Logitech X-530 5.1 Speaker Patching/repair

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Introduction: Logitech X-530 5.1 Speaker Patching/repair

About: Though hindered by a demon in my hand I constantly struggle to create ever new future gadgets to push mankind to the next level. You can talk to me about everything regarding science, history and technolgy but…

The Logitech X-530 is a 5.1 speaker system was sold by Logitech around the year 2005. This system had a great price/performance ratio – but it came with one annoying design flaw. Here is what I experienced with it:

  • Turning the volume to minimum you were able to listen to foreign shortwave radio stations
  • Switching nearby lights on/off creates a loud “popping” sound on the speakers
  • I use powerLAN in my house, therefore I heard static in the lower quarter of the speakers volume range (on the potentiometer knob) – this got louder the more I downloaded or used bandwidth

Other users experienced an additional static noise when turning the speakers louder, and so on. This affected users worldwide. Logitech first denied a flaw in their product, but had to ultimately admit it and was granting refunds.

[Sources: 1. https://forums.logitech.com/t5/Speakers/Popping-a...

2. http://jdc.koitsu.org/logitech/ (search for X-530 on the page)]

This instructable should guide you through the patching of the speaker to (at least in my case) eliminate all disturbing and unwanted noises from the speaker system.

Thanks to following sources for guiding me to the solution of this problem:

https://forums.logitech.com/t5/Speakers/x-530-buzz...

http://pinoutsguide.com/Home/logitech_x530_front_p...

Step 1: You Will Need:

  • The satellite speaker with the volume control knob on it
  • a phillips PH1 screwdriver
  • a flat screwdriver
  • a short wire
  • soldering iron
  • optional: soldering flux and soldering agent, multimeter

Difficulty level: Beginner

Time needed: 1 ½ h (including testing, dis-&reassembling)

Step 2: Disassembling

Picture 1: The satellite speaker, which has to be patched (out-of-the-box the front right one).

Picture 2: Remove the net cover carefully with the flat screwdriver. Start by prying it apart at the edges marked by the red arrows. Continue at the position of the green arrow. Advance until it comes off. Afterwards the plastic cover on the right side of the picture will come off on its own.

Picture 3: Remove the screws with the phillips screwdriver on the red arrow positions. With the help of any screwdriver you can now open the speaker.

Picture 4: The speaker inside. Note that the circuit board is place is positioned at a slight downward angle inside the speaker. The circuit board is not glued onto the housing but it hold in position by notches on the black and white part of the housing (shown in one of the last pictures).

Step 3: Patching

The patch includes connecting the ground/shield from the 15-pin HD D-sub interface to the ground/shield of the 3.5 audio jacks. The ground/shield from the D-sub interface is located on pin 10 (green cable) and pin 9 (thick black protected copper wire). It doesn’t matter which one you use, because they’re electrically connected. I recommend soldering onto the pin 9 pad, because it’s easier to reach and solder. The ground pins of the audio jacks are also connected electrically to each other.

All we need to do is to solder a wire between these in order to connect the two ground/shielding domains. For reference see the pictures below.

Picture 1: Top arrow: pin number 9 of the 15-pin HD D-sub interface; Bottow arrow: one of the audio interfaces with left (red) and right (green) and ground (black)

Picture 2: Solder pin 9 to any “G” marked pin of one of the channel.

Picture 3: The patch applied. (I admit the soldering’s not pretty)

Step 4: Reassemble

One word of wisdom here: Test the speaker before completely putting it back together. Optionally you can also check your work by a continuity test on the connectors with a multimeter.

Carefully reassemble the speaker. Note that the circuit board has to be inserted in the notches in the back and in the front.

Picture 1: Notches on the back part. These must fit onto…

Picture 2: …the notches on the circuit board.

Picture 3: Notches on the front speaker cover. The board has to fit onto these on closing it.

Step 5: Last Steps

The last steps after closing it are:

  1. Put the screws back in.
  2. Put the small plastic cover on the lower part.
  3. Put the bigger net cover on the upper part.

Have fun with you speakers again.

OR: Leave a constructive comment below if you wish to improve this instructable of if you want something to be added to it.

Here are again all steps compiled in a pretty PDF.

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    9 Discussions

    0
    bill1688
    bill1688

    4 months ago

    I've had my x530 connected to my TV since 2012. Yesterday, I noticed a buzzing noise from the x530 speakers. After some investigation, the humming only appeared when two Android TV box 5 volt power adapters were switched on. I then realised the volume control on the x530 had been adjusted. I had always set it to mid position. My little nieces who were visiting yesterday must have set it to Maximum volume.

    I observed the loud hum can only be heard when set to Min or Max volume settings. No hum in mid position. I found your instructions. Before installing the link wire, I measured about 0.7 ohm between the two pins.

    I carefully soldered a new link wire (about 3-4 cm long) without having to remove the PCB. The 'loud' hum can no longer be heard at all volume level settings on the x530 since installing the link wire.

    Thank you for sharing.

    2
    JosephY1
    JosephY1

    1 year ago

    Thank you for this tutorial! Do you happen to have the wiring schematic for the x530? Specifically the 15 pin layout. I'm trying to mod it with bluetooth. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, again.

    1
    JosephY1
    JosephY1

    Reply 1 year ago

    Thank you for your reply. I'm about to add a bluetooth device to my speaker system. Helps to have a community like this. Thanks again!

    1
    bigtweety
    bigtweety

    2 years ago

    Thank you.
    I finally stopped having heart seizures every time a light was turned on/off in another room (*POP!*).

    I had looked all over for a solution to this problem (admittedly years later), and although I found a few forums about the issue, this is the only place, which gave a solution.

    Note for others : I tried pin 10 at first and it didn't work. then I had to remove some glue to have access to some of the soldering, it ripped off 2 cables and one resistor (that glue was a pain), soldered all those back, then used pin 9 and it worked like a charm (removed 99% of the POP sound) although strangely enough (or could be my faulty re-soldering) the sub-woofer is not as loud (used to be too loud for my use anyways).

    Thanks again.
    BigT

    1
    Bojan1
    Bojan1

    2 years ago

    So far, I repair over 10 peaces of X-230 and couple of X-530 speakers. In 99% cases there was break in 3,5mm audio cable, not from external damage, it was from inside shortage, my opinion is that logitech has used too thin cables, and when you have weak sound card, or put volume down in aplication or Windows, but turn volume up on speaker potentiometer, he try to convert small mV input power to higher output, and audio cable is burned.


    This was first time that i have problem with popping sound, thanks for fix.
    Logitech has deleted official forum thread and fix from there site.

    1
    fhqwgadss
    fhqwgadss

    3 years ago

    I did it...so far so good. Thanks!

    1
    CrispyB1
    CrispyB1

    4 years ago

    Thanks Hooin, I got my set from a friend, had the same problem and this fixed it for me, very happy with the speakers again ;-)