Introduction: Metal Hammock Stand - Easy to Make With Limited Tools.

About: Everything is a process of making.

Another fast and simple to make project, this time for people who like to lie be swinging by the wind. But first we have to work and do it.

To view the process of making my metal hammock stand in motion, watch the video above, and if you like it, you can subscribe to my YouTube channel.

Step 1: Materials & Tools


  • 40 x 40 mm (1 1/2 x 1 1/2 in) metal tube with at least 2 mm (5/64 in) wall thickness,
  • 40 mm (1 1/2 in) flat bar,
  • 60 mm (1 3/16 in) flat bar,
  • 2 metal hooks,
  • paint,
  • the hammock would have been nice.


  • angle grinder, cutting disc and grinding disc.
  • optional chop saw or band saw allowing for cutting at a repeatable angle,
  • welder,
  • paintbrush.

Step 2: Design

I designed the frame so that it is as simple as possible. The construction consists only of cutting, welding and grinding. You can download the blueprints in the MHS.pdf file, feel free to modify them. If you want greater strength, use larger profiles (eg 50 x 50 mm), if you are worried about stability, you can cut longer leg sections.


Step 3: Cutting

Ok, first we have to measure and mark the cutting farme and legs sections with an angle. If you have a chop saw or band saw, you only set the angle once. If you cut the material with an angle grinder, you will have some more fun.

On the video at 0:31 is an error, the correct cut angle is 80.5 degrees.

After cutting, all edges are gently chamfered with a grinder to remove cutting "things" and prepare the material for welding.

Step 4: Shape, Welding and Grinding

Now we have to shape our frame, big almost flat :P concrete floor will be perfect. If the dimensions of the arc are consistent with the design, we start welding. First you have to tact all four corners on each connection of metal tube sections, this will prevent excessive warping of the material during welding. We do the same with leg sections.

When we're done it's the best time to grind our welds, except those inside of the arc will be more convenient to do it when the frame stands on their own feet.

Step 5: More Welding...

Now place the arch of the stand with the clamps in a vertical position, I used the frame of the workbench for this. The bottom of the stand should be 4 cm higher than its target height (explanation later).

Next, we measure and mark the places where the legs will grow ;) on the stand. We apply the leg in the marked place so that the lower side of the end of the tube contacts flat with the arch, the other end of the leg should touch the floor. Using the side of the arch as a guide, we draw a line on both sides of the leg. Cut the end of the leg evenly with these lines.

After applying the foot again, we repeat the process tact and welding.

Step 6: Feet And... More Welding!

Now our previous 4 cm will clear up. We set our stand on a straight surface, applying to the leg the waste of our profile lying flat on the floor, then using it as a guide draw lines parallel to the floor. We repeat it on each side of each leg. We can now cut the ends of the legs nicely and flat.

After this, place the pieces of the flat bar under each leg. We set them straight by applying a long piece of a flat bar.

And... tact and welding, tact and welding, tact and welding, tact and welding.

Step 7: End Caps and Hooks

The two smaller pieces of the flat bar will serve as end caps for the top of the stand. Yep, tact and weld...

As hooks, I used thick metal loops screwed on to the... screws. I just had it in the workshop, so I used it. I cut the loop sections at its base and voilà! We have hooks!

Ok, now we have to tact and welding them.

Step 8: Finish

We are already close to great laziness. All welds have to be polished. During the welding of the tubes we created chambers that are not necessarily sealed, therefore in the lowest points it is best to drill small holes. Thanks to this, all the moisture that gets inside the structure will have to get out. Otherwise, during freezing temperatures frozen water can distort the tubes and even lead to cracks.

Now we have to clear everything, then apply the undercoat and paint in your favorite color! I wanted green... something went wrong.

Step 9: Reptile Is Coming...

...and he is red.

A big thank you to ILTMS Crazy Face and Fromona!

Step 10: Sweet Shots