Introduction: Metal Rose
ive been making these for a little over a year now and blacksmiths, copper smiths, and tin smiths alike have been using this method for hundreds of years. I think im ready to share them on here finaly
Step 1: Materials
the name "rose metal products" is just a coincidence as far as i know
remember you don't have to use what i use here, i started out using old soup cans and wire but these do make them look better
- 3/16" copper rod- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H9P66W/ref=o...
- one of the folowing:
- brass- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I8VSTX8/ref=o...
- mirror polished stainless steel- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QQZIBHW/ref=o..
i would recommend brass for a beginner as it is much easier to cut and a scratch is less noticeable
Step 2: Template
there are plenty of free templates out there, but if you want to sell them you will have to get permission or make your own, i found a rose that i liked, took it apart, traced out various pedals, modified and arranged them in Photoshop and then made modifications as needed
in starting here is a template i can recommend:
Step 3: Cutting
trace the template on a sheet, drill your holes (i use a sheet metal drill bit cause it leaves very clean holes) grab some gloves and a good pair of tin snips and you should end up with these boat propeller looking things.
Step 4: Attaching
slide your pieces on the rod, if they decide to be difficult lay them on a socket and hit the stem with a hammer, make sure your rod is not mushroomed or all you will do is dent your piece. once there all on make sure you have at least 1/2" to 1" of rod poking out, then put it in a 1/4" socket and peen it out
Step 5: Bending
up until now this has been almost the exact same as many other rose instructables but now comes what i found to be the tricky part, bending the rose without scratching the beauty out of them, here are some tips
Step 6: First Layer
using a gloved hand or some high leverage needle nose pliers bend up the 2 little pedals then using the pliers give them a bit of a "C" shape this may scratch them slightly but if your careful you can hide it next i use a mallet to close them in on each other but you could also use some normal pliers, it will scratch more though
Step 7: Second Layer
with a gloved hand pull up the next 3 pedals and you should be able to give them all a little bit of curl with your fingers, take the pliers and make it tighter then a mallet or channel locks and squeeze it tight, then take the needle nose and bend the tops down slightly (~3/16")
Step 8: 3rd Layer
you can still bend up the pedals with your hands but you may need some help cupping them squeeze them gently with your pliers while pushing out, tighten it up and bend the tops down (if your Slip Joint Pliers have flat jaws at the tip use them)
Step 9: 4th Layer
follow the same steps as the 3rd layer, the only difference may be that when you bend the tops down it may flatten the pedal so you will have to go back and forth with it till you get it where you want it
Step 10: Last Layer
you may want to try cupping the pedals first on these i use the mallet again but if you bend it in width wise first instead of length wise as done previously it will be easier, this one really likes to fight when the top is bent down but if you work with it for a while it will give in
Step 11: Securing the Sepal
on stainless i have to just glue them together, and it works just fine but i am looking into other methods, just make a circle arround the stem, hold the copper sepal tight for a few seconds then stick it in a bottle to dry
Step 12: Done
well thanks for viewing im thinking i might stick this one up on etsy and ill post a link when i have in the man time, be safe have fun
wow that took longer than i thought:

Participated in the
Metal Contest 2016
14 Comments
Question 4 years ago on Introduction
I love it. I’m guessing that’s mirror finish stainless. What gauge are you using? Also I’m in the process of doing a stainless steel ivy. I’ve done sections of a tree before with great success. I would like to do some other flowering plants as well. Thanks
6 years ago
Very Nice Rose
6 years ago
They are Beautiful!
6 years ago
You could also try a layer or two of heat shrink tubing on the end your pliers to protect the surfaces. It's quick, simple, cheap and removable.
Reply 6 years ago
I like it, before posting this I was about ready to give up on making them scratch free and just look for an easy way to polish them but I guess ill try a few more things first
6 years ago
very nice
Reply 6 years ago
Thank you
6 years ago
you could cut the tips off of that rubber glove, or a spare one, and put it over the pliers so they dont scratch the metal.
Reply 6 years ago
There actually leather but that's not a bad idea
6 years ago
you could use nylon jaw pliers to avoid scratching. you can find them in the jewelry making section, but make sure to get a sturdy pair. :)
Reply 6 years ago
Hmm I'll have to look for some, a friend of mine recommended dental pliers but they are EXPENSIVE
6 years ago
I have found when working with Anodized Al maille work that covering the pliar jaws with a layer or two of masking tape cuts down on scratches in the metal.
Reply 6 years ago
it also has my vote!
Reply 6 years ago
Thank you, I tried masking tape a time or two but it left a residue that was difficult to remove