Introduction: Laptop Station
I needed a station for all my stuff when I sit in my favourite armchair. My criteria was that it set my laptop screen at eye level, had a writing pad, and had spaces for my earbuds, pens, books, keyboard, papers, and phone. It needed to look good from the back and front.
Note: I have made the measurements 2 inches shorter that what is in the picture. I though the top looked too large for the legs. If I were to do it again, I would make the top 2 inches shorter.
Step 1: Prepare Trays
Cut out the pieces for the trays They don't have to be the same wood as the unit as the fronts will be covered with facing. These measurements create spaces 3 x 3 1/2, 13 x 3 1/2, 3 x 3, 13 x 3, and a slide out writing board. All are 12 inches deep. Paint them the same color as the final solid wood colour.
Cut out boards: 3 x 12, 3 1/2 x 12, 9 1/2 x 12, 3 x 3, Three pieces 16 3/4 x 12, . Paint them the same color as the final solid wood colour.
Cut three dados in the 9 1/2 x 12 board: one at the bottom, one 4 inches up from the bottom, and one 7 3/4 inches up from the bottom. Slide one 16 3/4 inch board into the bottom dado. Glue and screw. Place the 3 1/2 x 12 board on the bottom board, 3 inches from the side. Glue and screw it on. Slide the second 16 3/4 board into the second dado. Glue and screw. (If you are making a secret compartment, do it now. See Step 3) Place the 3 x 12 board on it, directly above the 3 1/2 inch board. Glue and screw. Put the 3 x 3 eight inches back in the 3 x 3 cavity. This will be a stop for pencils and pens. Put the third 16 3/4 board into the third dado. Glue and screw.
Step 2: Writing Platform
Note: For this project, I started with rough cherry stock for the main body and planed it down to 7/8 inch. This gave it a more solid look than the standard 3/4 inch.
To make the pencil holder, cut a piece of 7/8 x 7/8 stock 3 inches long. Cut a piece of thin stock, 3 x 7 1/2 inches and dado it into the 3 inch stock.
To make the roller platform, cut out notches and screw in two rollers on the top 16 3/4 board so they stick just above the top surface. This is optional. It will slide well without rollers if you wax the wood with sliding wax. Cut out a board 16 x 3. Drill a 3/8 inch hole in either side right at the back of the board 1 inch deep. Stick in and glue a 3/8 dowel so that it sticks out 1/4 inch. To make the runners, cut two strips 1/4 x 1/4 x 12 and glue one to the top of the 16 3/4 board at each side. The part of the dowel that is sticking out will ride along these.
Step 3: Secret Compartment: Optional
Cut a block 2 7/8 x 2 7/8. Drill a one inch hole in the center and sand it smooth. Drill a couple of holes the size of rare earth magnets into the back. Put a drop of glue in and push in the rare earth magnets.
Cut a piece of one inch dowel 7/8 inches long. Groove a slot in one end that a slot screwdriver could fit in. Cut a piece of 1/8 inch stock 2 3/4 inches diameter with a tab on either side. In the second and third 16 3/4 boards, carve out grooves that will accept the tabs. This has to be done before you assemble the tray structure. Put small nails in the four corners for the back of the 2 3/4 x 2 3/4 block to sit against. Cut another circle with a diameter of 2 3/4 inches. cut a slot in it identical to the slot in the dowel. Push the dowel through the hole and glue the new circle onto the front (slot end) of the dowel.
This is the piece that can be removed to reveal the hidden compartment. You will need a dowel with a piece of metal attached. The magnets in the piece with be attracted to the metal and you'll be able to pull out the 2 7/8 x 2 7/8 inch piece. A screwdriver can turn the dowel so the tabs slide into the grooves locking it into place.
Paint all pieces.
The slanted ramp for pens and pencils should be just set into place. It will be in front of the secret door and hide it.
Step 4: Prepare the Frame
Plane the rough boards down to the desired thickness. I choose 7/8 inch thick. You will need the following sizes: (These are exact measures. Leave extra for safety.) Two pieces 13 x 15 high for the sides, 16 x 24 for the back, Two pieces 22 x 13 for the sides.
Make a design of some sort along the top of the back piece. Cut both edges on a 45 degree angle. Cut one end of each of the side pieces on a 45 degree angle. Glue and nail the sides to the back to make a U.
Step 5: Attach the Trays
Place the frame on its back and make a mark 1 7/8 down from the top of the sides. This is where the top of the tray section will go. On the left side, glue and screw a support piece to the side. This will support the top. Put the tray section in place. Draw a line inside the bottom, inside the left side and underneath the second 16 3/4 board on the right side. Remove the trays and glue and screw support pieces on the lines. The support pieces will be inside the tray section and so not visible.
Cut the top to exactly fit in place. The front should extend exactly 7/8 inch past the sides. Glue and screw it onto the support piece. Put some angled screws into the back and right side as there are no support pieces there.
Put the writing board into place and then put the whole tray section into place. Screw it onto the supports. The second 16 3/4 board won't be able to be screwed onto its support. It just rests there.
Step 6: Facing
Cut about 130 inches of 7/8 x 7/8 stock for the facing.
In the end of one piece, cut a groove 1/4 inch deep, 3/8 inch wide curving up. Then cut it off 1/2 inch long. Clamp and glue it where the writing platform will go. This is for the dowel to slide into when the writing platform gets pulled out. The groove must curve up so the platform will slant down. Cut a piece of facing 9 1/2 long for the left side of the tray section. Cut the same groove onto the side of this piece near the top for the other dowel.
Cut, glue, and nail facing for the rest of the tray boards.
Cut a piece of facing for the writing platform front. Attach a handle to it, insetting the screw heads. Glue and nail it to the writing platform.
Cut the bottom exactly to size. The front should come even with the front of the facing. Angle screw it to the sides and back from the bottom.
Step 7: Base
Cut eight pieces of stock 2 1/2 x 14 inches. Cut them to the shape shown in the photo. Note that the bottom ones are different than the top ones. Glue them together in pairs. Sand them to match.
Cut four pieces of stock 1 3/4 x 11 for the posts. Glue them together in pairs.
Attach the posts to the bases with dowels to form two legs.
Cut about 100 inches of stock 1 1/2 inches wide. Calculate the angles and add four pieces so the fall in the middle of the base and post. Glue and nail them. Do the same with the other leg.
Cut about 4 feet of stock 2 inches wide. Cut them 19 1/2 inches long. Drill dowels and insert them so the top of the bottom piece is flush with the top of the base and the top of the top piece is flush with the top of the top piece.
Take the remaining 1 1/2 inch stock, measure the angles, and insert them between the top and bottom cross pieces as shown in the photo.
Attach the base to the station with glue and dowels.
Step 8: Writing Platform Support
Make two supports as shown. Drill 3/8 inch holes on the underside of the bottom shelf so they line up about 2 inches from the edges of the writing platform and the arm just clears the bottom shelf. Pull out the platform and mark where the underside of the platform meets the arm. Average the two so they are the same distances from the front and drill holes half way through the platform.
If desired, cover the writing platform with stock. This might not work with all woods, but I used cherry which cuts into thin strips easily. Rip enough thin strips of stock to cover the platform and cut them to length. Spread glue evenly over the platform and place the strips over it. Put three boards lengthwise across and clamp them down so they will put pressure on the strips. Remove them when the glue is dry.
Step 9: Varnish
Sand all pieces with progressively finer sandpaper (It may be easier to do this before you put everything together). Cover with sufficient layers of varnish. The number will depend on whether you're using water-based or oil-based varnish. Sand lightly between coats. When the final coat has dried a minimum of 24 hours, sand lightly with 400 grit sandpaper and wipe with a damp cloth.