The perfect hanger for a coat closet or if you are tired of your roommates stealing your hangers!

Step 1: Tools and Materials

TOOLS

Safety

Safety Glasses, Disposable Gloves, Dust Mask

Measuring

Caliper, Kitchen Scale, Tape Measure

Machines

Table Saw, Band Saw (or Jigsaw), Drill and Bits (Big Ones), Palm Sander

Everything Else

Clamps, Chisels, Scissors, Leather Working Needles, Vise, Chip Brush, Sandpaper (60-220, 600)

MATERIALS

Hanger

4x4 Birch, Leather (Belting), Industrial Felt, Thread

Jig

Plywood, Screws

Resin

DAP Plastic Resin, Plastic Drop Cloth, Plastic Fork, Mixing Cups or Disposable Cups

Step 2: Hanger Pattern

Trace a hanger to get an approximate size and shape.

I altered it so that it was a bit more like a bell curve so that my shirts and coats with collars would sit more naturally than my original hanger.

Step 3: Cutting Ply for Jig

Rip and cut 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood. The dimensions should be based on the size hanger.

Width - Should be just as wide as you would like your hanger to be.

Height - Should be at least double the height of the hanger. This will leave room for the laminates to hang over and allow for trimming later.

While at the table saw, rip some 1.5 - 2" strips. They will be used later as the feet and fence pieces for the jig.

*I cut more so I could make a secondary jig later if I were to make a lot of these.

Step 4: Tracing Pattern

Trace the pattern onto one of the plywood pieces.

*I would suggest measuring from the bottom up to each side to ensure that the hanger is somewhat perpendicular to the bottom.

Step 5: Plot Clamp Holes

The size of the bit will be based on the size and shape of your clamps. The head and its foot needs to be able to fit so that the foot is centered between the jig.
Before deciding where your clamp holes will go, draw an offset outline below your hanger outline; about 1.5 - 2". When clamping you want the jig to be strong enough to withstand the pressure from the clamp
Plot the clamps' holes so that a clamp can be applied at all of the peaks and valleys of the curves. Be sure to not have your holes too close to another, unless your goal is to have a three point hole as I do at the peak of the hanger.

Step 6: Screwing Boards Together

Line up the bottom of the boards so that they are flush.
Clamp them together.
Drill pilot holes and screw boards together.

Step 7: Cutting, Sanding, and Drilling Jig

Using either a bandsaw or jigsaw, cut out the hanger shape.
Sand the profile. It does not need to be perfect, just not choppy.
Drill the clamp holes.

Step 8: Marking Clamp Direction

The clamps' direction need to alternate to even the pressure. If the clamps were all on one side, that side would be pinched and the other would fan out.

*This isn't absolutely necessary but I like to mark the direction of the clamps.

Step 9: Marking Trim Line

Decide how wide you would like the hanger to be and mark each side of the jig.

Step 10: Adding Jig Fence

Trim strips that you ripped at the table saw so that you have two solid feet and about five shorter pieces for the fence.
The fence will make lining up the boards, clamping, and finishing much easier.
Test to make sure that the fence does not get in the way of the clamps.

Step 11: Cutting Laminates

Before cutting the laminates, draw two angled lines across your stock. This will make lining up the boards much easier later.
When cutting the laminates, your strips will be what is on the left, or scrap, side of the saw. Please remember all basic safety rules when it comes to the table saw, especially when cutting laminates.
I like to number the laminates as well so that the pattern of the grain can be consistent after it is glued together.
It is likely that you will cut at least one of your laminates a little thick. KEEP IT! You will use this later as a press when clamping.

TABLE SAW ALTERNATIVE

I have now tried it but you could probably use veneers instead of making your own. It would take more strips to get a solid thickness

Step 12: Dry Clamping

Stack up your boards (the number depending on the desired thickness of the hanger) on the center of the jig.
Place the first clamp in the middle.
Place the next clamp on either the left or right hole.
Work back and forth to ease this wood to the jig.
Other than the first clamp, DO NOT tighten a clamp right away. Ease the wood by massaging into place. Think of it like kneading dough or clay. This is both to test out the thickness and flexibility of the laminates as well as getting you used to clamping on your curved surface.
Check for gaps in the laminates. Gaps occur either because the surface of the laminates are not smooth, there is something stuck in between layers, or a clamp closer to the exterior was tightened prematurely resulting in an "air bubble."

Step 13: Reset All Clamps

Reset all of your clamps. This will make things easier in the long run. The next time you will use this your gloves will wet and sticky and you will be worried about your resin setting.

Step 14: Setting Up Plastic Resin

Getting Ready for Resin

Kitchen Scale
Gloves
Mixing Cups
Plastic Fork
DAP Plastic Resin
Water
Protective Sheeting (plastic drop cloth)

Clear off your work surface and cover it in plastic.
Cut one more piece of plastic that will fit over the laminates. This will preserve your jig and make clean up much easier.

Step 15: Mixing Resin

You could measure the proportions of the resin and water either by weight or volume but I would highly suggest weighing them. It will be much more accurate.
Read the directions on the back of the container for the proportions.
If this is your first time using plastic resin, I would suggest mixing more than you need.
When combining the water and powder, I suggest gradually adding the water to the powder. Think of it as making a paste, then slowly thinning it out.
You want the consistency to be a little less clumpy than I have in the photo.

Step 16: Clamping Laminates to Jig

Place your plastic sheet down and start brushing on the resin with a chip brush.
Much like using PLA glue, apply resin to both sides of the board (other than the bottom of the bottom board and the top of the top board).
When the boards are stacked together, place plastic wrapped laminates on the jig.
Place the slightly thicker laminate on top of that.
Remembering to push the laminates up against the fence, clamp as you did before, remembering to ease the laminates into place.
Clamp the ends of the laminates together so they do not fan out.

Step 17: Removing Excess Resin

Place a buffer between the hanger and your work surface.
Use a chisel to remove the chunks of resin.
If the laminates were glued "in order", using a chisel or hand plane will be much easier because the grain will be going in the same direction.

Be sure to wear safety glasses when chipping off the resin. DRIED RESIN IS EXTREMELY SHARP

Step 18: Trimming Hanger

Place hanger on jig.
Mark trim marks on hanger.
Trim hanger.
Break the edge on the corners

Step 19: Sanding and Raising the Grain

Be sure to sand until the resin is removed from the surface of the hanger. Sand up to 220.

Because the hanger comes in contact with clothing, I would suggest raising the grain. This will make the surfaces smoother and prevent potential splintering.

Raising the Grain

Sand all surfaces up to 150.
Dampen a cloth and wipe hanger.
Once the hanger dries, sand at 150 again.
Repeat process up to 220.

Sanding Trick

Scribble on surface with pencil. Be sure to mark the inside of the lowest points.
Sand until all pencil marks are removed. This helps find all of the high and low points.