Mini Table Saw Crosscut Sled




Introduction: Mini Table Saw Crosscut Sled

Ever since I let my buddy use my older table saw in his shop, I’ve been meaning to remake a sled for my new one. As mentioned in the video, I have a larger sled. It’s a nice one from Rockler , the problem is it’s big and take up space when not in use. Not to mention, it’s usually not as easy to get to. To cut down on the hassle of taking it out for smaller parts, building this smaller version will allow me to have it close to the table saw.

Materials Used

Tools Used

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Step 1: Cut the Lumber

This sled is made entirely of ¾ in plywood. Here you can see the see all of the measurements.

Step 2: Make the Slot for the T-Track

To cut out the section for the t-track will need, you can go about this a number of ways. I find it easiest to do it on the table saw.

Step 3: Making the Sled Fence

To make the fence sturdier, I beef it up by doubling the plywood. One part of the fence is smaller than the other, so keep that in mind when gluing these two parts together. You can use a few brad nails and or clamps to hold the two to gather as the glue set up.

Step 4: Joining the Fence to the Base

Locate the base and the fence, and then apply glue to the connecting point on the fence. Now, connect the two then add clamps. Finally, Check to make sure the base is squared to the fence

Step 5: Installing Threaded Inserts

Check to make sure the miter gauge is squared with the saw blade. Then, line up the sled to with the miter gauge. I know not all table saws come with a good miter gauge. In this case, you can make a miter bar. I gave a great example in the older table saw crosscut fence video on how to do this. The placement is optional, but the end of the sled (the short side) is placed 6in away from the blade. Honestly, there is a great chance this entire side will be cut off in the future.

Since my gauge has the slots for the bolts I marked and installed a threaded insert . These are greats for shop jigs and furniture. I highly recommend them.

Step 6: Making the Cut

After attaching the sled to the miter gauge double check to make sure it’s still squared to the blade. Now make your first cut into the sled.

Step 7: Making the Stop

To make the stop, locate the two pieces. Attached smaller part to the end of the larger piece. Then Drill out a 5/16’’ hole at the location of the T-Track.

Step 8: Prep Work

After Sanding down the sled, I applied two coats of Shellac and sanded after each coat.

Step 9: Adding the T-track

I cut each T-Track down and placed them in the slot. Next, I screwed the tracks in place.

Step 10: Adding the Adhesive Tape

Adding the adhesive measuring tape is totally optional. It just makes things convenient having it in place.

Step 11: Test Cuts

Finally, make a few test cuts and see if you need to fine-tune anything. I hope you find this post helpful, for more projects like this subscribe to my website blog and follow me on youtube and Instagram .

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    2 years ago

    Excellent instrutional...Concise and to the point... 10/10


    3 years ago

    Whenever one spends their time and expertise to try and help others, I say THANKS!

    I already have a "store-bought" larger sled. But, it is somewhat cumbersome, especially for an older person like myself. But, when you need to cut boards wider than your miter saw can handle accurately and safely, a sled is needed. So, I'm going to build one of these.

    I don't understand exactly why you have a "right" side to your sled. That is, if you are standing in front of your saw, do you need the "piece" of your sled to the right of the blade? Don't bother answering. My existing sled has the "left" side and then, a much smaller, separate, piece that rides in the right slot. Clearly, the idea was to "support" the cutoff piece on the right so your design does do that.

    But, I don't see a need for the T-slot in the right hand piece. It's no big deal and it's probably easier to just mill the slot than not.

    Again, thanks for your time and excellent documentation and explanation.


    3 years ago

    Glenn, when you turn the safety feature off to cut something that would trip the blade brake, when you turn it off and back on, it will have reset to the default "on" position. That's a simple and effective sled for small parts, I just may have to build another project based on your design.


    3 years ago

    Nice enought. But, as a general comment I find these effectively as amazon ads not attractive.


    Tip 3 years ago

    Nice build. I could use a small rig like this for sure in my shop. I would move the measurement tape to the fence though, just in case you have some small misalignment. This would give you better reproducibility.


    Reply 3 years ago

    Thank you, totally that could be adjusted to fit ones need.