Introduction: Modular Outfeed Table | How to Build - Woodworking

About: Keith Schoeneick = U.S. Army Veteran | Woodworker | Maker | Builder | DIY Videos | Content Creator | Project Plans

Hi, I am Keith at Two Bit Woodworks and today I am going to be building this outfeed table, check it out.

Step 1: Measure Table Height

Start by measuring the height of the top of the table saw and then subtract the height of the adjustable feet and ¾” for the plywood top.

Step 2: Rough Cut Legs

Then take the 4x4s that will be used for the legs and rip them down to rough length

Step 3: Square Up Two Sides

After that, head on over to the jointer to make a few passes to square up two sides of the 4x4s.

Step 4: Dimension the Legs

Then head over to the table saw and trim the other two sides down so that you get a final dimension of 3” x 3” on the legs.

Step 5: Creating the Joinery

Take the four legs over to the miter saw and cut them to final length and get ready to start working on the joinery.

Start by marking up the locations where the material will be removed to fit in the top rails of the frame

Use the miter saw to make a bunch of passes and remove material from the legs leaving space in between each pass.

Use a hammer to easily knock out the large pieces.

Then it’s back to the miter saw to smooth out the cuts and clean up any leftover high spots with a chisel.

Follow this same process for the joinery on the lower sections of the legs: multiple cuts on the miter saw, hammer to remove the large pieces, and then back to the miter saw to clean up the cuts

Step 6: Trim 2x4s

The next step is to cut down all of the 2x4 material that will be used for the rails, bracing, and joists.

Step 7: Dimension the 2x4s

Take all of the 2x4s over to the table saw and set the fence to remove ¼” from one side of each 2x4

Once you trim ¼” from one side of each 2x4, reset the fence to remove ¼” from the other side of the 2x4 so that you are left with a 1 ½” x 3” dimension

Step 8: Assembling the 3 Sides

Front and back assembly begins with attaching the top and bottom rails to one of the legs, while the side assembly includes attaching the top and bottom rails to the other two legs

Attach the rails to the legs for all 3 sides the same way, by predrilling out the holes for the screws, adding glue to the joints and then attaching with 2” deck screws

Step 9: Changing on the Fly

Originally the table was going to be 5' wide, but it encroached into the center of the shop a bit more than anticipated. The decision to decrease the width to 4’.

Step 10: Implementing the Change

This change was easily accomplished because the 3 sides had not been attached yet so all that needed to be done was to take off 12 inches from the top and bottom rail of the front and back pieces with the circular saw.

Step 11: Assembly

Then dry fit the front and side sections and continued with the assembly by predrilling then gluing and screwing the sections together with 2” deck screws.

Step 12: Assembly Continues

Repeat the process to attach the back section to the side section

Step 13: Long Side Assembly

The last side is the long section that will run along the wall and act as a support for the extension wing of the table saw.

To make sure everything was square, screw one end of the top rail into the leg and then measured out the same distance as the opposing side rail and then glued and screwed the rail to the front leg using 2” deck screws.

Step 14: Last of the Rails

Attach the bottom rail the same way as the top rail.

Then flip the table right side up and begin the process of strengthening the frame.

Step 15: Cutting the Joists

Start out on the miter saw cutting 2x4s to the length that will span the width of the frame and act somewhat as a joist.

Step 16: Pocket Holes

Then drill pocket holes for attaching the joists to the rails.

Step 17: Attach the Joists

Attach the joists to the rails using 2” screws and used a speed square to make sure everything stays all lined up.

Step 18: Continue Adding the Joists

Add the two joists that will support the bottom shelf, and then attached the last piece on the top.

Step 19: More Pocket Holes

Drill pocket holes in the vertical pieces for the front legs of the extension portion.

Step 20: Attach Front Rails and Feet

Use a speed square to find the center to predrill a hole to accept the small adjustable Teflon feet that will ensure that the table is rock solid.

Step 21: Attach the Front Legs

The next step is to attach the front leg to the top rail of the frame using pocket hole screws.

Step 22: Assemble the Front Legs

Assemble the left side of the extension wing frame with pocket hole screws and set it aside for now.

Step 23: Main Support Feet

The frame is put on its side so that the adjustable feet can be installed to all 4 of the main 3x3 legs.

Step 24: Move Table Saw Into Place

Then it’s time to move the table saw into position and get the remainder of the frame together.

Step 25: Support Pieces

After attaching the preassembled left extension section, head over to the miter saw to cut a few support pieces that will span between the left and right sections of the extension table.

Step 26: Even More Pocket Holes

Then add a few pocket holes to the support pieces.

Step 27: Attach the Support Pieces

Attach the support pieces to the frame using 2-inch pocket hole screws.

Step 28: Level the Saw and Table

Make sure that the table saw and frame are level by adjusting the feet of the outfeed table and adding shims, if needed, under the table saw to line everything up.

Step 29: Topping the Table

Finally, it is time to put a top on this beast.

Wrestle a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 inch Purebond plywood onto the frame.

Step 30: Marking Lines to Trim Top

Mark out the location of the table saw on the plywood so the cuts are accurate and the plywood could drop right over the table saw so there are no gaps.

The good thing about going from a 5-foot to a 4-foot table was that one solid piece of plywood could be used without having to piece together a few different pieces.

I dug through my toolbox and found one of a hundred spare dust collection elbows that don’t fit anything but never returned and used that as a template to match the rounded corners of the table saw.

Step 31: Cutting the Straight Cuts

The straight cuts can be made with a track saw or circular saw and then finish off the corners with the jigsaw and a chisel.

Step 32: Pre-Drill for Attaching the Top

Mark out and predrill the locations to attach the plywood top to the frame.

Use 1 5/8-inch deck screws to finish attaching the top, no glue should be used in case the top down needs to be replaced down the road.

Step 33: Ripping the Trim

To make some trim for the short and long side of the table, rip down a 1-inch strip from one side of a 2x4 and then flip the board and repeat the cut on the other side.

Step 34: Attach the Trim

Glue and nail the trim to the plywood top using 2-inch brad nails.

Step 35: Sand the Top

Sand the top and legs down to 120 grit.

Step 36: Apply Polycrylic

Apply 3 coats of satin polycrylic, and lightly sand using 220 grit in between coats.

Step 37: Bottom Shelf & Finishing Up the Build

Break out the track saw again to rip a few pieces of ½ inch Purebond plywood for the bottom shelf.

Notch out the corners on the front and back pieces and attach using 1-inch brad nails.

Cut the last piece to fit in between the other two board and finish up by nailing it to the frame.

Step 38: Wrapping It Up

That wraps it up for part one of the outfeed table build. This outfeed table provides a central workplace where you can do glue-ups, assemblies, and of course. use it as for its main purpose as an outfeed for the table saw.

Part 2 of this build will be adding a complete router table setup and part 3 will be adding some custom storage underneath for accessories.