Introduction: MAX CUT 2 Circular Saw Crosscut & Miter Jig

I have this new jig I recently built. I thought it was a unique jig to have in the shop. I wish I had this years ago when I first started experimenting with wood.

I decided to give this jig a name. I didn't put much thought into it. The first thing that came in my head was Max Cut. I named it MAX CUT 2 because I recently built one that could have used some improvement.

In this Instructable, I want to share the MAX CUT 2. If you are a visual person like myself, I have a video, as well, that goes into greater detail. I am working on a limited tools' series for the viewers on youtube to get them started. This jig is a part of that series.

Measurements for this Jig

Base 25 inches D x 32 inches L Pine Plywood

Front support 32 inches 2x2 Length Select Pine

Back Support 8 inches Length 2x2 Select Pine

Large Saw Base 4.5 x 25 inches

Small Saw Base 1 x 25 inches (2)

Fence 1 x 25 inches Miter attachment. This well vary

Links to items I used

- Adhesive Measureing Tape

- Screw Cap Covers

- T-nuts -

- E-Z lock threaded insert

Tools used

- Clamps

- Speed Square

- Framing Square

- Circular Saw

- Drill -

- Counter sink bit

- Hack saw

- Hand saw

Step 1: Cutting the Jig Base

The base of your jig can be any size you feel is necessary for your space.

I made my jig 25 x 32 inches; 32 inches will be the width of the base.

Since this is part of my limited-tool series, I also made a guide to help viewers cut a straight line with a circular saw. See video Link

Here is another circular saw guide for more advance viewers. See Video Link

Step 2: Attaching the Front Support

The front support is measured at 32 inches in length. I used a 2 x 2 for this. If you want the max depth of your saw cut, then consider using something larger than a 2 x 2. For example, you could use a 2 x 4 and rip it to meet your needs.

I used a speed square as a guide to make the cut on the 2 x 2. Clamping the speed square is recommended; this way you can focus on making a straight cut.

Now, clamp the 32-inch support along the the edge of the base. Then, flip the base upside-down (still clamped).

Add screws along the edge. Pre-drill and use a counter sink bit to flush mount the screws.

Step 3: Cut the Base for the Saw

This may vary on different brands of saws. For the large side of the base, measure from the edge of the plate to the blade guide. Don't measure all the way to the blade. Remember, you want to see through the track where the blade will touch the blade.

Now, using the saw guide, make your first cut (for my saw I made this cut 4.75 inches ). Then, take the speed square to cut this piece of wood to 25 inches in length.

Make a second cut that will also be the support for the base. This will be for the opposite side of the blade. (For my saw, this was 1 inch.) This also needs to be cut to 25 inches in length.

To make the fence, I needed to cut one more piece of wood -- also measuring at 1 inch. For the fence, we will need (2) cut-to 25 inches in length -- one for each side of the saw base.

Step 4: Attaching the Fence to the Base

Now, place the large base on a flat surface and clamp the fence to the base.

Add screws along the outside as shown in the picture. Then, do the same for the small side of the base.

Step 5: Cutting the Back Support

Raise the saw to this maximum height. Then set the saw in the track.

Square up (as shown in the picture). Then measure the back, middle, and front of the track. You should have the same measurements at all three points.

Take this measurement and cut the 2 x 2 for the back support.

Step 6: Attach the Track Guide

Set the back support on the rear of the base. Then, place the large side of the track on the two supports. I placed the track so that the saw blade sits approximately 18 inches from the end (referring to the side of where the stop block sits).

Take a 2 x 2, and clamp it down. Then take a framing square and square up the 2 x 2 to the front support. There should be no gaps in between the framing square and either 2 x 2.

Pull the large saw base to the 2 x 2, and clamp it down. One final time, check the squaring on the track to the front support. If everything looks good, clamp it down and screw it in place. Don't forget to flush the screws' heads, so they clear the base plate of the saw.

Step 7: Attach the Back Support

Attach the back support (as shown in the photos).

Step 8: Finishing Up the Saw Track

Attach the other side to the saw track. Clamp it down first. The saw should move freely without friction, but there should be no play within the track.

Screw the track in place.

Now, drop the saw blade just enough to score the plywood base. Then make your first cut.

Step 9: Adding the Miter Attachment

First thing first, the edge of reference must be straight for this to work.

Now, take the speed square and clamp it down like I have in the photo. A small square will work, as well.

Insert the 2 x 2, and clamp it in place.The 2 x 2 should be butted up on the framing square.

Take the saw and cut the attachment.

To hold the attachment in place, I used 1/4-inch bolts and t-nuts.

Drill the holes for the bolts using a 1/4-inch bit so there will be not play in the hole.

Flip the jig over, and install the t-nuts.

I ended up cutting two of the bolts so they do not exit out the back of the jig. Now, install the screws, and your jig is done.

Step 10: Quick Test

To check the accuracy, cut a piece of wood, and check your work with a framing square. It should be squared without any gaps.

Step 11: Making the Stop Block

The stop block is made from a 1 x 2 pine.

I have many pictures for this stop block. It is self-explanatory.

Thanks for checking out this instructable. Good luck with your jig!. Feel free to ask any questions.

Wood Contest 2016

Runner Up in the
Wood Contest 2016