Introduction: Recreate the Glossy Look of Windows Vista & OS X, on Objects in Real Life.

Add the gorgeous gloss finish of modern operating systems like Window's Aero, and Apple's Aqua, to objects in real life? This Instructable will demonstrate the process for adding a permanent, glossy, finish to surfaces and objects in real life.

The example posted here is wood, but the treatment can be used on any surface.

Step 1: Materials: the Gloss

The gloss is made of Envirotex Lite, High Gloss 2 Component Polymer Coating, that coats surfaces as a liquid, and hardens into a clear, reflective surface. A 1 gallon kit equals up to 50 coats of varnish, and covers 32 to 48 Square feet. A kit this size costs around $80(US).

The main concept to consider is permanency. Like painting an object, once this stuff coats an object, it stays coated. Once the compound dries it is possible to remove, but the process is unfun, and there are no guarantees that whatever is coated wont be ruined in the process. It adds an extra degree of urgency to the process that, but for the toxic smell of the chemicals, would be a sure-fire aphrodisiac.

Step 2: Materials for Mixing

Meteorological note: It's good to complete the process at room temperature. Cold temps result in angry liquids that will not set correctly.

The process begins in earnest when the two liquids are combined (insert your own joke here), so the second order of business is selecting an appropriate mixing bowl for our chemical consumaci�n.

This bowl will ultimately be a sacrifice to the gloss gods, so use something that is very clean, but expendable, like crewman "Redshirt" on Star Trek.

Using a favored cereal bowl, for example, would be a bad choice. Using an empty, washed, cream cheese container, will work just fine.

Mix the chemicals in 1:1 ratio, based on how much surface area you need to cover, and the desired thickness of the coat. In some cases, like the example shown here, the liquid will run off the sides of the object, limiting the possible thickness of the coating. When covering an object where the fluid can be sufficiently dammed up, thickness becomes more discretionary.

Step 3: Matarials for Bubbles

During the mixing process it's common for bubbles to form in the liquid. It's an aesthetic choice, but generally we don't want those bubbles to remain until the end of time, after the liquid hardens. Blowing on bubbles frees the trapped air from the liquid. Blowing through the straw creates a more concentrated burst, and keeps you a few inches further from the fumes.

Step 4: Ready the Area

The liquid has roughly the same consistency and viscosity as maple syrup, so make sure the area is ready for a wet, sticky mess (insert your own joke here).

I've used a cardboard box to contain the mess, and placed the wood on a matchbox, to allow for dripping.

Step 5: Pour and Mix

Mix in the liquid from each bottle in a 1:1 ratio. It is not super important to measure. "Eyeballing" the levels will work fine.

Then, mix it up. Use something clean to stir the liquid. I used a pen. ...not a great idea, but it worked.

Step 6: Spread the Goop

It's GO time. Dump your mixture onto the object you want to coat. Various methods can be employed to ensure proper spreadage (insert your own joke here). I used my pen to spread the liquid and cover the sides of the block.

Step 7: Let Set

Once the object is coated, use the straw to blow out any bubbles in the liquid. After that, it's a waiting game. Give the solution 24 full hours to set, harden, and fully Aquafy.

Please comment!

This is an assignment in Pedagogy II at Marlboro College Graduate Center's Teaching with Technology Master's Program ([ as part of a unit on what makes instructional technology attractive to online users.