Introduction: Meshtastic Harbor Breeze Solar Node

I've seen a number of solar node builds using the Harbor Breeze solar garden light, and I just wanted to share my version since I took a bit of a different approach. For starters, I don't currently have access to a 3D printer, so I wanted to use easily obtainable and workable materials. I also wanted to keep it as simple as I could while still being functional. One of my goals was to mount the antenna separate from the solar enclosure primarily so I could mount one straight and not have to rely on a hinged antenna, since they lose efficiency as you articulate them.

There are a few steps I took that I will likely approach differently on a future build. I just rolled with the ideas that came to mind, but I'm definitely not blind to knowing that there are probably much simpler or easier ways to accomplish a similar end result.

I've tried to include links to the all the specific materials I used, but none of them are affiliate links. They're simply just for reference so that someone else could replicate the build if they wanted to.

Supplies

  1. Harbor Breeze Solar Light from Lowes: https://tinyurl.com/mwarrsff
  2. RAK WisBlock 19007: https://a.co/d/bSOzzim
  3. 12" IPEX to SMA cables: https://a.co/d/edUR2OX
  4. 915mHz antenna: https://a.co/d/3cwjyz8
  5. JST PHR-2 2.0mm connectors for battery: https://a.co/d/2wdG9In
  6. 1/2" PVC pipe and fittings
  7. Tee x1 - https://tinyurl.com/mr25a3nu
  8. End cap x3 - https://tinyurl.com/yf53n97b
  9. 2' pipe - https://tinyurl.com/34a59prp
  10. Permatex Silicone Sealant: https://tinyurl.com/2chj5caz
  11. 2.5x2.5" corner brackets: https://tinyurl.com/32jxwvk2
  12. Metal connector pieces: https://a.co/d/bEiCyuw
  13. M4 screw kit: https://a.co/d/hRZeNRB


Tools I already had on hand

  1. Soldering iron and accessories
  2. PVC cutter
  3. Drill
  4. Dremel
  5. Spray paint

Step 1: Prep Solar Panel

Unscrew the light from the solar panel enclosure and cut the wires leading to it. I attempted to desolder the wires from the charging board, but it was my first attempt at desoldering so it was not very clean. You could probably just snip them as flush as you can to the board and cover up with electrical tape

Solder JST connector to battery holder tabs

  1. Pay attention to polarity on RAK board (see image, this came as a little card in the box with the WisBlock). I had to solder the black wire to the positive tab and the red wire to the negative tab. You could also switch the wire leads in the connector instead, but it didn't really bother me enough to do that this time.

Step 2: Starting With the PVC Mount

Cut 1" sections of inner pipe for connectors.

Step 3: End Cap for SMA Cable

Drill 1/4" hole in the center of one end cap. I filed/sanded the top down a bit flatter to allow more protrusion for the SMA adapter, but that may not be necessary.

Step 4: Cutout for Solar Enclosure Connection

Insert 1" pipe connector into another end cap and cut out rectangular hole in the side for metal connector assembly. I just used a drill and a Dremel, but it could probably be much cleaner if I had something like a Dremel press

Drill through-hole perpendicular to rectangular hole for the M4 screw

Step 5: Assembling the Connector Piece With SMA Cable

I mounted the SMA end of the cable to the end cap then put it in place to see where the cable needed to sit in the assembly. I wanted to err on the side of having the extra cable slack be inside the solar enclosure instead of the PVC mount.

I then sandwiched the cable between four metal connector tabs (two on each side) and four M4 washers (two for each screw hole between the connector tabs). This provided the width needed to fit the mount on the back of the solar enclosure.

I'm sure there's a much simpler solution than this, maybe something could be 3D printed. This way was actually a pain to get everything to line up and stay in place (especially the little washers) while assembling. I tried super glueing the washers in place but they still ended up slipping around before I finished assembling.

Note: Whenever I build another one I might try going straight into the end of the end cap instead of through the side/top. I feel like that would end up being easier and cleaner.

Step 6: Mounting the Bracket

Place another 1" long pipe connection into another end cap and mount to the back. Then I used short (I think 1/2") screws to mount the bracket to the bottom of the PVC mount assembly.

Note: I'm not sure if a stronger bracket might be needed later on. With the unit being as light as it is I think it will be fine, but depending on longer term performance I may switch to something else later, if necessary.

Step 7: Paint and Seal

Once it was all assembled I sealed up the gaps and holes with silicone sealant, let it cure for 24 hours, then spray painted (I used paper and masking tape to cover up the solar enclosure and SMA connector when painting).

Note: Next time, I will paint the whole PVC mount first before adding any of the attachments or sealant to it, then I won't need to worry about covering anything for the painting process. Also, the paint doesn't stick super well to the silicone sealant.

Step 8: All Finished Up!

This is what it should look like when it's all done!