with longer strokes?

I do the same thing for my shower caddy!

Do you pull or push the broom over the carpets?

When laying out the lines of a traditional wooden boat, you typically do what is called lofting: you draw stations and points along a long, typically white, sheet(s) of plywood so you can get dimensions for the frames and other boat parts. You'll lay down nails with heads along the line and then press a sheet of plywood against those nail heads to transfer the lines that you've drawn to the plywood. That way you have everything still intact on your lofted lines and can cut out frame molds.

Have you tested the amp hours of the batteries? A lot of the ones on Bang Good and other cheap import sites are usually well below their listed capacity. If memory serves, with current lithium battery technology, 18650 batteries can only have 3500 mAH capacity. Anything over that are greatly exaggerating the truth. With the two cheap parallel cells, my guess is that you are going to be closer to 3000 mAH, which is more than enough for a cell phone charger.It is really good that you use hot glue to cement everything in place. With the powerbank being tossed into backpacks, onto desks, etc., you need to keep components in place to prevent leads and wires from breaking. Well done.

When I saw the thumbnail from the gallery, I thought, "It's just string tied around the neck of the bottle. Why an 'ible for that?" The solution was much more clever than I had originally thought. Well done.

Plywood is really hard on plane irons. I've got similar results with a set of metal files (with light pressure) instead on plywood with really thin laminations. Files are also a lot cheaper than planes, so it is easier for the beginner to get into the hobby too.Good ideas and great explanations. It is good to drill pilot holes. You can also "center punch" the pilots to make them accurate too. A sharpened nail (with the files mentioned above) makes a good awl for marking drilling holes.

This is brilliant. I could have used this two days ago, but I'll be using it in the future.

Clever idea to use hardware cloth for the trellis.

Silicone and Acrylic will eventually fail over time, just as a warning.Looks great and an excellent use of a laser cutter for a more everyday application.

Thanks!

Awesome build. How heavy did it turn out?

Thanks!

This is an awesome project and a good solution to your problem. Well done!

Is the tension in the bolts enough to prevent you from accidentally pulling the angle away from where you want? It feels to me (who's never made one, so I can't really comment) that as you used the saw, it would slowly move the angle if you pushed the saw imperceptibly to the side.

SQUEAK!

I'm a big fan of pork jowl bacon. If you haven't had that, I would recommend it.

The aluminum will be fine as long as it has access to air. The passivating layer of aluminum oxide will protect the aluminum inside. It is when you coat aluminum in something that doesn't allow air to penetrate down to the surface that you get corrosion in Aluminum. Crevice corrosion is real when it comes to Aluminum.

Hello fellow Oregonian! Your trailer looks great. Hopefully you'll get some good use out of it during spring salmon season!

There won't be any spores at this point to cause an allergic reaction. If you've done it right and sterilized your medium before inoculating, and you dry your medium thoroughly, you shouldn't have any mold. Mushrooms are pretty aggressive (especially Oyster Mushrooms, which I'm assuming that they are using for the mother culture because they can take a wide array of substrates) and will literally devour mold while growing. I have serious mold allergies and I wouldn't hesitate to do this.