LED LAMP With Hidden Wireless Charger




Introduction: LED LAMP With Hidden Wireless Charger

About: Discover woodworking, concrete, LEDs, home decor and DIY projects you'll love.

Hi guys, in this post I will be modifying a USB Lamp and integrating an inexpensive wireless charger into the base. This is a very bright light with 3 different color temperature to choose from. The lamp is made from walnut and maple lumber.

For the complete materials list and tools used, visit diycreators.com


LED light Used- https://amzn.to/2YJ6OIY

Wireless Charger- https://amzn.to/317X2xq

6 conductor cable- https://homedepot.sjv.io/VKbGj

Step 1: Cut the Parts for the Lamp

As mentioned, the lamp head is Walnut. See the materials list of digram below for measurements. I wanted the lamp to have a bit of a lean-to it, so I cut a 15deg miter on one end at the miter saw.

Step 2: Using the Router to Route a Channel

Center the LED channel on the piece of walnut then traced it with pencell or a marking tool. After that, use a router to route the section for the LED channel. I used a straight router bit to remove that section. Keep in mind, you can always frame the lamp head around the LED light if you do not have the ability to route.

If you used a router, the slot has two round ends from the router bit. Take a chisel and cut out the corners for the channel. I used a piece of Maple lumber ¾ in thick for the lamp base. Then was cut to 6in by 6in (152.4mm by 152.4mm). You can always go bigger on the base, I just worked with what I had on hand.

Step 3: Drill a Hole to Pass the Light Power Wire

Find the center of the lamp base, drill a ¼in to 3/8in hole for the wire to pass through both the lamp head and the base. What worked out well was drilling from the bottom right through the center. Then drill another hole from the LED channel down and angled towards the hole drilled previously.

Step 4: Route the Lamp Base for the Wireless Charger

This part is the more time communing part of the project. Not just the routing but trying to make it work. When using the router, make sure you are keeping track of the thickness of the lumber, the thickness of the wireless charger, and how much material you are removing. It all depending on the Wireless charger you are using, and there is a lot out there. This one is used “ Blitzwolf ” around $8 each and it works, but there are a number of them to try out “ click here

If you want to keep the base as thin as possible, then you need to find one close to the thickness of .43in thick. Otherwise, you may be to add depth to the base. The one I used work great, but because I use an otter box case on my phone, it was hit and miss through the wood and the case. It worked flawlessly with no case on the phone.

Step 5: Attaching the LED Lamp Head to the Base

It’s easiest to sand everything down when it’s not assembled, so I did that first. I then applied a medium Danish oil to the lamp head. Make sure no oil gets on the end grain where it would be joined to the base.

At this point, no finish was applied to the lamp base. To secure the head to the bottom, apply wood glue lamp head and attach it to the base. If you watched the video “Krazy Glue” sponsored it with their quick cure wood glue. To be clear, they did not sponsor this post. I like this glue; it works in minutes of applying. Being that it cures so fast it’s not something I would try on big projects, but for quick repairs and small wood projects, it’s worth a try. For added security installed a two 1 ¼ wood screw through the base and into the lamp head. Pre-drill the hole first, so no splitting occurs.

Step 6: Installing the Power Cable

The LED light comes with a 3-conductor cable, that needs to be replaced. To keep things to one cable, I ordered a 6-conductor cable. One of the 6 will be unused, so you only need 5-conductors, but a 6-conductor cable is more common. A 1/8 hole needs to be drilled through the back of the lamp base to pass the wire.

The light requires three conductors (red, white and black). Strip the 6-Conductors jacket and push these wires up to the location of the light. Leave the remaining three at the bottom. I used a soldering iron to remove the existing conductors from the light strip and replace them one by one with the new conductors. You will then do the same thing at the other end of the wire at the switch, replace wire for wire. When this step is completed, push the channel down into the channel without pinching the wires. I found it easier to put the LED cover on before placing the channel in the slot.

Step 7: Wiring Up the USB Charger

If you are like me, you probably have a few USB micro cables hanging around. The wireless charger comes with one as well. I suggest using one that you may not need, this way you can return the charger without any issues.

After cutting a Micro USB, strip it and remove the shield. Next cut off the white and green from the USB Micro plug. The red and black is all you need for this.

Splice the wires from the micro USB. Connect the yellow to the (Red) and the green to the (Black) on the 6-conductor. Be sure to apply solder on the splice and cover the connection with the shrink tube. There will be one conductor left over; you can cut it off.

At the switch, the USB will be wired directly to the power source (wire going to the wall plug). From the 6-Conductor use the yellow and the green. Solder the yellow to the (Red) and the green to the (Black) there will be one conductor left over, you can cut it off.

Step 8: Installing the Wireless Charger

Now plug the Mirco cable in the wireless charger, then hot glue it into the base. If you have slack on the wires you can coil them up in the base. I didn't talk much of the bottom cover. The piece I used is a 1/8in thick. You can probably get by without it. It adds a solid layer to the bottom and more surface for the felts pad.

To secure the bottom, I applied wood glue on the base then clamped it down. Even though this piece is 1/8in thick, a 1/4 in a sheet of wood could also be used and more than likely easier to find.

With the bottom added, I suggest adding a chamfer to the bottom this will clean up the joining line. Finally, install the felts pad. The felt pad allows you to have access to the device and wire splice. The way this lamp is designed everything is replaceable.

Lastly, apply a finish to the base. I used a wipe-on poly as a topcoat for both the lamp base and the lamp head. You may now enjoy this desk lamp.

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    7 Discussions


    Question 1 year ago on Step 8

    How and what did you use to attach the cord to a power source? If you discussed that, I missed it.


    Answer 1 year ago

    I'm not sure he made a point of it, but the LED light bar had an existing USB cable to power it. Designed to be plugged into a USB wall wart. He leveraged that connection to power both the light strip and the power pad. If I follow correctly the power pad is always on and you can turn the cool/warm LEDs on/off independently.Check out step 7 closely.


    Reply 1 year ago

    Thank you for replying. I read Step 7 again, but also watched the video (I usually don’t view the videos). This time I guess I should have. It’s more clear than the writing, especially Step 7.

    Got my answer.


    1 year ago on Step 6

    can you make me one how much would you charges ?
    I like your idea lamp with cellphone charger same time that is awesome but I wonder can you add hole to put pencil and paper size in holding index card would be nice.


    1 year ago

    I saw this on HaD, I too was wondering if you used two USB sources or just a single 5v 2.4a USB port and split the power.


    1 year ago

    Looks great and it's a great idea. I might have been tempted to just use a 12v coaxial power plug in the base (with a wall wart) to power a LED strip and use a small buck 12v-5v pwr supply (stupid cheap these days) in the base to power the charger, but your idea is much more straight forward and leaves you the light controls.


    1 year ago

    Great combination of uses, well made too.