Introduction: Make a Viking Shield From a Wine Barrel
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About: I Exclusively Work The Renaissance Faires . Quality Of Life Not Quantity Is What 's Important.
This instructable shows the basic steps to make a viking shield from a wine barrel top and some staves. This is not a definitive guide but more a method. My usual shield base is 3/4" solid core plywood lacking a wine barrel top this is a good substitute. The spike can be cut from any hardwood a 2" x 2" x 6" piece will do.
I found the slight curvature gained by the flex in the doweled oak wine barrel top interesting when the attached to a barrel stave. The spike is removable and sheathed on the back much like a Scottish targe.
I found the slight curvature gained by the flex in the doweled oak wine barrel top interesting when the attached to a barrel stave. The spike is removable and sheathed on the back much like a Scottish targe.
Step 1: Tools and Materials
Tools
Drill and bits
Hammer
Band saw or jig saw
Razor knife
Propane Torch
Wire Brush
Leather Tools ( Not completely necessary but handy)
Strap end punches
rawhide mallet
skiver
edge beveler
saddle stitch groover
dividers
#0 Grommet setter
Materials
Hair on Cow hide
Tooling Leather 10 - 12oz.
Shearling
Latigo or Bridle leather 7 to 9 oz
Double cap rivets
Conchos
Upholstery Tacks
Copper Brads
5/8" T-nut
5/8" x 4" Hanger Bolt
Trim Screws
#0 Grommets
Titebond 3 wood glue
Old Wine Barrel Top
Wine Barrel Staves
Amber Shellac, Varnish, or a water based clear coat
Drill and bits
Hammer
Band saw or jig saw
Razor knife
Propane Torch
Wire Brush
Leather Tools ( Not completely necessary but handy)
Strap end punches
rawhide mallet
skiver
edge beveler
saddle stitch groover
dividers
#0 Grommet setter
Materials
Hair on Cow hide
Tooling Leather 10 - 12oz.
Shearling
Latigo or Bridle leather 7 to 9 oz
Double cap rivets
Conchos
Upholstery Tacks
Copper Brads
5/8" T-nut
5/8" x 4" Hanger Bolt
Trim Screws
#0 Grommets
Titebond 3 wood glue
Old Wine Barrel Top
Wine Barrel Staves
Amber Shellac, Varnish, or a water based clear coat
Step 2: Measuring & Cutting the Leather for the Front
Measure hair on cow hide 2" wider all the way around. The wine barrel top was 22 " diameter the cow hide was cut 26" in diameter.
Important , mark the center on the leather as well as the barrel top, the center index marks aid in the alignment process throughout this Instructable
The Latigo is cut at 1 1/2 " wide and placed on a 5" grid the lengths are randomly longer than needed They will be trimmed later.
The cow hide is "Petaled Out" with a strap end punch and cut on the outer line. If you don't have a strap end punch points can be cut out with a razor knife.
Important , mark the center on the leather as well as the barrel top, the center index marks aid in the alignment process throughout this Instructable
The Latigo is cut at 1 1/2 " wide and placed on a 5" grid the lengths are randomly longer than needed They will be trimmed later.
The cow hide is "Petaled Out" with a strap end punch and cut on the outer line. If you don't have a strap end punch points can be cut out with a razor knife.
Step 3: The Cross Brace
Cut the widest stave about a half inch shy of the barrel top. Bevel the edges prior to burning and brushing the stave. Finish the stave with shellac or any of the other mentioned top coats I use at least 4 coats.
My Viking / Barbarian War Hammer Instructable covers burning and brushing wood.
Find the center of the stave and drill a hole for the t-nut. The hanger bolt is threaded into the t-nut and the depth is marked with a sharpie.
My Viking / Barbarian War Hammer Instructable covers burning and brushing wood.
Find the center of the stave and drill a hole for the t-nut. The hanger bolt is threaded into the t-nut and the depth is marked with a sharpie.
Step 4: The Spike
Glue the pieces together that were left from cutting the cross brace, drill a hole the length of the marked hanger bolt smaller in diameter, centered in the glued block. This one is 1 1/2" x 2" x 6". Screw in the hanger bolt and shape the spike. The spike should fit flush to the cross brace.
Burn and brush the spike and clear coat it.
Put some contact cement on a scrap of latigo and on the bottom of the spike. When dry put them together and trim to fit. This makes a nice leather washer that insures a snug fit when threaded into the t-nut.
Burn and brush the spike and clear coat it.
Put some contact cement on a scrap of latigo and on the bottom of the spike. When dry put them together and trim to fit. This makes a nice leather washer that insures a snug fit when threaded into the t-nut.
Step 5: Front Assembly
Rivet the latigo grid down. Place and rivet decorative studs or conchos. Coat entire front of barrel lid with titebond 3 glue. Find the center of the leather and barrel lid match them and flip upside down let this dry several hours or overnight. On the back side use contact cement on both the petals of cow hide and the barrel, allow to dry and pull taught.
Step 6: Measuring & Cutting the Leather for the Back
The leather for the back is cut 2" less in diameter ( 20" ) out of latigo the center is indexed.
Use the pattern for the arm support. This is also cut out of latigo and riveted on to the back. A Shearling liner is also cut.
A sheath for the spike is made by wetting a scrap of tooling leather, forming it around the spike and clamping till it's dry. Tooling leather is used because latigo does not wet form well. The sheath is then dyed to match the back and sewn on.
Use the pattern for the arm support. This is also cut out of latigo and riveted on to the back. A Shearling liner is also cut.
A sheath for the spike is made by wetting a scrap of tooling leather, forming it around the spike and clamping till it's dry. Tooling leather is used because latigo does not wet form well. The sheath is then dyed to match the back and sewn on.
Step 7: Assembling the Back
Center Index the cross brace and screw it in from the back.
Coat the back with titebond 3 and center the arm piece leather on it. Run some additional screws through the arm piece prior to gluing on the shearling.
I riveted a hanging strap on at the last minute.
Use the dividers set at 1" to pattern out the edge for the upholstery tacks.
Trim the long latigo straps and secure them with upholstery tacks.
For all purposes this shield is done, but I wanted to try a new technique on the front for more detail.
Coat the back with titebond 3 and center the arm piece leather on it. Run some additional screws through the arm piece prior to gluing on the shearling.
I riveted a hanging strap on at the last minute.
Use the dividers set at 1" to pattern out the edge for the upholstery tacks.
Trim the long latigo straps and secure them with upholstery tacks.
For all purposes this shield is done, but I wanted to try a new technique on the front for more detail.
Step 8: Woven Celtic Knot Out of Tooling Leather
This application has a lot of possibilities. I ran some square drive trim screws at the cross points of my Celtic knot pattern. I used these screws because they keep the leather suspended above the pattern for easier weaving and the small heads allow the finished knot to be removed easily.
Cut a 1/4" strip of 10 / 12 oz. tooling leather and soak it in water for 10 minutes. Start the knot and follow the weaving pattern. Leave the ends long they can be trimmed later. Allow the leather to dry overnight before removing from the form to retain the shape of the knot. Dye the knot allow to it dry again
I used copper brads to tack the knot down ( I think they will patina nicely ). Start in the corners and tack down at all cross points.
Cut a 1/4" strip of 10 / 12 oz. tooling leather and soak it in water for 10 minutes. Start the knot and follow the weaving pattern. Leave the ends long they can be trimmed later. Allow the leather to dry overnight before removing from the form to retain the shape of the knot. Dye the knot allow to it dry again
I used copper brads to tack the knot down ( I think they will patina nicely ). Start in the corners and tack down at all cross points.
Step 9: Finished
Run some lacing through the arm piece and now the shield is done.