Introduction: Mire Man

About: Prop builder, yard haunter, Halloween freak and podcaster.

The Mire Man is a vine creature that lingers in the Village Mire Yard Haunt. The body size is based off a 6.5 to 7 foot male using 3/4 inch PVC, PVC Elbows, Free Form Air epoxy dough, yarn and monster mud.

Step 1: Cut PVC Pipes

Cut 3/4 PVC pipes:

Bicep - 20"

Forearm - 16"

Neck - 16"

Spine - 26"

Femur - 22"

Tibie - 26"

Shoulders - 3"

Hips - 3"

Step 2: Assemble PVC Pipes and Fittings

Apply PVC cement to ends of pipe and inside fittings.

Attach neck, two shoulder and spine pipes to PVC Cross (4 sided fitting).

Attach 90 degree elbows to shoulder pipes.

Attach bicep pipes to 90 degree elbows.

Attach 45 degree elbows to bicep pipes.

Attach forearm pipes to 45 degree elbows.

Attach PVC T fitting to bottom of Spine pipe.

Attach hip pipes to both sids of T fitting.

Attach 45 degree elbows to hip pipes.

Connect femur pipes to 45 degree elbows.

Attach 90 degree elbows to femur pipes.

Attach tibia pipes to 90 elbows

Step 3: Neck and Head

Using a heat gun on high setting apply heat to the lowest part of neck pipe near cross fitting and gently bend the neck pipe forward. Once is in desired position spray pipe with cool water and the pipe hardens.

To strengthen the PVC pipe you can fill it with Smooth On's Smooth-Cast® semi rigid resin which is a low-cost urethane casting resins that cure quickly to semi-rigid plastics that offer excellent impact resistance. It is a 1:1 mix ratio. Mix equal parts A & B and pour into PVC pipe. Product hardens within 30 minutes.

Attach foam head to top of neck pipe and push pipe into foam as far as it will go.

Using and hot knife or foam carving tool, cut away the foam around the neck portion of the wig head.

Step 4: Add Free Form Air

Using 1:1 ratio, make several balls of Smooth-On's Free Form Air part A and Part B. Use nitrile gloves when making part A balls and change gloves when making part B balls. You don't want to cross contaminate the containers. Nead Part A and B together until the the color is a light gray. I usually nead dough for several minutes to unsure it is completely mixed.

To conserve Free Form Air you can use supermarket plastic bags, garbage bags or bible wrap to bulk out ares of the chest, hips, legs and biceps.

Start adding Free Form Air to joints i.e... elbows, knees, neck, shoulders etc... Continue adding to those ares until you reach the desired look. Then add Free Form Air to chest, femur, tibia, fore arm and spine.

Using cardboard shoe inserts, hot glue to ankle area of tibia then add Free Form Air. Keep adding layers of Free Form Air until you reach desired look.

Tip: Keep a spray bottle and bucket of water handy when apply Free Form Air. Moisten FFA as you apply. This will prevent FFA from sticking to your hands and allow you to mold like clay.

Step 5: Hands

FFA = Free Form Air

Measure your hand as a reference and increase measurements to accommodate a larger 7 foot tall individual. I roughly added an additional inch to each section of each finger. Using Free Form Air pinch off and roll long snake like sections about 3/4" diameter. Make the finger tip section pointy at the tip and the other sections should be round or blunt on both ends. The finger sections should resemble bones. Let FFA dry for 24 hours.

Middle Finger Piece = 3.5", 1.5", 1.5 inch (make other finger pieces slightly smaller)

Cut 2" long pieces of metal coat hanger to connect the fingers. Drill holes into ends of finger sections to insert metal coat hanger pieces. Make a small ball of FFA for the palm and attach to the end of the forearm pipe. Shape it to resemble your palm/ back hand and let dry 24 hours.

Drill holes into palm and attach fingers. Add hot glue to holes before sticking in wire coat hanger pieces if needed. Use FFA to build out knuckles.

Step 6: Continue Building Out Body and Head

FFA = Free Form Air

Cover foam head in FFA as well as the rest of the body until no PVC is exposed. Continue adding FFA to shoulders, neck, hips etc... until satisfied with look. I used 1.5 to 2 buckets of FFA to complete my Mire Man.

Step 7: Monster Mud Body

MM = Monster Mud

Monster Mud is a mixture of 5 parts sheet rock joint compound and one part exterior latex house paint. Scoop 5 parts sheet rock joint compound and one parts exterior latex paint into a bucket and mix well with heavy duty paint mixing drill bit. I used dark brown paint as I want it to resemble swamp mud.

Cut different lengths of cotton filler cord and dip into monster mud. Squeeze excess MM into bucket and drape cord around body wrapping torso, arms and legs. Use various thickness twine, yarn and rope as well and apply the same as cotton filler cord. With nitrile gloves on hands scoop up MM and cover entire body.

Step 8: Hair and Paint

MM = Monster mud

Cut various long pieces of thick yarn or thick cotton filler cord for hair. Dip pieces in MM bucket, fully submerge, then remove and squeeze excess MM out of pieces before applying. Start near base of neck and work towards top of head. Let dry over night and paint body with various shades of brown spray paint. Done!

Halloween Contest 2017

Participated in the
Halloween Contest 2017