Introduction: Natural Wood Tables
About: I retired from the railroad after 28 years and enjoy my pastimes as the seasons allow. I like spending most of my time outdoors, but when the weather is bad I like keeping busy with projects around the house. …
I love woodworking, and I have been making these tables for many years. They are not hard to make, but they look gorgeous when they are done.
My instructable will show you how to make your own a one of a kind table like this, without a lot of fancy tools. You only need access to either drift wood or some fallen trees, and a little imagination!
This is my first Instructable and also my entry into the Shop Bot and Furniture Contests. So if you like this project, I would really appreciate your votes!
I have included pictures of some of the other tables I've made. I hope you like them!
My instructable will show you how to make your own a one of a kind table like this, without a lot of fancy tools. You only need access to either drift wood or some fallen trees, and a little imagination!
This is my first Instructable and also my entry into the Shop Bot and Furniture Contests. So if you like this project, I would really appreciate your votes!
I have included pictures of some of the other tables I've made. I hope you like them!
Step 1: Materials & Tools
Selecting Pieces of Wood:
For this project I used a piece of cut Cedar for the table top and base and a piece of Juniper for the table leg; but you don't have to use these types of wood! Almost ANY kind of wood can be used.
The table will be more interesting and beautiful if it has some nice bends and color, so use your imagination when you select pieces to use. Look for fallen trees from storms, or from an old logging area, or find driftwood from a lake side.
The pieces don't have to be perfect. If there are some rotten areas, I will show you how to transform the wood into a gorgeous table!
I am using a base that is about 1 1/2 inches thick and a table top that is about 2 inches thick. Make your pieces however thick you want, just leave it thick enough for strength. These tables are not very heavy when they are done.
Note: Make sure your wood pieces are fully dry before you make your table.
Various Rocks (to fill any rotten areas of the wood)
You don't have to pick any special kind of rocks, just look for pieces that have nice color and shine when they are wet. Some of the rocks I used are called Mica, but use what you are able to find. If the pieces are big you can break them down with a hammer or large rock. Wear safety glasses!
Varnish
When your table is done, you'll have to finish it with Varnish. The product I used (see photo) is very thick and works GREAT for this project. It makes a varnish layer that is 50 times thicker than regular varnish. You might want to try looking for it online, or buy a similar product where you live. If you must use regular Varnish, simply add enough coats to ensure the wood is well protected and sealed.
Tools & Additional Supplies
Note: Make sure you use safety glasses, and any ear protection, as needed when using power tools!
For this project I used a piece of cut Cedar for the table top and base and a piece of Juniper for the table leg; but you don't have to use these types of wood! Almost ANY kind of wood can be used.
The table will be more interesting and beautiful if it has some nice bends and color, so use your imagination when you select pieces to use. Look for fallen trees from storms, or from an old logging area, or find driftwood from a lake side.
The pieces don't have to be perfect. If there are some rotten areas, I will show you how to transform the wood into a gorgeous table!
I am using a base that is about 1 1/2 inches thick and a table top that is about 2 inches thick. Make your pieces however thick you want, just leave it thick enough for strength. These tables are not very heavy when they are done.
Note: Make sure your wood pieces are fully dry before you make your table.
Various Rocks (to fill any rotten areas of the wood)
You don't have to pick any special kind of rocks, just look for pieces that have nice color and shine when they are wet. Some of the rocks I used are called Mica, but use what you are able to find. If the pieces are big you can break them down with a hammer or large rock. Wear safety glasses!
Varnish
When your table is done, you'll have to finish it with Varnish. The product I used (see photo) is very thick and works GREAT for this project. It makes a varnish layer that is 50 times thicker than regular varnish. You might want to try looking for it online, or buy a similar product where you live. If you must use regular Varnish, simply add enough coats to ensure the wood is well protected and sealed.
Tools & Additional Supplies
- Hand saw or chain saw to cut the wood pieces to take home and to cut later to size.
- Sander & Sandpaper (Electric is faster, but you can use a sandpaper block)
- Planer (if your wood is cut too uneven for a sander)
- Chisel or other sharp tool (to clean away loose and rotten areas of wood)
- Level
- Pencil
- Drill & Drill bit (to cut dowel holes)
- Pre-made dowels to attach table top (Available at most home improvement stores, or you can make them.)
- Wood glue
- A few screws (to attach the base to the table leg)
- Disposable dish to mix your varnish
- Paintbrushes to apply your varnish
- Propane Torch (to heat the varnish and remove any air bubbles. Also recommended by the Varnish I used.)
- Strong Wide Tape (used on wood edges where rocks are used as a filler, to keep rocks from falling out.)
- Work bench & some clamps (to secure your wood pieces during sanding).
- Tape Measure
Note: Make sure you use safety glasses, and any ear protection, as needed when using power tools!
Step 2: Cut Pieces to Height
To cut your table leg to height, start by attaching it with a screw to the base. (see photo)
Then take your table top and figure out how high you want the table. Mark a pencil line underneath the table top onto the table leg. (see photo). Now using a level, draw a level line with your pencil across the table leg where it needs to be cut.
Using a hand saw (or a power saw) cut your table leg to the desired height. (see photo) Set the table top on the table leg to check the overall height.
If you are happy with the height, unscrew the table leg from the base and proceed to cleaning your material in the next step.
Then take your table top and figure out how high you want the table. Mark a pencil line underneath the table top onto the table leg. (see photo). Now using a level, draw a level line with your pencil across the table leg where it needs to be cut.
Using a hand saw (or a power saw) cut your table leg to the desired height. (see photo) Set the table top on the table leg to check the overall height.
If you are happy with the height, unscrew the table leg from the base and proceed to cleaning your material in the next step.
Step 3: Clean, Plane and Sand Your Wood Pieces
When cleaning your wood pieces, look for any loose bark or wood and remove any soft or rotted areas. You do not have to sand the table leg smooth, simply clean away all loose pieces.
Use your planer (if needed) to flatten any uneven areas of the base or table top prior to sanding.
Then using a block sander or an electric sander, sand the base and table top smooth. You don't have to sand it with multiple papers and make it really smooth. The varnish I recommend fills in a lot of areas.
If you have any rotted areas on your table top (like I did), simply chisel out the rotted material until you are left with strong wood and various holes. (See photos).
Use your planer (if needed) to flatten any uneven areas of the base or table top prior to sanding.
Then using a block sander or an electric sander, sand the base and table top smooth. You don't have to sand it with multiple papers and make it really smooth. The varnish I recommend fills in a lot of areas.
If you have any rotted areas on your table top (like I did), simply chisel out the rotted material until you are left with strong wood and various holes. (See photos).
Step 4: How to Fill Any Rotten or Damaged Areas of Your Table Top
Most people would look at a partially rotten or damaged piece of wood as a problem, but I like to look at them as an opportunity to make the table top better!
For this step you'll need the rocks mentioned in Step 1 (Materials & Tools). You don't want to use large pieces, so if you have to, break the rocks up with a hammer or another large rock. Use your safety glasses!
Then fill in the holes (where rotten wood was cleaned from) with the small rocks. (see photo). You might find a paintbrush helpful in getting the rocks where you want them. Just be sure to fill the holes completely! They don't have to be level. I'll show you how to flatten these areas later.
Note: If any of the filled areas are close to the table top edge, you can use some wide tape to temporarily keep the rocks from falling out. (see photo).
Now that the holes are filled with rocks, you'll need to mix a small amount of your varnish, to partially fill the rock areas (see photo). Use a scrap piece of wood to get the varnish into the rock areas. Don't use a paintbrush in this step as it will just move all your rocks from the holes!
Once you have partially filled each hole leave the piece to dry. (Time will depend on amount of varnish used and humidity).
When the first filler coat of varnish has dried you will want to add more varnish to completely fill the holes. Then allow to dry.
For this step you'll need the rocks mentioned in Step 1 (Materials & Tools). You don't want to use large pieces, so if you have to, break the rocks up with a hammer or another large rock. Use your safety glasses!
Then fill in the holes (where rotten wood was cleaned from) with the small rocks. (see photo). You might find a paintbrush helpful in getting the rocks where you want them. Just be sure to fill the holes completely! They don't have to be level. I'll show you how to flatten these areas later.
Note: If any of the filled areas are close to the table top edge, you can use some wide tape to temporarily keep the rocks from falling out. (see photo).
Now that the holes are filled with rocks, you'll need to mix a small amount of your varnish, to partially fill the rock areas (see photo). Use a scrap piece of wood to get the varnish into the rock areas. Don't use a paintbrush in this step as it will just move all your rocks from the holes!
Once you have partially filled each hole leave the piece to dry. (Time will depend on amount of varnish used and humidity).
When the first filler coat of varnish has dried you will want to add more varnish to completely fill the holes. Then allow to dry.
Step 5: Assembly
Now that your wood pieces are cleaned, sanded and any rotted areas are filled, you can assemble the table.
We'll do so by reattaching the table leg to the base with a screw. At this point, leave only one screw in the base.
Then carefully drill dowel holes into your table leg so that you can attach the top. (see photos).
Before adding your dowels, you'll want to position the table top onto your table leg, and with a pencil, trace where the table leg will attach to your table top. You'll need to measure where your dowel holes are and transfer the mark onto the bottom of your table top. (see photo). Once you are sure you have measured correctly, you can drill holes into the table top base for the other end of your dowels. Be sure not to drill through your table top!
Once the holes are drilled, add wood glue and insert your pre-made dowels into the table leg. (see photo). Then add some wood glue to the dowels and position the table top in place.
Now use your level and see if your table top is attached evenly. If you need to make any adjustments, you'll find it easier to do at the base. Simply remove the screw and remove some material from the table leg and continue checking until your table sits level.
Once you are satisfied that your table is perfectly level, you can add additional screws to ensure your table leg is secured to the base.
We'll do so by reattaching the table leg to the base with a screw. At this point, leave only one screw in the base.
Then carefully drill dowel holes into your table leg so that you can attach the top. (see photos).
Before adding your dowels, you'll want to position the table top onto your table leg, and with a pencil, trace where the table leg will attach to your table top. You'll need to measure where your dowel holes are and transfer the mark onto the bottom of your table top. (see photo). Once you are sure you have measured correctly, you can drill holes into the table top base for the other end of your dowels. Be sure not to drill through your table top!
Once the holes are drilled, add wood glue and insert your pre-made dowels into the table leg. (see photo). Then add some wood glue to the dowels and position the table top in place.
Now use your level and see if your table top is attached evenly. If you need to make any adjustments, you'll find it easier to do at the base. Simply remove the screw and remove some material from the table leg and continue checking until your table sits level.
Once you are satisfied that your table is perfectly level, you can add additional screws to ensure your table leg is secured to the base.
Step 6: Varnish Your Table
If you had any areas to fill with rocks, you'll now want to sand the table top flat before adding varnish.
Then use a cloth or vacuum to remove all traces of dust. Be sure to clean well as you'll see any dirt after varnishing.
Now that your table is cleaned, you can mix another batch of varnish and begin brushing the varnish on the table. I always start with the less flat areas, and all the nooks and crannies. Leave the flattest parts to do last to ensure the smoothest result.
If you're using the recommended varnish, you'll see that it suggests using a propane torch to heat the varnish to remove air bubbles. Follow the directions on the product you are using. If you use a propane torch, be careful not to scorch or burn your table. Keep the flame moving!
Once the entire table is coated with varnish, allow it to dry.
After your table has dried, you should be able to see if you missed any areas and if you require another coat. This is also your opportunity to correct any problem areas (like un-vacuumed dust that you can see) by sanding any areas as needed, then reapply your varnish.
Once your 2nd coat is done, allow your table to dry undisturbed until fully cured. Check your varnish package for the recommended amount of drying time. You don't want to place anything on your table until you are certain the varnish is cured and dry.
Congratulations! You have now made your very own one of a kind table.
Then use a cloth or vacuum to remove all traces of dust. Be sure to clean well as you'll see any dirt after varnishing.
Now that your table is cleaned, you can mix another batch of varnish and begin brushing the varnish on the table. I always start with the less flat areas, and all the nooks and crannies. Leave the flattest parts to do last to ensure the smoothest result.
If you're using the recommended varnish, you'll see that it suggests using a propane torch to heat the varnish to remove air bubbles. Follow the directions on the product you are using. If you use a propane torch, be careful not to scorch or burn your table. Keep the flame moving!
Once the entire table is coated with varnish, allow it to dry.
After your table has dried, you should be able to see if you missed any areas and if you require another coat. This is also your opportunity to correct any problem areas (like un-vacuumed dust that you can see) by sanding any areas as needed, then reapply your varnish.
Once your 2nd coat is done, allow your table to dry undisturbed until fully cured. Check your varnish package for the recommended amount of drying time. You don't want to place anything on your table until you are certain the varnish is cured and dry.
Congratulations! You have now made your very own one of a kind table.