Mackay Bed

After chatting with another understanding Father at school about how he wanted his own shed down the back to work in. I decided to deck out my shed / office down the back with a nice comfortable bed, big screen TV, sound system plus all my other bothersome hobbies. My wife often complains about my snoring, noise , smell, appearance, etc. So I thought here's my chance to make a break for it, at least to the shed.

Supplies

Pine Sleepers- 2 x 2.4m , 8 x 1.8m

Pine Decking- 6 x 2.4m

Galvanized Angel Iron 50mm x 50mm x 6m

Galvanized Angel Iron 30mm x 30mm x 3m

Galvanized Flat Strap 50mm x 1m

2 x Quality Stainless Hinges

2 x Gas support struts suitable to lift bed mattress.

Screws 40mm chip board 8g, 1 x Box

Screws 10mm metal self tapping screws

Roofing screws 40mm self tapping.

700mm Alu tube and cord for safety device.

Step 1: Design Base

First off I went to the bed shop. After laying on a multitude of overly soft mattresses, I found the right one for me solid as a rock with a little bit of cushion.

I purchased a Queen Mattress and got the measurements from the nice lady. She said it was 1530mm wide and 2080mm long. When I got the mattress and put a tape measure on it I got 1520mm wide x 2060mm long. I went with my tape measure.

I have made this base before for a King Bed. Last time I made the base 20mm bigger then the mattress and it always bothered me a little bit of wood always there. So this time I decided to make it 20mm smaller then the mattress so when I climb in and out I don't bump my knees. Also I didn't cut the bottom corners off and I should have, as I bump my knee once in a while walking past.

I was thinking of using Fusion 360 but there wasn't really anything to design. I was thinking of drawers or some nice ornamental brackets but who would ever see it or notice. If someone comes around to your house and starts looking under your bed you've got trouble.

Given I am using 200mm sleepers the base will be 450mm high above the floor. A little bit higher then a normal bed which is good for me, it stops my dog from jumping up on my bed when I'm not around. It will also allow for more room under the bed for storage or a safe hiding place if you want one.

Step 2: Cutting and Assembeling

First off because the wood was quite green and wet I left them for a week to air and dry out a bit.

Then I started cutting my top pieces to size from 4 of the 1.8m lengths. I hit the edges with an electric plane then rough sanded with a disk grinder to take off any splinters and some of the green treatment. At the end I am going to lacquer and seal the wood so if you don't get all the green of it should still be ok.

I assembled the top of the base upside down on flat concrete to make it easier to do. I didn't screw anything together I just put all the pieces out so I could pick the best faces for the outside and made sure everything looked ok.

I double checked my inside measurements then cut the sides, top and bottom pieces etc.

I also cut my inside boards from the decking timber at 1080mm.

Step 3: Making the Metal Brackets.

Next I got my 30mm angle iron and cut into 4 x 350mm lengths for the vertical base. I drilled 8 holes per piece. 4 holes on each side so that each piece of pine sleeper received 2 x 40mm screws.

I cut 4 pieces to secure the top to the base and drilled out 8 holes for them also.

I cut 5 pieces at 100mm for the bedframe to sit on and drill 2 holes in one face.

I cut 4 flat straps 100mm long to help support top edges and drilled 4 holes in each.

I also cut my 50mm Angle to suit the inside measurements ( 1610 x 1080 ). I had deducted 20mm width and length to give 10mm clearance all sides. The measurements were the same as my plan but I double checked in real life.

Then I set up on the back of my trailer and used the trailer and a set square to get the pieces sitting right. I tack welded one end flipped around did the other end then went through and welded properly. Well my best attempt at welding.

I tidied up with a grinder and sprayed with silver gal.

Step 4: Painting / Sealing the Timber

Now that I knew which face would be visible I sanded the good faces again. I found some stain and sealer down the back shed.

I applied 1 coat on all sides. At the end I will use Poly Urethane varnish to seal the top of the bed where the mattress touches the wood. I am expecting the wood to shrink over time as it dries out. Just hoping the metal brackets help with any warping.

Step 5: Assembly Time

I assembled back on the concrete same as before with my good looking sides facing out. I used a set square to set the wood in place then screwed off the brackets with 40mm screws. I used flat strap to help strengthen and align the top surface pieces.

I laid out my decking boards and used a small square to get them 90 degrees to the base. I inserted the metal frame and pre drilled the metal and screwed with 1 x 10mm chip board screw.

All the weight will be pushing straight down so the main strength needs to be in vertical support if that makes sense.

I also attached the 5 x 100mm pieces to support the frame inside the base. 4 around the sides 1 at the base.

I next attached the struts to the bed frame with the heavy duty short metal fixing screws. I used a tape measure and screwed off the strut bracket on the base adding 20mm from where I thought the strut would fix. I will attach them when I put the bed in place in the room.

I went through and wrote on each bracket and piece of wood so I could totally disassemble and reassemble in the same order without any trouble. I marked the top, TL for top left and TR for top right etc. This will make it easy when I move house or want to move to another room.

Step 6: Turning Over

Next I unscrewed the base from the top and picked it up one end and flipped over onto an off cut piece of wood. Now it was 50mm off the ground.

Then I picked up the top and flipped it over leaving the metal frame on the ground. Then I flipped the frame.

I detached the top piece of wood where the hinges will get attached. I screwed the hinges onto the metal frame first then the piece of wood that I could easily lift and get underneath it while the metal frame sat in place.

I painted the top surface with 2 coats PVA glue varnish. To keep my mattress and sheets clean from the timber stain.

Next I got help from my brother and we used some rollers to roll it into the room and into place. But as mentioned it can easily be unscrewed and re assembled pretty quickly with a screw gun.

Step 7: Safety, Safety, Safety

Danger the bed can act as a giant pair of scissors and cut off your arm or worse your head. Be very careful get someone to help you hold the frame while you attach the struts. Don't try to do on your own if something goes wrong it will hurt.

I personally always use a safety device. In this case I cut a short piece of Alu and drilled a hole in one end I used strong cord to tie it in place. It seems to work ok, hopefully I will never have to rely on it. If the struts fail the Alu will help to catch the mattress and extra weight.

The first time I used the chip board screws to secure the struts and they sheared off. Then I upgraded to heavy duty screws.

The safety of you and your family should be your greatest concern.