Introduction: Mini Lathe Bench

By
About: Canadian Craftsman

Mini lathes are incredibly capable, but most of them come with one problem right out of the box: nowhere solid to put them. I didn’t want my lathe living on a flimsy table or fighting vibration every time I turned something small, so I built a compact, heavy-duty bench specifically for a mini lathe.

This bench is made from basic construction lumber, requires common tools, and is designed to be rigid, stable, and easy to build in a small shop or garage. It’s sized to keep the lathe at a comfortable working height while leaving room for storage underneath for tools and accessories.

In this Instructable, I’ll walk through the full build step by step — from planning and cutting to assembly and final setup — so you can build a solid mini lathe bench of your own without overthinking it.

Supplies

Lumber

  1. 4×4 boards – legs & feet
  2. 2×4 boards – upper and lower frame
  3. 1×4 boards – shelf and shelf supports
  4. 1-3/4" maple – benchtop
  5. 1/2" wood dowels
Note: Lumber lengths will depend on your desired bench height and footprint.

Fasteners & Hardware

  1. Wood screws (for structural joints)
  2. 1¼"–1½" wood screws (for plywood top and shelf)
  3. Lag screws to mount feet to the frame
  4. Wood glue

Tools

  1. Miter saw
  2. Drill with necessary bits
  3. Pocket hole jig
  4. Flush cut saw
  5. Paint brush
  6. Clamps
  7. Socket wrench
  8. Measuring tape
  9. Planer
  10. Table saw
  11. Nail gun

Optional / Nice-to-Have

  1. Rubber feet or anti-vibration pads
  2. Leveling feet(especially for uneven shop floors)
  3. Casters(if you want mobility)
  4. Finish (paint, polyurethane, oil, etc.)

Step 1: Design

Before cutting any lumber, I designed the bench in AutoCAD to work out proportions, overall dimensions, and structure. This helped visualize the build, confirm clearances for the mini lathe, and ensure the bench would be rigid enough to minimize vibration.

The design started with determining the ideal working height, which was based on comfortable standing operation at the lathe. From there, I laid out a simple but strong frame using common construction lumber, focusing on wide stance legs, solid cross-bracing, and a thick top to support the lathe’s weight.

The model is used to verify:

  1. Leg spacing and footprint
  2. Top overhang and lathe mounting area
  3. Clearance for a lower shelf
  4. Overall rigidity and symmetry

Nothing fancy here — the goal was to create a clear plan that could be easily followed during construction and adjusted if needed. Having the design done ahead of time made the build faster, cleaner, and more predictable once I moved into cutting and assembly.

Step 2: Cutting Lumber to Size

With the design finalized in AutoCAD, the next step was cutting all the lumber to size. I pulled the dimensions directly from the CAD drawings, which made this part straightforward and eliminated guesswork during assembly.

All cuts were made using a miter saw, which helped keep everything square and consistent. Each component was measured and marked based on the model — legs, frame members, stretchers, and shelf supports. Taking the time to cut everything accurately at this stage helps keep the bench square and speeds things up later when it’s time to assemble.

In addition to the construction lumber, I also cut down a maple slab that I picked up from Facebook Marketplace. It was salvaged from old countertops and worked perfectly for this build. The slab was ripped to width on the table saw and then cut to length on the miter saw to match the dimensions from the CAD model.

I recommend:

  1. Cutting pieces in batches (all legs first, then frame members, etc.)
  2. Labeling each piece as it’s cut
  3. Dry-fitting parts as you go to confirm everything lines up with the design

Notching the Lumber (Miter Saw Method)

Some of the joints in this bench required simple notches, which I cut using a standard miter saw instead of a table saw or router. This is a quick and accurate method when you’re working with construction lumber and straight, square notches.

To do this, I first marked the width and depth of the notch directly on the workpiece using measurements pulled from the CAD drawing. The miter saw depth was then set to the required notch depth.

With the saw set, I made a series of closely spaced vertical cuts across the width of the notch, stopping at the depth line each time. Once the waste material was fully kerfed, it was removed with a chisel, leaving a flat-bottomed notch.

A light cleanup pass with the chisel ensured a tight fit before assembly.

This method is fast, repeatable, and works well when you don’t need fine joinery — perfect for a sturdy shop bench where strength and alignment matter more than appearance.

Once all the lumber was cut, I lightly cleaned up the ends and edges to remove splinters and ensure tight joints during assembly.

At this point, everything is ready to move on to building the frame.


Note: I laminated two 2×4s to make each 4×4 leg instead of using solid posts. In my area, untreated 4×4 lumber isn’t readily available, and most stores only carry pressure-treated 4×4s. Laminating 2×4s was an easy workaround and results in a strong, stable leg once glued and fastened.

Step 3: Assembling the Frame

Frame assembly started with the lengthwise members. I pre-drilled pilot holes, followed by countersunk holes, then assembled the joints using wood glue and wood screws. After installing the first fastener at each joint, I checked for square before driving the remaining screws to lock everything in place.

Once the frame was secured, I flush-cut the dowels and cleaned up the joints to keep everything flat and even.

Next, I installed the widthwise stretchers (stringers). These were attached using pocket holes, wood screws, and glue. Clamps were used to pull everything tight and keep the frame aligned while fastening.

Throughout the process, I checked for square and flush joints as I went. Taking the time to assemble the frame carefully here makes the rest of the build go much smoother and ensures the bench stays rigid and stable.

Step 4: Initial Sanding

Once the bench components were assembled, I did an initial sanding to clean up edges, break sharp corners, and remove any glue squeeze-out. This also helps the finish go on evenly and keeps the bench comfortable to work around.

Step 5: Installing the Feet

To install the feet, I first marked their positions and drilled pilot holes with countersunk heads to ensure the fasteners would sit flush. Wood glue was applied at each joint before fastening to add strength and reduce movement over time.

The feet were then secured using lag screws, pulling everything tight and locking the legs firmly in place. Once installed, the bench sat solid and stable, with the added benefit of improved load distribution and durability at the base.

Step 6: Adding a Shelf

To add the lower shelf, I first installed ledge boards along the inside of the frame. These were set to the depth of a 1×4, then glued and nail-gunned to the stringers/stretchers to create a continuous support ledge.

Once the ledge boards were in place, wood glue was applied along the top surface. The 1×4 boards were then laid into position to form the shelf and secured with a nail gun.

This creates a simple, strong shelf for storing tools and accessories while adding rigidity to the overall bench.

Step 7: Apply Finish

Before final assembly, I applied Golden Oak polyurethane to both the frame and the top while they were still separate. Pre-finishing the parts made it easier to reach all surfaces and ensured even coverage.

Once the finish had fully dried, the build was ready for final assembly and installation of the top.

Step 8: Final Assembly

Once the finish had dried, the top was installed onto the frame using wood glue and pocket screws around the perimeter. Glue was applied to the frame, the top was set in place, and clamps were used to pull everything tight and keep it aligned during fastening.

Pocket screws were driven evenly around the perimeter to secure the top while maintaining a clean appearance with hidden fasteners.

Step 9: Mount the Lathe

With the bench fully assembled, the mini lathe was positioned on the top and aligned to the desired working location. The mounting holes were marked, then pilot holes were drilled through the benchtop.

The lathe was secured using bolts and washers, pulling it tight to the bench to ensure a solid, vibration-free setup. Once mounted, final alignment was checked and all fasteners were tightened.

Securing the lathe directly to the bench greatly improves stability and makes a noticeable difference during operation.

Step 10: Bench Complete

With the lathe mounted, the bench is complete. The finished setup is solid, stable, and purpose-built for a mini lathe, with added storage below and a comfortable working height.

If you’re interested in more shop builds, restorations, and DIY projects, feel free to check out and subscribe to my channels:

  1. Deus Golf Co. – golf-related builds, restorations, and shop projects
  2. https://www.youtube.com/@deusgolfco
  3. Kramer Design Co. – general fabrication, woodworking, and DIY builds
  4. https://www.youtube.com/@kramerdesignco


Thanks for checking out the build — hopefully it helps you create a solid bench for your own mini lathe.