Hook a Book
Intro: Hook a Book
Here is another way to mount a book on a wall so that all sides can be seen.
Note: This method requires that you have the owners permission to drill a hole through the pages of his or her book. If you own the book first ask yourself, "Do I really want to drill a hole in my book?" If the answer is "No." then go find another project.
A variety of materials and forms can be chosen for this project, so long as they provide the hook and pin functions.
Note: This method requires that you have the owners permission to drill a hole through the pages of his or her book. If you own the book first ask yourself, "Do I really want to drill a hole in my book?" If the answer is "No." then go find another project.
A variety of materials and forms can be chosen for this project, so long as they provide the hook and pin functions.
STEP 1: Pick a Book
I picked a book from my old high school collection that had provided me with a few good answers but that I'm ...well, lukewarm about. Occasionally I remember something I read in it that I want to review, so joining the books I already have in plain sight on a door or wall or even on a mounting plaque will make finding it the next time a little bit easier.
The book dimensions and weight will determine how big the hole, the pin and the hook are and where the hole is drilled.
Physical characteristics
Height: 8.25"
Width: 5.25"
Thickness: 1.1875"
Weight: 1lb. 5.0z.
Numbered pages: 590
Middle page: 295 = 590 / 2
The book dimensions and weight will determine how big the hole, the pin and the hook are and where the hole is drilled.
Physical characteristics
Height: 8.25"
Width: 5.25"
Thickness: 1.1875"
Weight: 1lb. 5.0z.
Numbered pages: 590
Middle page: 295 = 590 / 2
STEP 2: Drill a Hole ...or Maybe Not
Caution: Drilling into the pages of a book is not as dreadful as it sounds so long as you avoid drilling through the print and/or the cover. Look for the page where the print comes closest to the edge of the page. If this is less that 1/4" then you will have to make a decision as to whether to drill through print, select another book or abandon this project.
If the book is worth more than $20 or (whatever amount of money is too much to replace) or there is any reason drilling into a book is a bad idea, don't use this method. Don't use this method if you are not sure. Once a hole is drilled in a book, especially in the wrong place, every page must be repaired.
Hole size
For a 1 lb. 5 oz. book, as in this example, a relatively small hole is required depending on the material used for the pin. If a stainless steel needle is used for instance all that is needed is a very small hole, not much larger than a bookworm might make. (Not the kind of bookworm that reads books but the kind that eats them.).
I decided to use 1/10" aluminum wire which is the same wire used to hold up chain link fence. That means I need to drill a hole slightly larger than 1/10". Since a 1/8" drill bit is .125" or .025" larger in diameter than the .1" wire diameter, I selected it.
Hole location
The closest print to the edge in my book was 1/2" (most margins are 1/2") so I didn't have to worry. I Subtracted one half of the diameter of the drill bit and marked this distance minus the diameter of the drill bit from the edge. (Center of hole is 1.5 drill bit diameters away from the print.)
The height of the book is 8.25" and 3/4 of the height of the book is 6.1875" so I marked this distance from the bottom (or tail) of the page.
Be sure to fold the covers back so you do not drill a hole in them. The closed covers are what secure the pin!
Also be sure to use a clamp and a guide hole. If you do not then the paper will ride the drill and who ever owns the book (including yourself) will have you for lunch!
If the book is worth more than $20 or (whatever amount of money is too much to replace) or there is any reason drilling into a book is a bad idea, don't use this method. Don't use this method if you are not sure. Once a hole is drilled in a book, especially in the wrong place, every page must be repaired.
Hole size
For a 1 lb. 5 oz. book, as in this example, a relatively small hole is required depending on the material used for the pin. If a stainless steel needle is used for instance all that is needed is a very small hole, not much larger than a bookworm might make. (Not the kind of bookworm that reads books but the kind that eats them.).
I decided to use 1/10" aluminum wire which is the same wire used to hold up chain link fence. That means I need to drill a hole slightly larger than 1/10". Since a 1/8" drill bit is .125" or .025" larger in diameter than the .1" wire diameter, I selected it.
Hole location
The closest print to the edge in my book was 1/2" (most margins are 1/2") so I didn't have to worry. I Subtracted one half of the diameter of the drill bit and marked this distance minus the diameter of the drill bit from the edge. (Center of hole is 1.5 drill bit diameters away from the print.)
The height of the book is 8.25" and 3/4 of the height of the book is 6.1875" so I marked this distance from the bottom (or tail) of the page.
Be sure to fold the covers back so you do not drill a hole in them. The closed covers are what secure the pin!
Also be sure to use a clamp and a guide hole. If you do not then the paper will ride the drill and who ever owns the book (including yourself) will have you for lunch!
STEP 3: Make the Pin
Making a pin from a length of .1" diameter aluminum wire only requires you to insert the length of wire in the hole so that the wire is flush with one side or the other and to cut the wire flush on the other side.
You can use a 12 AWG copper wire if you seal it with varnish. Over time copper begins to turn green, leaving you with a nasty stain. I have not tried a match stick or toothpick as a pin for a book this heavy - but it could very well be all that is needed for the pin.
If a larger hole is acceptable, say large enough to use a standard binding post, then you can use a steel binding post instead of aluminum or plastic so that sheet magnets can be used to hold the covers closed. Otherwise you'll have to wrap the book with a strand of clear monofilliment to keep the covers from flapping in the wind.
If you have room for a really large hole consider using these kinds of pins:
A round bar magnet can also be used as the pin and has the advantage of allowing sheet steel to be glued to the covers to hold the covers in and preventing the pin from sliding out.
Aluminum and plastic binding post already used in the book binding world to hold pages together although rather expensive considering other things you might use.
You can use a 12 AWG copper wire if you seal it with varnish. Over time copper begins to turn green, leaving you with a nasty stain. I have not tried a match stick or toothpick as a pin for a book this heavy - but it could very well be all that is needed for the pin.
If a larger hole is acceptable, say large enough to use a standard binding post, then you can use a steel binding post instead of aluminum or plastic so that sheet magnets can be used to hold the covers closed. Otherwise you'll have to wrap the book with a strand of clear monofilliment to keep the covers from flapping in the wind.
If you have room for a really large hole consider using these kinds of pins:
A round bar magnet can also be used as the pin and has the advantage of allowing sheet steel to be glued to the covers to hold the covers in and preventing the pin from sliding out.
Aluminum and plastic binding post already used in the book binding world to hold pages together although rather expensive considering other things you might use.
STEP 4: Make the Hook
I made the hook out of an old veggie can lid I got out of the trash and rinsed with water.
You can use all sorts of materials for the hook so long as it is not too thick and the slope you make can intersect with the wall, door or mounting plaque and extend upward from the intersect to a point beyond the point where the pin makes contact with and rests on the hook.
Most any angle from 30 to 60 degrees will work although there are probably formulas to determine what angle is best, i.e., what angle puts the least stress on all the points where stress is least tolerated.
You can use all sorts of materials for the hook so long as it is not too thick and the slope you make can intersect with the wall, door or mounting plaque and extend upward from the intersect to a point beyond the point where the pin makes contact with and rests on the hook.
Most any angle from 30 to 60 degrees will work although there are probably formulas to determine what angle is best, i.e., what angle puts the least stress on all the points where stress is least tolerated.
STEP 5: Mount the Hook and Then the Book
I used an Automatic Center Punch to mark the points for the mounting holes in the hook and door. You can also use a larger hand held center punch to set the shape of the hook mounting holes to the recess angle needed by a flat head screw. Doing so will help bring the book closer to the wall, door or mounting plaque to make a tighter fit.
If you do not use magnets in some form to hold the covers against the book then tie a length of clear monofilliment around the book to hold the covers closed. (You can also use a large clear rubber band.)
If you do not use magnets in some form to hold the covers against the book then tie a length of clear monofilliment around the book to hold the covers closed. (You can also use a large clear rubber band.)
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HotPinkBulb 16 years ago
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Kaiven 14 years ago
HotPinkBulb 14 years ago
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