NERF Roughcut MOD: Fallout Laser Rifle !!!

Ahoi!

Today we transform a regular NERF 2x4 ROUGHCUT into a worthy badass Fallout prop

for cosplay or showing off (or building fun). Mine has a hinge in the front, for easier access,

not REALLY needed, but adding it is not hard, you would just have to split the square tubing.

25cm and 10cm long plus hinge.

Step 1: Tools and Material:

Tools:

- Rotary tool

- Drillbits (2 / 2.5 / 3mm)

- Jig saw (for the wood work)

- Cutting wheels for the Rtool (for cutting out bits on the roughcut)

- Screwdriver

- Metalsaw

- Threadcutters (M2) (using M2 nuts will also work)

- Scotch bright or sanding paper

- Sharp knife / scalpel

- Hole saw plus power tool OR electric pad saw

- Dry-blower (for the paint...nothing fancy)

Material:

- NERF Roughcut 2x4

- Aluminum flatbar 30x2 mm, 300 mm long

- Aluminum square tube 70x70 mm, 350 mm long

- OPTIONAL: Hinge for easier access in the front

- 7 mm aluminum pipe or round bar

- 15 mm thick wooden plate, 360x160 mm

- Spraypaints: Camouflage green, desert sandstorm, silver grey, yellow, red, black, clearcoat

- 2 mm Aluminum sheet, 30-32 mm wide, 400 mm long (wrapped around the stock)

- Metal/wood-screws 2/2.5 mm 15mm long

- M2 screws, 6 pcs, 5-6 mm long(to screw the flatbar to the sides)

- 10x1 mm Aluminum tubing, 350 mm long

- 20x5 mm Aluminum tubing 150 mm long

- Surprise egg (aka fusion cell)

Step 2: The Steps:

1. Cut out the templates (15 mm wooden plate), and sand them.

2. Cut off the iron sight on top first. Open up your Roughcut blaster, and put in 3 holes on the bottom side, as shown in the video. Put on the wooden

middle piece (centered), then mark the spots for drilling. Attach it by using metal/woodscrews.

3. Then drill 2 holes on the "flat 90° surface, along both sides. Mark the spots on the flatbars, screw them on.

4. Cut out a 50 mm wide stripe, and turn the square-tube into a U-profile. The make a cut out for the "rail", on the up-side. Slide it over the blaster, mark 2 spots for screwing it onto the flatbars (one hole in the front, one in the rear will do fine). Mark the spots on the flat-bars, and drill 1.5mm holes, then cut threads (M2).

5. The stock needs holes, 2x60 and 1x70mm. The half-circle cut out holes at the edge are 6 and 8mm DM.

Make it fit the grip, use the rotary tool for cutting out the space you need for the stock. Eyeballing it works best here.

6. Cut out a short piece of the 20 mm tubing, around 20 mm long, and drill a 2.5 mm hole through both sides, widen one of them to 6mm. Screw the tubing to the wooden middle piece with a metal or wood screw.

7. Another piece for the front (as long as you like, taste varies, mine was around 80 mm long). Put in the 10 mm tubing, keep it in place with some glue or an M2 screw plus thread.

8. Screw the front side to the front piece you cut out of the wood at the beginning. I used long metal screws right

through the front, into the 5 mm wall of the 20mm tubing. 20 mm long M2 screws and threads will do as well.

9. OPTIONAL: Cut off 100 mm of the former square tube, not U profil, and add a small hinge, makes loading easier.

But even without it, its far beyond impossible, so its not 100% needed here.

10. Bend some pipe as shown in the video, for the top of the rifle. I used some of the 20mm aluminum tubing for the

knob and a tiny piece of 12mm tubing for the front. Tape plus paint will work for the front as well.

11. Cut out a piece to make sure the fusion cell fits in there, to about 30%.Holder of the fusion cell is a piece of the 15mm wood, the cell on my rifle is turned aluminum, but a surprise egg would actually work out as well. A metal/wood screw through one of the halfs will fix it to the wooden holder. Extend the middle section with some tubing, and glue it in. The other side was made of scrap alumimum glued to the blaster.

12. Bend the 30 mm metal strip along the line of the stock, using your thumbs (that's really how I did it, no special tools needed) or around a solid piece of roundbar...or even over the edge of your desk. The thinner the metal, the easier. Thicker looks better, your choice :p 3 Metal/wood screws will hold it in place.

13. Fabricate a small piece of metal to hold the pipe in place on the U-section barrel. Screw it to the top-side using metal screws or M2s. The know in the rear is held in place by 2 metal screws from the inside of the blaster into the wall of the 20 mm tubing the knob is made of. Solid roundbar and one single screw into the center would also work.

14. Take it all apart, sand the wooden parts until they are smooth as funk...apply clearcoat. 3 wet layers, the wood will soak up at least one of them like its nothing. Sand again. Then you can apply basecoats. The plastic does not NEED a plastic primer, but its never wrong to prime it. Sand it with scotchbright, and apply paint. Sand the metal, same procedure.

15. Weathering is optional, as you can see, its adds ALOT to the look, I will make a separated tutorial for dirt and rust!

And I think thats it, we are done!