Introduction: Making a Set of Chasing Tools
Chasing is a wonderfully effective way to add a level of artistry and sophistication to any sheet metal piece. Experienced artisans can create truly stunning forms in a wide variety of metals from brass and copper to silver and gold. the biggest barrier to entry for the hobbyist is acquiring a set of tools. large tools can be forged from silver steel, but may not be necessary for the vast majority of designs one might attempt.
You can make a set of tools for under five dollars, with common tools and a bit of patience.
Step 1: Supplies
For this project I used:
- mill bastard file
- pliers
- drill
- hacksaw
- 400 grit sandpaper
- kitchen stove
Alternatively, you could use:
- bench grinder
- angle grinder
- propane/mapgas torch
- bench vise
My material was a piece of 5mm steel rod.
Step 2: Shaping the Round Tools
For my set of tools, I made three round ones in various sizes. One had a point about the size of a pinhead, the next had a head about 2x the diameter of the first, and the last had a head about 3/4 the diameter of the rod.
If you are not using power tools, the shaping will be effectively freehand, but solid work-holding will make the process go quicker and have better a finish. I held the workpiece in a pair of pliers situated to support the work in a consistent and stable position, but if you have access to a bench vise you can use that with a set of soft jaw pads to hold the work. A stroke which rocks slightly to follow the curve of the piece can be used to achieve final round.
If you have access to power tools, each piece can be filed to round while chucked in a drill. Light passes are necessary to avoid too much side load on the drill, so I recommend doing the initial shaping freehand. This shaping will just be a quick roughing out, so you can take heavy passes to quickly establish a square taper, then shift the strokes to knock off the square corners and bring it to an octagonal cross section. This octagonal profile will come into round very quickly when turned in the drill.
Step 3: Lining Tools
I also included two lining tools in this set. These tools are basically screwdrivers with polished tips. One of the tools has about a 1/16 inch thick tip, and the other has about a 1/32 inch thick tip. Both have the corners very slightly rounded to avoid marring the work if set at a slightly off angle.
Hand filing the flat requires a stable work-holding apparatus. This is where either figuring out how to situate a pair of pliers or setting up a bench vise becomes very important to keeping a consistent surface. I shot for a roughly 15 degree taper on my tools. this keeps the tool from obstructing view of the work and allows the tool to be more versatile.
I sanded all of my tools to 400 grit, which seemed to produce an adequate surface finish.
Step 4: Tempering the Tools
Once the tools are shaped and polished, it is time to harden them. When hardened, a file will have very little effect, so make sure that the tools have the level of surface finish that you want before you start to harden them.
Situate a glass filled with water near your heat source such that you can quickly submerge your piece vertically in it.
Find a heat source that can bring at least the working end to a bright cherry red. I was able to use a gas stovetop for mine, though a propane torch or anything hotter would be even better. The key is just to get the working end hot.
When you judge that the piece is hot enough, quickly plunge it into the water. Use a swirling motion as you submerge it so that bubbles can't cling to its surface and insulate it.
After the quench, the tools need to be softened slightly to avoid shattering in use. One option, you can sand the oxidation from the surface of the tool and heat it with a propane torch until a light straw color appears, quenching it again at that point. Another option is to put it in an oven set to 300-400 degrees for thirty minutes.
And that's it. your tools are ready to use!
If you're curious about how to use these tools, check out This instructable where I go over the basics of chasing and repousse work.
Step 5: More Notes
There are many details of toolmaking which I either glossed over or didn't bring up in this article. Many things just didn't fit the scope/intent of the project. These aren't forever tools but rather a significant step up from what I was originally using, and a reasonable starter set for someone just getting into chasing/repousse.
For much more a detailed discussion on making a top quality tool, check: https://www.ganoksin.com/article/how-make-a-chasin... This page relates how to forge, polish and temper a larger tool.
I hope you found this helpful
For more projects and adventures, follow @lakecitiescraft on Instagram.
16 Comments
5 years ago
Submerging in water will make the steel fragile. It is better to submerge in oil. Be aware that this process might raise flames!!
When using a drill you can put the end of the rod through bearing for support and reducing side load
Reply 5 years ago
Your quenching medium depends on the type steel you are using. Air, oil, and water are the most common. If you’re unsure try oil first. You really want to anneal your tool as well. Clean the scale off to shiny steel again and gently reheat until you see a light straw color on your tool. This will reduce the hardness a little and the brittleness to safer levels. Striking brittle tools can fling chips. “Always remember to wear these, safety glasses. “ If you’re working copper you don’t need diamond hard tools anyway.
Reply 5 years ago
Very true. Thanks for the note! the article is updated to reflect that.
Tip 5 years ago
You neglected to mention that, after hardening the steel, you will need to temper it back to make it less brittle and prevent it from shattering. This can be done in either a regular food oven or a toaster oven, or can be done with a propane torch. Essentially, sand off the oxide on the hardened area so you have smooth, shiny metal, gently heat the area until you can start to see a gentle straw color on the metal, and as soon as you can, quench the part again. Oven settings should be 350-400F, and leave the parts in at least half-an-hour or until fully tempered.
Reply 5 years ago
Thanks for the note! The article is updated to note that.
5 years ago
Oh! You mean chasing; not chasing. However, I bet most people would flee if you started running after them with one or more of these chasing tools in your hand. In that case, they are a multi-tool.
Question 5 years ago on Introduction
Nice basic tutorial, ty! Q: what grade steel rod did you use?
Answer 5 years ago
I used galvanized steel from the hardware store, though I would NOT recommend that or use it in the future due to zinc oxide concerns. The black steel with mill scale would do better. For a complete rundown, do check out the link in the last step.
Question 5 years ago
What designs do you recomend Making as a starter set?
Thanks for the ible by the way.
Answer 5 years ago
2 stipling tools, 1 with a point about the size of a pinhead, the other about 3x larger
2 lining tools, 1 with a head 1/32 wide, the other about 1/16 wide.
All made using 3/16 steel rod.
Reply 5 years ago
Thank you.
5 years ago on Step 5
I was not familiar with the term "chasing" and you sent me to the internet. Repoussé and chasing are fascinating subjects. Nice to know you CAN teach an old dog new tricks. KJ
5 years ago
Great. I needed a simple easy Instructable on this. Planning on making a hdpe mallet with hand engraving on it. These tools would be great for that.
5 years ago
This process looks simple enough - thank you! If you happen to make something with them, I think a lot of people would appreciate a guide on how to chase metal (it's not something I'm familiar with, at least, but this Instructable piqued my interest). It's always fun to learn about new things! : )
Reply 5 years ago
Thank you, I'm planning a chasing project for the very near future. It should be up in a week or two.
Reply 5 years ago
Awesome - I'm excited to see it!