Introduction: Livestock Feeder

About: Hello, I'm Niki. I like to make things and save money while I am doing it.

This is how I went about making this two part sheep feeder.


Using pallet wood, scrap corrugated iron and an old drum.

Step 1:

As always I started by cutting and pulling apart the pallets. 45 palings ended up being plenty.

Step 2:

I used a cutting disc on the angle grinder to cut the drum in half, length-ways.

Step 3:

I then cleaned up the edges with a rasp.

Step 4:

For the main structure I used the center beams of the pallet. (The stringers)

Step 5:

I made the back wall first and that is just a simple frame held together with bugle screws.

Step 6:

I use my speed square to keep all my cuts straight.

Step 7:

Pre-drill all your holes then give them a chamfer.

Step 8:

I then started laying down all the palings for the back wall.

Step 9:

Keeping the bottom edge flush.

Step 10:

To quickly mark where I wanted my holes, I used a straight edge to mark center of my top and bottom beam.

Step 11:

Once all the palings are attached, flip it over and cut your top edge flush with the beam.

Step 12:

I want the front edge of the drum to be closer to the ground to make it a little bit easier for them to eat out of.

Step 13:

I then drilled and attached the drum to the back wall.

Step 14:

Moving on to the side wall, I drilled two pocket holes on either side.

Step 15:

I wanted a decent pitch for the roof, so I made the front post a foot longer than the back.

Step 16:

Now to join your two "L" pieces together.

Step 17:

It's easier to lay one of the "L" pieces on a flat surface,

with the other one balancing on top of both your top and bottom beam.

Step 18:

And it is a bit of a juggling act
so I give the bugles a good tap with the hammer, to get them started in the correct position.

Step 19:

Now we can walk that back over to the rest of the build and attach them
at the bottom where we previously drilled our pocket holes.

Step 20:

To keep the front parallel with the back I cut two palings the same length as the base and attached them higher up.
It is now square and strong.

Step 21:

I pre-cut and drilled my side panels and used a spare paling underneath the base

to give me a flatter surface than the grass.

Step 22:

Attach two palings along the lower front to give it a cleaner finish.

Step 23:

Moving on to these side pieces, this isn't necessary, but it does hide the ugly sides of the drum.

Step 24:

For the back cut I set the circular saw at 15 degrees, and the front edge at 45 degrees,

using the speed square to keep the cuts straight.

Step 25:

Mark where you will be making your cuts.

Step 26:

Then use a jigsaw to cut them out.

Step 27:

Moving onto the roof. I attach the rafters from the inside.

Step 28:

To finish off the sides I attach a paling to the inside of the rafter to give me something to attach the side palings too.

Step 29:

I cut the back angle first, then mark where I'll cut the front edge.

Step 30:

And since the pitch of the roof remains the same you can use the off-cuts further up.

Step 31:

Moving on to the hay feeder at the back.

Step 32:

I cut 5 palings at 50 degrees.

Step 33:

Worked out my spacing and drilled two holes for each.

Step 34:

Drill your holes at a bit of an angle to allow the screws to go straight up into your palings.

Step 35:

I decided I wanted the height of the hay feeder to be the same height as the back wall.
So I held the spirit level on the back wall and marked the height onto the paling.

Step 36:

Transfer that length on to the rest of the palings and cut those at 40 degrees.

Step 37:

Attach and pre-drill a hole into each of those pieces.

Step 38:

Then bring in your joining piece.

Step 39:

The length of the roof was determined by the off-cuts of the corrugated iron.
I just needed to straighten up the edges.

Step 40:

Use tin snips or a cutting disc on the angle grinder to cut your sheets.

Step 41:

To attach the corrugated iron, I punched a nail through first to create a hole for the screws.

Step 42:

You would normally put the screws on the ridge, but the screws I have are not long enough.
And this is a feeder, not a house. So I think we will be fine.

Step 43:

Now for another unnecessary step that does nothing for the structural integrity of the feeder,

but does make it look better, is the fascia.

Step 44:

I joined these two pieces together before attaching to the feeder.

Step 45:

And then I made these little end caps. This step is crucial because it looks like garbage without it.

Step 46:

Here we have the hay cage at the top and the grain drum at the bottom.
Which also helps catch the fallen hay.

Step 47:

I really like the hay cage because it prevents them from pulling the entire thing out and stomping it into the ground.

I have more DIY farm builds over on YouTube.

And I would love to have you there ♥

YouTube Nikita Maree