Introduction: Light Fixtures
Please look ate linked PDF. It is far more in-depth and the images are in better quality.
Step 1: Design Development of Main Body
This will be made from MDF because it is ECO friendly also because this part of the light is not seen. The MDF is 6mm thick this will give structure as well as attaching point to the ceiling. The MDF will be painted black. I will be using fire retardant paint.I will be using brass hooks because I think it looks very steampunk as well as it being very strong. Brass is an alloy made from copper and zinc it has a high melting point which means it can't be melted with a bulb. I will be using fishing line to hold my lamp shades. The fishing line can take about 5Kg before snapping. I am concerned that the fishing line could catch on fire. I am hoping that the Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) do not produced too much heat. This is where I will place my LED bulb.
Step 2: Design Development of Shades
Metal wire which is bent into a hook will allow the fishing line to securely hold the small lamp shade as well as allow the wires to hook on to the bulb. I will be using a steel wire coated in plastic to prevent short-circuits also because steel have a high melting point.This is the living hinge which will allow the wood to bend into a lamp shade there is different types of living hinge pattern cut outs this will create different types of shadows. The living hinge will be made from 3mm ply wood and painted in heat retardant paint to prevent the wood catching on fire. I will be leaving the burnt look the wood gets from the Laser cutter because my client asked for a natural look as well as because the wood releases a strong earthy smell my client would love.This part of the light will be cut out using the laser cutter using 2Ddesigns. I will then use the drill to create holes on either side of the lamp shade then insert metal wire the Crip either end to prevent the wire falling off using pliers. Then I will use needle nose pliers to create the hook. The hook will attach to fishing line to hold the lamp shade in place.Here I was developing the look of the living hinge and how it can represent the nature embossing of the bark – this is a key consideration for my client. I have kept the ‘curve’ shape to represent the ‘tree’ and reflect it against nature and I have chosen this type living hinge just simply because it resembles a honey comb which is perfect because it like a bee hive on a tree.
Step 3: Step 1 of Build
I have marked out a sheet of Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) using a pencil and a ruler to find the center. I used a compass to create an inner and outer circle. .
Step 4: Step 2 of Build
I cut the circle out using a scroll saw. In order to cut the middle circle out I first drilled a hole using a pillar drill with a 10mm drill bit.
Step 5: Step 3 of Build
I had tried to use a coping saw but the dimensions of the circle was too big for the coping saw. instead, I removed the blade from the scroll saw to cut out the inner circle.
Step 6: Step 4 of Build
In order to close the centre hole I attempted to bend flexible ply into the hole, but it snapped so I have placed my 1mm thick flexible ply into hot water to soften the glue. I curved the flexible ply into the hole and used wood glue and clamps to close the hole. This worked perfectly. I did the same for the outer hole.
Step 7: Step 5 of Build
I sanded both sides of the light with 60 grit sandpaper. And then stained it with wood stain using a rag. Once the stain dried, I sanded it again using 60 grit sandpaper and stained it once again. This gave a rough vintage look exactly what the client is looking for. In some places I have over sanded the ply this bought out the second layer of the ply which is red this gave the wood more depth.Before this I sand the lamp casing with 60 grit sandpaper then 150 grit and then finally 200 grit. This gave the light a very smooth surface. After I stained the light I found clear patches on the wood, because this was the area where the wood glue had been absorbed into the wood and dried. Because of this failure I turned to plan B which was to sand the light with 60 grit sandpaper and then stain it and repeat this process once more. During this time I also sanded out the clear patches also during this time I used a crafting knife to make some cuts into the wood this made the light look rustic and vintage once stained.
Step 8: Step 6 of Build
I have once again used a compass, a ruler and a caliper this time to calculate the optimum distance the copper hooks had to be placed. I used a caliper to figure out what size drill bit I need (2mm) for the hooks. Then I plotted points on the light and then drilled them out using a hand drill on a slow speed (this was because I did not want to damage the wood) I used some tape to stop me from over drilling.
Step 9: Step 7 of Build
For the lampshades I programmed the laser cutter to cut out a living hinge in 3mm ply, I used Computer Aided Design (CAD) to create the living hinge on 2D design and then later in Inkscape.
Step 10: Step 8 of Build
Then I varnished the lamp shades twice using a brush. The lights are friction fitted into the lampshade. This allows the lights or batteries to be easily replaced. I have bonded the wire with hot glue this is where the fishing line will attach. I experimented by creating different types of living hinges and at different lengths and widths.
Step 11: Step 9 of Build
I first used a rough steel wool to apply a wax. I used hard wax because it is more robust, and it is longer lasting. I waxed with the grain of the wood rather than against. I chose not to use soft wax as it holds more water and is less robust. Soft wax also absorbs into the wood which means I must apply more. I applied one coat of hard wax then I waited 10 minutes for it to dry. Another coat was applied using a finer steel wool. I waited 30 minutes for it to dry, then I used a rag in a circular motion to buff the surface. Using a circular motion creates less friction. The wax melts and fills the cracks. A fine steel wool is used to remove the excess wax. The surface is buffed again. I first applied varnish rather than wax because the varnish was water based. Now there are two lines of protection. The wax makes the surface smooth and shiny.
Step 12: Step 10 of Build
I have used cura and Tinkercad to create my own mounting point. This is where the string or wire will attach to. This then will be attached to the ceiling. I have set the infill to 80% and the mesh to be triangles. I have set infill to 80% because I didn't want to waste too much time to print it or waste materials. I set the mesh to be made from triangles because triangles are the strongest shape. I have printed this out of pvc which is easy and cheap to use. I have created two sets of the same piece this is because if one was damaged or didn't print well, I could always use the second one. The print nozzle 0.4mm which made some issues because my tolerance were too small, but all went fine in the end.
Step 13: Final Look
Participated in the