Introduction: Lava Lamp From a Wine Bottle
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This is my first Instructable, and I'm proud to say that I've revamped the lava lamp for DIYers- the project is designed for multiple wine bottles, so you can change the color of your lamp in just a few seconds. In a few days, I'd used many formulas to create what I believe are not only functional but elegant and beautiful (and groovy) lava lamps. I'm looking forward to sharing my experience.
Step 1: Materials
- 1”x8”x4’ white wood board
- All wood pieces were cut from this board. Remember that what’s sold as 1” thick wood is actually only ¾” thick. This is expected.
- Nails and nail gun (or hammer)
- You can use another preferred method of adhesion, but be prepared to deal with boards that don’t exactly meet up. I had originally used wood glue but found that it was not strong enough to hold such a tight fit.
- 75-watt soft glow bulb
- Porcelain (or other material) standard light fixture no larger than 4” in diameter
- Electrical tape
- Extension cord (two-pronged)
- You’ll be cutting this. If you don’t already have one that you’re willing to cut, you’ll need to buy one.
- Standard 750mL wine bottle
- Cork or wine bottle stopper
- Wood caulk
- There were a few places in my lamp where light was escaping; I used wood caulk to seal the cracks/edges.
- Baby/mineral oil
- 70% isopropyl alcohol
- Antifreeze
- Oil-based artist’s paint or oil pastels
- Food dye (optional)
- Spray paint (optional)
- Lacquer furniture finish (optional)
Step 2: Creating the Base Plate
It’s important to remember that while the base I used was a truncated pyramid (and therefore relatively complex), you have the creative liberty to create whatever shape you’d like as long as it can store the light fixture and bulb and have a wine bottle sit on top. The base that I created requires basic woodworking skills and tools, including a chop saw and a table saw, among others. The website http://pdxtex.com/canoe/compound.htm can assist in the calculations of the angles of a truncated pyramid. Thanks to JGDean for the comment with this information!
Begin by cutting a 6” square base plate from your wood. I used a table saw, but you can use whatever tool you’d like (as long as it gets the job done!).
Next, cut the extension cord using a wire cutter.
Next, use the wire cutter to strip the wire an inch or so back.
Keeping the two major wires separate, twist the wires together firmly. Attach each twisted major wire to a screw (wire terminal) on the light fixture. Because we are dealing with a light bulb, we do not need to know which wire goes to which terminal.
Using a screwdriver, drive the screws ensuring that the wires stay as twisted together as possible and do not fray. Cover the bottom of the fixture with electrical tape.
Next, drill holes in the base plate to allow for the insertion of screws with which to attach the fixture to the base.
Step 3: Creating the Sides
The sides of the base are perhaps the most complicated parts of the project. The following images summarize the cuts required to form the truncated pyramid. I have described the cuts below, but the pictures will undoubtedly be more helpful in the production of the necessary pieces. You will need a combination of both a chop saw and a table saw to form these cuts.
Using a table saw, cut 15 degree angles on both sides of the board. Make two corresponding cuts in the wood for the base to fit into using these blade positions.
Using a compound miter saw, set the bevel angle to 33 degrees and the miter angle to 15 degrees. Perform the appropriate cuts.
Produce four of these pieces (which are about 7” at their bottom and 4 ¼” at their top) to fit around the 6” base. One of the pieces should have a small cut to allow the wire to exit.
Step 4: Creating the Wine Bottle Holder
This piece is very simple; it’s a 4” square with 15 degree sides. I cut a hole in mine using a hole saw, and created a wedge for the wine bottle to sit on using a dremel.
Step 5: Assembly
Attach the four trapezoidal pieces together. I used wood glue to stabilize the pieces while I nailed them together.
Fit the base and light fixture into the truncated pyramid. Be sure to line up the holes you created for the wire to exit. I pre-drilled the base into the four side pieces and inserted screws so I’d be able to change the bulb out if I had any issues.
Lastly, attach the top piece (which holds the wine bottle) to the pyramid using wood glue.
At this phase, I highly recommend spraying the inside of the enclosure with a high-heat spray paint. If you don't do this, the wood will release sap and char.
Step 6: Chemicals
NOTICE: (11/13/16) Updates complete! I have found the perfect formula!
To have a functional lava lamp, you really need to understand how lava lamps work. The “lava” in the lamp is usually an oil, and the transparent liquid is an alcohol solution, so the two do not mix. The real magic happens when the light bulb heats the oil. Because the densities of the oil and alcohol are so close, just the heat from the light bulb is enough to make the difference in which is denser. When the oil becomes less dense than the alcohol, it rises, and as it cools, it becomes more dense again and sinks. This cycle is what causes the lava lamp to function.
The precision necessitated by a functional mixture is very large. I’ve many hours trying to find the right ratios of various chemicals, including antifreeze, turpentine, vegetable oil, baby oil, isopropyl alcohol, water, paints, pastels and food dyes and I still have not found the perfect answer. I’ve spent made some working lamps, though, so I’ll try to summarize a few of the most effective mixtures I’ve created.
As standard procedure, mix all oils and oil paints together and all water-based/soluble liquids together separately before mixing in the wine bottle. Adding the chemicals too quickly or in the wrong order can lead to cloudiness, among other complications.
- Measure out:
- 15 mL antifreeze
- 630 mL 70% isopropyl alcohol
- 20 mL soy wax
- 30 mL baby/mineral oil
Making your own mixtures
If you’d like to make your own mixture, I wish you good luck! I highly recommend the website http://oozinggoo.com/; it was very helpful to me in the creation of my lamps. When making your own mixtures, you will be benefited greatly by the use of a gram scale to calculate densities of chemicals. When mixing the oils and water-based chemicals, your goal should be to have the oil on the bottom with a reverse meniscus facing into the alcohols.
For all of these mixtures, leave space in the top of the bottle to account for the expansion of liquids.
If the lamp gets cloudy
Put the lamp on the heat until it is fully liquidated. Then, refrigerate the wine bottle for a few hours and then set it back on the heat. The small particles of lava causing the cloudiness should coalesce.
Have fun with your lava lamp(s)! If you've got additional knowledge to
share about making lava lamps, please share it with me in the comments so I can add it to this Instructable!
Step 7:

Participated in the
Lamps and Lighting Contest 2016
41 Comments
Question 4 years ago on Step 7
My daughter decided to make this for her grade 9 tech class exam. Turned out pretty cool. Only problem is that our wax stuff rose to the top really cool but nothing would come back down. We used oil pastels in ours but you never said how much to use. Can you tell me how much to use?
Answer 4 years ago
It will help if you cool the top more. Wrap some aluminum foil around it.
Mvg Jan
Answer 4 years ago
That's so cool! It makes me so happy to hear that you two have used this. I would use just as much as I need to get the color I want and no more than that. I usually use paints. If it floats to the top and doesn't come down, either our wax is not dense enough or our alcohol solution is too dense. The easiest way to fix that is to use a higher concentration of alcohol (and less water), so a mixture of 91% and 70% might be helpful.
Reply 4 years ago
We have 99% alcohol. Would that be good to use? Shes very excited to try this again. Good to know about the pastels. We definately put to much in. Was fun to watch it all float to the top and take cool shapes and so on. Just sucked it didnt come back down. If 99% alcohol is good will be trying again tonight!
Reply 4 years ago
That's so exciting!! 99% rubbing alcohol might be too high a concentration. You'll need to tweak and mess with adding 99% to 70% to come up with a range that's in between, since your 70% was denser than your wax (and 99% will probably be not dense enough). But it should work other than that! Wishing you luck. Let me know if I can be helpful!
Question 4 years ago on Introduction
The liquid from my lava lamp recently Spilled Out, do you know what I could do to refill it? The wax is still in there, I just need to know the measurements and ingredients to refill the liquid. Could you help me by any chance?
6 years ago
There was a problem with the measurements. The list of things you needed to make the amazing lava lamp required a 750 mL wine bottle, but then asked for 830mL of the isopropyl alcohol. I don't know whether that was a mistake or you knew about it.
6 years ago
Would paraffin oil work as a substitute for paraffin wax? It's readily available in chemists and supermarkets in Australia.
6 years ago
Seems like mineral oil is utterly colorless [water-white] and not cloudy. Tried it?
Reply 6 years ago
I have tried baby oil. It's the same stuff, but with an added fragrance. I found it more accessible in local stores than mineral oil. It was indeed cloudless; it just requires a little more finesse when it comes to density as its density is further from water's.
Reply 6 years ago
Have you experimented by pouring your oil liquid into a baggie, and seeing how that behaves in a vat of your other fluid?
Reply 6 years ago
*Facepalms* No, but that's genius!! I'll see how it works and add it to the Instructable if it does.
6 years ago
Very good ins. I would have preferred what does work inside the lamp as opposed to what didn't. Still, great first ins.
Reply 6 years ago
Thanks for the tip. I am still working to try to find a better formula, and when I do, I will absolutely update this Instructable!
Reply 6 years ago
No prob. Those are cool so don't give up. Here's a site that makes them and lists the chemicals including wax, antifreeze and other fun stuff. But, it works.
http://makelava.com/how-to-make-a-homemade-lava-lamp/hardcore/
Reply 6 years ago
Yeah. Lava lamps are cool indeed!! I just want to "crack the code". While sites like that are great for identifying which chemicals to use, they don't provide empirical, certain numbers for the lava to "work". I really want to be able to provide solid numbers. I will continue to experiment with antifreeze, but I haven't actually tried wax yet. I've mentioned this to some others in the comment section, and I'll update this Instructable as soon as I do. Thank you very much for the helpful resource; I will browse that site for other info!!
6 years ago
Very nice and a great Instructable!
If my memory serves me, I remember that the heavier substance in my old lava lamp solidified if allowed to completely cool (like paraffin wax, whose specific gravity varies from 0.82 - 0.96 depending on purity & temperature and starts melting at about 100°F - 37.7°C.). I don't know if this is important or not. Maybe it will help with future projects.
If you are trying to make compound angle cuts like those for your truncated pyramid, there are a number of calculators online, like http://pdxtex.com/canoe/compound.htm that will let you just plug in angles and it will automatically give you the exact angles you need to cut to get the joints perfect. (Setting your saw to get these angles is another problem.)
Reply 6 years ago
Thanks for the helpful comments! I have seen the paraffin wax stuff, but part of my goal was for the ingredients to be accessible from local stores. I couldn't find it but online.
Wow, that website really would have saved me a headache. When I get the chance, I'll add that link to the Instructable. Thanks so much!
Reply 6 years ago
Paraffin wax is generally available in supermarkets or other stores that sell canning supplies as well as hobby shops that sell candle-making supplies. And of course, there's Amazon.com (although Walmart is a cheaper source)
If you're just working with 4-sided pyramids, there is a much simpler way to get the proper angles. Go to http://www.finewoodworking.com/2014/07/15/how-to-cut-compound-angled-joinery for instructions. I haven't tried it yet, but he sure makes it look easy.
Reply 6 years ago
Fair enough; I'll see if I can get my hands on some. I will update the Instructable if I have any success with it. From your descriptions of its melting point and density, the wax seems like a great option.
I'll have to check out that article as well! Thank you for all the recommendations; I really appreciate it!