Introduction: Morpheus 4040 : the High-end Hobbyist CNC Router Fully Made With a 3018

About: Not an engineer, just a passionated guy.

Disclaimer

I'm still working on this project and the upgrades come very regularly, that's why I'm waiting to write the full detailed definitive version of this instructable. I'll put the updated version very soon, with some full cutting operation video !

Preamble

As many hobbyists, I have a CNC 3018 which teach me a lot about CNC cutting. Since it has its limitations, I could have upgraded it for bigger projects, but I was wondering : why should I not make an all new machine from the little 3018 ? The idea to make this 4040 was born, it's my very first CNC child.

This instructable will give you key steps to design an affordable but great quality CNC router, not (only) with scraps or low quality materials. In my very humble opinion, I would consider this machine as a high-end hobbyist machine, since I try to make it compact but very reliable. I won't talk about very specific sections like electronic or wiring, there's plenty of excellent intructables for that. This instructable is focused on the global design / drawing process of CNC router machine.

Take the time to think about your own workflow, if you invest enough energy and time into these key steps, you will succeed. Trust me, I'm not an engineer, just a passionated guy.

Supplies

A standard 3018 CNC machine ("pro" version or not, I have the "simple" version), or any CNC router that can cut at least 30cm of lenght pieces.

Step 1: Expected Specifications

What I wanted and what you'll get if you replicate my machine :

  • A robust, simple and modular design, which gives the best balance between cost and quality (build with zero scraps parts)
  • Low footprint and quiet, since I'm living in an appartment and don't have a lot of workspace
  • No 3D printed parts, I don't like them as they seem too fragile and/or flexible for me, and I really don't like plastic materials
  • The lowest possible cost, this full project can be done for less than 200€, even less if you use scrap parts
  • Lowest proportion of bought parts, if I could create a part with my old 3018, I did it
  • Easy parts finding, no complicated or exotic pieces, only a standardized and reliable design, so you could get help if needed

Step 2: Features

1) Dimensions

55 x 65 x 35 cm (l x L x h)

2) Workarea

40 x 40 x 5 cm

I really wanted a minimum of 40x40, so I can easily put a full panel of 40cm on it. Since I don't plan to cut very thick pieces, the 5cm of Z travel was sufficient to me, but it's not enough confortable. I plan to change the 10cm extrusions by 20cm to get more Z travel.

2) Type of gantry

Standardized type with aluminium extrusions and modular design, inspired by the Workbee and the Shapeoko. I wanted the best compromise between reliability / stability and the size of the machine, so I decided to go for 2x 2040 extrusions for the Y and X axis. The Z got 2x 2020. You can change all the work area by changing the lenght of the extrusions.

3) Type of motion

V-Slots style, the aluminium extrusions are used with polycarbonate wheels as linear rails. They are coupled with trapézoïdal lead screws for more précision, compared to the classical belt drive for this type of gantry. In this model, you can use either one or two motors for the Y axis (I use two for better stability).

4) Type of controller

GRBL, completely open source and very well documented, I've learned everything on the web :)

5) Type of spindle

You can use a classical router as the spindle, but I chose a 500w chinese spindle, with its dedicated power supply. This type of spindle is very cheap (less than 70e), can be easily replaced and is very quiet, which was an important criterion for my needs. It also deliver enough torque and RPM (around 12000 RPM) to cut at a decent speed all types of wood, plastic and soft metals like aluminium.

Step 3: ​Required Parts for This Model

  • Aluminium extrusion, V slot type, all of them need to be threaded (M6) in their center
  • Polycarbonate Wheels
  • L brackets
  • M3 M5 M6 nuts / bolts
  • Spacers
  • 4x nema17 or nema23
  • Arduino CNC shield
  • Dedicated motion power supply (24v, 5a)
  • Spindle and its own power supply (500w), or a simple router
  • I won't mention the screwing in the assembly, since it depends a lot on your design and on the accessibility of your furnitures. Make sure that you have enough M3/M5/M6 bolts and nuts to assemble everything.

Step 4: Designing the Custom Parts : Part 1

I used Illustrator to 2D design the custom parts of the machine. It's not the easiest way to proceed, if you're a beginner try to design it directly in 3D, with a CAD software like Sketchup or Fusion 360. You could also import existing 3D models (look for databases) into your design to make it fast and simple. 2D designing is easier for me since I like to work in Illustrator, but it needs a lot of mental operations, like spatializations and visualizations.

Once the design done, you have to cut them with your little 3018. I assume that your not a beginner with your machine and that you know how to cut the parts flawlessly. I use panels of Valchromat to make them, it's considered as almost-HDF (high density fiber) and it has very good specifications to be cut AND used. In my humble opinion, it's far better than acrylic plates in many dimensions. The spoilboard is also made from a HDF panel.

All the custom parts have only one purpose : to assemble the bought parts. Start with the gantry, then design the XYZ axis. Once it's done, assemble and try the stiffness of the machine. If the machine doesn't reach your expectations, change your design, piece by piece. If you have to force something, then your design needs to be revised. I personnaly got a lot of die and try before I reached my objectives, be patient and don't hesitate to restart each step.

Step 5: Designing the Custom Parts : Part 2

Now let's check each part in details.

The global shape of the machine

There's 2 main possible setup for a CNC router :

  • A spindle mounted on a fixed gantry, moving only on X axis. A moving bed under the spindle constitute the Y axis.
  • A spindle mounted on a moving gantry that constitute X and Y axis.In both setup, the spindle is mounted on a cart that is moving up and down, it's the Z axis.

Once those main setup chosen, you have to decide about the workarea and the dimensions of your machine, that will determinate the rest of your design.

Basic steps in the design

I use aluminium extrusions in my design. To assemble them, you need to draw custom parts that fit in your design. Begin by considering the V-slots, their exact size, the bolts and nuts that can fit in, the size of the threaded holes. If you work in full design like me (no importing of existing models), then you have to draw each hole with its exact size. You'll need them when you'll draw custom parts.

Begin by drawing each piece with its exact size and dimensions. To do that, you have two main solutions :

  • Use a caliper and a ruler. Measure each piece you have and note the dimensions
  • Find the dimensions of your parts on google, or better, on Aliexpress, Banggood, or other website that sell them. If you use standardized parts like me, you'll easily find technical drawings in the pages of the products

There some of the parts I drew myself (in front view and side view) :

  • The aluminium extrusions (2020 & 2040)
  • The polycarbonate wheels (medium size and small size)
  • The 500w spindle and its holder
  • The spacers
  • Nema 17 motors
  • M3 / M5 / M6 holes (add 0.2mm to them to allow a little tolerance on your cutted pieces)

Step 6: Designing the Custom Parts : Part 3

Designing XYZ axis : The "Portal"

This is the hardest part. Before drawing your custom parts, you have to decide of the type of gantry and motion you want. I chose the type "spindle mounted on a moving gantry on XYZ axis". I wanted something very sturdy, so I made what I call "a portal" shape.

  • It consist of 2x 2040 extrusions mounted on top, that support a carriage (X axis), and on this carriage is mounted the Z module (Z axis).
  • These 2040 are linked by 2x external plates (custom pieces) that handle 2x 6 wheels that roll on 2x 2040 (Y axis).
  • These 2x external plates go below the lever of the 2x 2040 (Y axis) and are connected on the underneath by 2x 2020 extrusions.
  • These 2x 2020 handle 2x holders of leadscrew nut and their antibacklash nut that permit the motion of Y axis.

This type of gantry is very sturdy and permit the use of one stepper motor for the Y axis (located on the middle) or two stepper motors, located next to the the external plates. I chose 2x motors for mine, which suppose to draw 2x holders for nema17/23, located on the front or the back of the machine.

Step 7: Designing the Custom Parts : Part 4

The X carriage

It consists of 2x custom plates mounted on 12x wheels (small size) that roll around 2x 2040 extrusions (X axis, up of the portal). 2x leadscrew nuts holders + antibacklash nut are connected to this X carriage, below the 2x 2040. 1x leadscrew (t8) permit the X motion.

The Z module

4x wheels (small size) run inside 2x 2020 extrusions, connected by 2x custom parts, the down part is holding 8mm bearing and on the up part is attached a nema17 motor. The leadscrew (10cm) is coupled on this nema17 and go through 2x leadscrew nuts holders + antibacklash nut.

Feets and reinforcement parts

4x custom feets are connected to 2x 2020 extrusions, that are linked to 2x 2040 extrusions (as rails for Y axis). These 4x custom feets are reinforced with 4x custom holders (8mm bearings and nema17). 1x holder for arduino CNC shield is mounted on front of the machine.

Step 8: The Assembly

Here a summary of the pieces that constitute this CNC machine.

The portal

What I call "the portal" regroup the X, Z and Y axis. The portal moves on the extruded 2040 gantry, it's the Y axis. On it, you have a cart that moves along the 2x 2040 profiles, which constitute the X axis. On the cart, you have the Z module, with the Z axis.

Assemble the Z module :

  • 2x 2020 profiles
  • 3x Z plates (a, b, c)
  • 2x Intermediate plates (d)
  • 1x Stepper motor1x aluminium holder (shipped with the 500w spindle)
  • 4x Mini-wheels
  • 4x Spacers
  • 1x Nema motor

Assemble the X-cart :

  • 2x X-axis plates (d, e)
  • 12x mini-wheels (you can put only 8 if you want)6x Spacers (11mm)
  • 12x Spacers (8.3mm)
  • 2x Trapezoidal holder (f)
  • 1x Trapezoidal screw (I use T8 but you can use T10 or T12 for more stability)

Assemble the portal :

  • 2x 2040 profiles (X axis)
  • 12x normal wheels (you can put only 8 if you want)
  • 12x Spacers12x Spacers2x Y-axis plates (g, h)
  • 2x 2020 profiles2x Portal plates (i)2x Trapezoidal holders (j)
  • 1x Nema motor

Assemble the gantry :

  • 4x L-Brackets2x Nema motors
  • 4x Foot plates (k)2x Nema holders plates (l)
  • 2x Bearing for T8 holders plates (m)

Step 9: Quality Control

1) Squareness

Make sure all is square and tighly assembled, use tools if necessary, this will have a big impact on the precision and stability of your machine. Control the the squareness between your spindle and the spoil board, all on the way of the X and Y axis. Re-screw or redesign the custom parts if necessary.

2) Stiffness

The tension between the wheels and the extrusion rails / profiles is very important, it will determine the precision of your machine. Make sure that the wheels are tightly inserted into the V-slots, they have to roll but not being sloppy. Redesign your custom piece if necessary. You can also use eccentric spacers with the wheels to easily adjust the tension between them and the extrusion profiles. I don't use them since I designed my custom parts to handle them tight.

3) Other

Put some lubrificant on the leadscrews to make that grinding noise stop.

Step 10: (re)Try and (re)Die

It's time to try your machine. Cut some pieces to calibrate it. Take your time, try, identify what's wrong, find solutions, retry again and again. It'll work if you take your time. Good luck and enjoy, I hope this instructable help you to draw and design your own CNC machine. Dont't forget that the journey is more important that the destination !

Step 11: Extensions

  • Change the work area by changing the lenght of the aluminium extrusions. Don't forget to adapt to motion system by extend the lead screws (not recommanded since it can decrease the precision of the machine), or change it for a belt system or better, for ballscrews.
  • Design your own mounting system if you want to use a router or a laser. You could also use the machine as a plotter, or as a 3D printer. Just take your time to get a great quality design.