Introduction: Master Blaster 3000
This is an easy, sectional, step by step manual on how to properly build and assembly your very own Master Blaster 3000!
Step 1: Base Plates
a. Take the ½ in piece of pressure treated plywood and draw out a 14in diameter circle. Be sure to have two circles drawn out as you will need to have two base plates.
b. Using a table saw, cut out a square section around the circle giving you a smaller, easier section to work with.
c. Next, take the square section and slowly cut out the circle using a band saw. Tip: (Leave more material on the outer edge rather then cut into the circle)
d. Next, using the belt sander, sand down the circle to that perfect 14in diameter.
e. Take the base plate and using the center point you used to draw the circle, draw out 5 equally spaced radii to the outer edge
f. Use the geometry to draw out 5 equally spaced 3.5in diameter circles around the base plate, leaving ½ in of space from the outside edge of each circle to the outer edge of the baseplate.
g. Next, take a 3.5in hole-saw and cut out the 5 holes on each baseplate.
h. Sand/file the holes as necessary to obtain a smooth cut.
i. Lastly, using a 0.4in drill bit, drill out the center hole
Step 2: Barrels
a. Take the 3in PVC pipe and mark out 5, 10in sections, leaving approximately ½ in of space between each section
b. Using a circular saw, cut out the sections
c. Next, use the belt sander to obtain those perfect 10in sections
Step 3: Frame Construction
a. Cut two 2x4 into three parts, 2 six inch parts and one 3 foot part
b. Cut 4 ½ inch deep ½ inch hole down the center of the front end of your 3ft 2x4 (to fit the metal bar into the board along the length of it).
c. Cut ½ inch hole 4 inches along the front of the 3ft board to cross through the previous hole.
d. Cut a small hole a half inch down the end of the steel rod.
e. Slide the steel rod down into the hole in the end of the 3ft long board
f. Forcefully insert nail into the hole in the steel bar
g. Next, draw out desired ergonomics into the bottom of the frame
h. Cut and sand as needed
Step 4: Lady Susan Assembly
a. Take the first baseplate, slide it onto the rod, and flush it up to the lazy susan.
b. Next, mark the holes with a pencil using the outline from the holes on the lazy susan
c. Take the baseplate off of the rod and drill the holes with the appropriate bit.
d. Next, put the baseplate back onto the rod and bolt the baseplate to the lazy susan using the bolts and nuts.
Step 5: Ratchet/Tooth Assembly
a. Take the washer and ratchet and slide them over the rod to butt up against the baseplate.
b. Using the hole in the sleeve of the ratchet, take the appropriate bit (the size of the hole) and drill through the rod.
c. Take the bolt and nut and secure the ratchet gear onto the shaft.
d. Next, mate up the tooth perfectly to one of the teeth in the gear as if it were clicked in place.
e. Mark the hole on the baseplate using the hole in the tooth and drill the hole
f. Fasten the tooth to the baseplate with a nut and bolt
g. Take a screw slightly larger than the second hole in the tooth and screw it into the tooth
h. Next, take the spring, attach it to the screw and pull it across the ratchet gear until you start to feel the tension.
i. Take another screw and fasten the spring to the baseplate at that point.
j. Finally, unhook the spring from the screw, navigate it around the gear, and re-hook it onto the screw.
Step 6: Barrel Assembly
a. Take the 5 barrels and fit them into the baseplate attached to the frame, leaving approximately ¾ in of barrel space through the back.
b. Next, fit the second baseplate onto the rod and barrels, securing a tight fit.
c. Finally, glue the ends of the barrels to the second baseplate.
Step 7: Rubber Stopper
a. Measure the diameter of the retracting tube and drill a hole through the center of the stopper slightly smaller than the diameter you measured.
b. You will need to sand down the smaller end of the stopper as needed. The end goal is to have it able to mate up with the inside of the barrels, providing a tight seal.
Step 8: Air Tank Delivery System
a. Cut out a 10in section of 3in PVC for the air tank
b. Take the 3in PVC cap and drill a small hole through the back ( Just large enough to fit a bike nipple )
c. Secure the bike nipple with epoxy through the back end so it is facing out of the cap.
d. Next, use epoxy to secure the cap to the back of the PVC tank
e. Take the other cap with the adapter and epoxy it to the other end of the tank
f. FOR ALL CONNECTIONS UP TO THE RELEASE VALVE, USE EPOXY
g. Next, using the 1.5in adapter and the male/female adapter, secure the release valve, ( all together 3 parts)
h. Take the 1in slip to thread adapter and retracting tube and fasten them onto the other end of the release valve
i. Approximately 2in from the end of the retracing tube, drill a ½ in hole perpendicular through it.
j. Secure a ½ in bolt, approximately 4in long, through it with caulk.
k. Take the 3D printed bolt sleeve and secure it over the top of the bolt.
l. Take the rubber stopper and fit it over the end of the retracting tube
Step 9: Tank-Frame Assembly
a. Line up the air tank delivery system on the Frame so that the end of the stopper is completely mated up to the front barrel. This should be done with the bolt in the forward position.
b. Next, Cut out a small block of wood that will fit under the 1in slip to thread connector. This is for support reasons
c. Using wood glue, secure this piece under the slip to thread, onto the frame
d. Using the metal strap, fasten the air tank delivery system onto the frame. This should be strapped 4 times: once where the wood block is, and three separate times across the actual air tank.
e. Using screws, tighten the strap to the frame and cut off the excess material.