Introduction: Lite3DP S1: MSLA 3D Printer, Arduino Based and Open Source
Please visit Lite3DP to find all the latest information.
Everything contained in this project is under the license Creative Commons 4.0: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa).
This project contemplates 2 ways to build your Lite3DP S1:
A) Complete Kit: the simplest way, you will only need to assemble the components of the kit. You can get the Complete Kit on Crowd Supply.
B) From scratch: you will need to laser cut metal plates, order the PCB, get the electronic and mechanical components, solder, 3D print the parts, cut the vinyls and more. In this case it is highly recommended to get the injected tray (VAT) on Crowd Supply in order to avoid any possibility of resin leakage or breakage.
Related Links:
Lite3DP Instructions and downloads
Last update: September 2021.
Supplies
Here are the bill of materials if you want to make your Lite3DP from scratch:
Attachments
Step 1: Crowd Supply Complete Kit
You will only need to assemble the kit, according to the video. Don't miss the quick start guide!
In the complete kit the Arduino board is delivered with the firmware preloaded and the stepper motor driver with the correct current.
Note: You will also need MSLA 405nm resin and a micro SD card to start 3D printing.
Step 2: From Scratch
Get the components: "Components.pdf".
Tools needed: Allen key set, hand tap thread set M3 and M4, small hacksaw for metal, cyanoacrylate adhesive, electronic soldering iron, soldering tin, tweezers.
Note: You will also need MSLA 405nm resin and a micro SD card to start 3D printing.
1) Order your PCB. (Gerber file available on Github)
2) 3D print these 3 parts in black PETg with 3 perimeters and 40% infill (no support needed): "Carriage.STL", "Base.STL" and "Support.STL"
3D print in PLA with 3 perimeters and 60% infill (no support needed) any of the three tray models. It can not be printed on PETg or ABS as the resin chemically reacts with them. As previously stated, it is highly recommended to get the injected tray (VAT) on Crowd Supply in order to avoid any possibility of resin leakage or breakage.
Tray (VAT) Model A: to make a through M3 thread.
Tray (VAT) Model B: to make a blind M3 thread.
Tray (VAT) Model C: to use M3 nuts. (add 4 M3 nuts to the list of required components).
3) Order your laser cut metal plates:
- Base in 2 mm thick aluminum.
- Platform in 3 mm thick aluminum.
- VAT frame in 1/8" (3.175mm) thick steel (ferromagnetic - to be attracted to magnets).
4) Order your electronic components and solder them on the PCB. Here is the list: Mouser. (terminals for the stepper motor: Mouser). -See: "PCB BOM.pdf"-. Read "Assembly details and instructions.pdf"
5) Order your vinyl cuts in matte black. These vinyls have the function of holding the screen to the PCB and preventing the passage of UV light. (The largest vinyl goes on the bottom of the PCB. Look at the LCD against light to apply the vinyl on its edges).
6) Glue the 9x3mm magnets to the PCB.
7) Make the threads according to the attached images (M3 and M4).
Cut the M4 threaded rod to a length of 24 mm. This is threaded and glued with cyanoacrylate to the aluminum platform. Finish assembling the platform with the ball on the other end of the threaded rod.
Place the magnet inside the carriage.
Cut the POM nut.
8) Upload Arduino firmware. Download it from Github.
9) Adjust stepper driver current to 280 - 300 mA (0,28 - 0,3 A). (Tutorial onYoutube).
10) Assemble the components according to the section: "Crowd Supply Complete Kit".
Check the official page for instructions, tips and downloads: Lite3DP
Attachments

Participated in the
Plastic Contest
11 Comments
1 year ago
Hi! Is it cheaper to just buy the kit? Or buy everything seperatly with the BOM? (considering the 3d prints are free)
Thanks for the guide!
Reply 1 year ago
Got any responses? I would love to buy it too.
Reply 1 year ago
Well, I went on LCSC and Aliexpress to fill my shopping carts with the stuff, and grand total (exept shipping) was a little more expensive.
Also know that you have to print a pcb…
Shipping to the EU is not the most costly but it does add up to the price.
IMO, Just getting the kit would be the cheapest for just one printer, but if making many, then yes the cost would come down.
I have personally not bought anything (…yet)
Reply 1 year ago
same, I found it on mouse (in Czech section complete kit for 99 dollars)
2 years ago
I made it but all component from scratch and arduino project i custom for fit in microcontroller,it is okay?
Reply 2 years ago
i made like this.
Reply 1 year ago
Could you tell me what parts you used?
1 year ago
Hi I would like to know if I can repurpose an LCD from a 2.2inch waveshare arduino lcd shield for the printer.? I am planning to make the printer from scratch with the pcb from pcpway
Question 2 years ago
Se podría dar información de la pantalla lsd que se utiliza, así del como se debe soldar al pcb
Answer 2 years ago
Utiliza una pantalla lcd normal. A la cual se le quita la parte polarizadora de la luz para que quede transparente. Y luego se pone un led Uv en la parte inferior de la máquina como proyección.
€ 4,96 | 2,2 pulgadas Compatible con TM022HDH26 TFT LCD LCM pantalla QVGA 240(RGB)* 320 interfaz de serie SPI de 320x240 píxeles para Raspberry PI
https://a.aliexpress.com/_uGSTD7
Soldar el lcd. No tiene complicación alguna si tienes conocimiento de electrónica y soldadura de estaño. Un saludo
Question 2 years ago
So, this is essentially just an ad? (With instructions) 🤔
This is definitely cool, though! 👌