Introduction: Modify Tuya/Smart Life Smart Socket SWA1 LED Removal
The sockets pictured above are great and really affordable, however one gripe I had with them is the super bright LEDs. This is fine on the sockets I use elsewhere but the one in my bedroom was too bright when all of the lights were off. Instead of popping some tape over the button I thought I'd tackle the problem at the source and remove the blue (standby/off) LED.
SWA1 model Smart Socket (UK model used in this tutorial)
2.3mm triangle screwdriver
Solder removal pump or wick
Step 1: Disassembly
Disassembly is really easy, the center of the plug face has a triangle-bit screw which not everyone has handy, once the base plate is off there's just four phillips screws to remove, then the top panel comes off wth a bit of persuasion to release the top clip. Don't pull too hard as there's a wire connecting the WiFi/Button assembly to the main power/relay board.
The WiFi/Button assembly is held onto the front face with 2 small phillips screws, remove both and it comes away easily ready to remove the components.
Step 2: Identifying and Removing the LEDs
The LEDs are pretty easy to trace through based on the PCB however I decided to plug the socket in with the cover off to identify which LED is which. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS IF YOU'RE NOT CONFIDENT WITH MAINS ELECTRICITY and use the info on which LED is which below.
If you have supplied AC power to confirm LEDs, obviously unplug and disconnect everything from the mains before continuing!
The blue (off/standby) LED is marked D1, the red (on/active) LED is marked D3.
On this occasion I decided to only remove the blue D1 LED as I don't mind the red LED when the switch is active, it switches lamps so there's plenty of light in the room when it's on already. You can remove D3 without issue however if you want no light regardless if it's on or off.
Removal is really simple, just heat up with the tip of a soldering iron, usually you can remove these SMD LEDs without any issues using just a soldering iron but I always find it best to use a desolder pump or a small piece of desolder wick to remove any excess solder.
The D1 and D3 gaps can be left open and the socket can be reassembled as easily as it was disassembled.