Marfusha Paper Toy Instructions + Model




Introduction: Marfusha Paper Toy Instructions + Model

About: A very hairy manchild studying illustration whilst playing around with as many different strange and intersting techniques and still trying to have a good time while i am at it (much to my tutors horror). I fi…

Marfusha. Screaming battle cries in all tongues lost.

Marfusha is one tough cookie. Whilst all the menfolk are off seeking fame and glory it's up to them to answer the call to arms and defend their homeland.

Marfusha is a series of paper toys I've been working on for about a year on and off, you can download a template for freefrom my website. With this instructable I aim to provide a visual reference for assembly and also pass on a few tips and tricks for making your own models.

Please decorate the blank model as you see fit, and send photos, I'd love to see everyone's different take on Marfusha.

Lastly, I don't mind if you share the files to other people but please attribute them back to me.
I've put a lot of work into this - over a year through moving house and becoming a father and would like to see just how far it spreads.

Step 1: Preparation

To make a Marfusha you will need:

Marfusha kit either pre-printed or downloaded and printed onto A4 cardstock (210 gsm is prefered). When printing make sure that the scaling is set to 100% otherwise it will come out too small.

Craft knife or scalpel - Please take care and enlist the help of an adult. It is possible to cut the outlines out using scissors but there are some internal parts that you need the precision of a knife to be able to get to.

Dead Biro or similar pen - this is for scoring the fold lines for a smooth build

Cutting Mat

A Ruler of some kind

Use the dead biro and ruler to score the fold lines before cutting the pieces out. All the dotted lines need to be scored so the model folds clean and accurately. Press firmly but not so much that you tear the paper. This saves hassle later on.

Cut out all white internal spaces marked with an X. Cut around the solid lines inside the arms, shoulders, body and mask. If you do this later on and your knife isn't absolutely sharp, you run the risk of tearing the part.

Cut the along the lines of the asterisk on the arms. it's better to get these done before the outline for the same reason.

Now cut out the parts following the solid lines. Take care of your limbs! Cut towards yourself with your hands holding the paper above where the knife is and remember that it's easier to rotate the card than to cut in a different direction. Use smooth movements and if you are having to apply a lot of pressure to cut through the card, you probably need to change your blade.

When folding the lines, continuous dots means a mountain fold (fold down) and the dots and dashes mean a valley fold (fold up)

Use Glue Sparingly - seriously, go light on it. Too much will result in warping and a very slow drying time. I find putting a thin bead on the flap and then applying even pressure on either side of the join ensures that the parts bond firmly. Wipe away excess glue from the surface quickly as it will dry shiny.

Step 2: Making the Mask

Fold all the lines before gluing, ensuring the fold goes right to the corners of the flaps so that they don't catch on the part above and make a gap.

Start by gluing either side of the ears together, pausing between each holding the join together to make sure it's joined.

When you are confident that the ears are set (it will take a while for the glue to dry fully), fold the front part down and glue it to the sides.

Step 3: Joining the Body and Attaching the Arms

Prefold the front (not completely back on itself) and then glue to the top part of the body. You want both patterned (right) sides to be facing the right way.

Prefold the arms and fold flat again.

Place the arm pieces over each of the lower holes on the body, right side facing right side and align so the asterisk is visible.

Place the shoulder ring over the hole on the wrong side of the body and fold the asterisk pieces back on themselves through the hole so they are touching the shoulder.

Apply glue to the top of the shoulder and press the asterisk flaps of the arms into the glue so they stick down. When they have set after a while, rotate the arms so that it is still able to move freely and not stuck to the body. If so, loosen with craft knife.

Repeat with the other arm and wait for the glue to dry. You probably need a brew by now if not something stronger.

Step 4: Finishing Off the Arms

Turn the body back over and fold the arms back up. Apply glue to the nearest flaps first and fold the long strip around them, putting pressure on to make sure it bonds to the flaps.

After the glue has set, glue the rest of the flaps and fold the strip upto the top, holding it in place with your fingers until it grips.

Rinse and repeat with the other arm.

Step 5: Making the Eyepiece

Prefold the lines so you know how the piece fits together. The eyepiece is a long hexagonal tube that will be the pivot for the mask on the body.

Turn it over and apply glue along the sides of the long end of the midsection. Fold the ends in so they are at 90 degrees and then roll the tube up so the flaps are overlapped. Hold until the glue sets.

Finally apply glue to the back of all three sides of the remaining flap and press down to complete the tube. You can fasten an elastic band over the tube to hold it in place whilst the glue dries.

Step 6: Finishing Off the Body

By now the arms should be reasonably dry and you can handle the body without them coming undone. Prefold all the lines to get a feel of how it goes together before gluing.

Starting at the bottom (literally) glue the flaps to the back of the body, pausing to make sure the glue is set at each one. You don't have to glue both sides at once as it might become too many places to be applying pressure on all at once.

Follow the curve of the back, gluing the sides to the back until you reach the top, and then continue up and over. when it comes to the front, you should be able to glue all the flaps on one side at once.

Step 7: Putting It All Together

Place the body right side up and put the mask over it, making sure that the eye holes are aligned.

Now take the Eyepiece and gently wiggle it though one side of the body and out of the other. Be extra careful pushing it out the other side as it might catch and tear so easing it out with a knife is advised.

You now have a Marfusha, primed and ready for action. Now onto the weapons...

Step 8: Weapons - Candy Cane

Cut out the candy canes and prefold.

Starting at the long end, glue the sides and bottom to the long straight piece. When that has set glue the last part over so the bottom is a sturdy tube.

Work your way up the spine, glueing the flaps under the long part until you reach the end.

Step 9: Weapons - Axes

Fold the axe handle into a tube. Apply glue to the edges and roll up, tucking the ends in. Set aside to dry.

Gently fold the axe blade in on itself. Glue the end cap to the side it's attached to.

Now glue the blade sides together along the cutting edge. Wait for it to set and then glue the top and bottom parts to make a triangle. Leave the flap unglued so you can put the axe handle in.

Put glue on either side of inside of the axe blade and the last flap and place the handle inside making sure it the blade isn't right at the top of the handle. Hold until set.

Step 10: Weapons - Pistols

Remember to cut out the blank space on the pistol top. Prefold both parts.

Take the pistol and working from one end glue the edges to the side they are attached to until you've done the reached the other side. Fold the other side over and glue down

Fold the pistol top around onto itself, glueing in stages.

When the pistol body is dry, very carefully cut along the green line. This is to recieve the pistol top.

Slot in the pistol top and blast away!

Step 11: Weapons - Swords

The final weapons and perhaps the hardest ones to make.

Prefold both parts.

With the sword part, start by glueing the two sides of the cutting edge together. Work from the bottom to the tip.

Next fold the handle around and glue into place, making sure to tuck the bottom in.

When that is done, work up the back of the blade tucking and gluing the flaps in. Finish at the top.

Fold the crossguard up and glue the ends to the sides, so that the long side is still free to move around.

Place a blob of glue on the inside of the corssguard on both sides and the end of the remaining flap and place the sword inside before closing up. Make sure that the crossguard is at the top of the rectangular section or Marfusha can't hold it properly.

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    Reply 7 years ago on Introduction

    The files are now available to download from my website!


    Reply 7 years ago on Introduction

    I 'aint dead, life just got a bit more ... complicated O_O I do need to put these online but message me which one you want and I'll send you a link for now


    7 years ago

    How curious. Hopefully this will distract me for a few hours.


    10 years ago on Introduction

    They're CUTE! Is this from a series of some or something u just made up?


    Reply 10 years ago on Introduction

    Cheers, they're a series I made up myself. My starting points were historical warrior women, a rabbit called Marfusha (little martha) that was sent into space as part fo the russian space program and the Jean-Marie Tjibaou cultural centre in New Caledonia designed by Renzo Piano... bit of everything really O_o