Howdy. One of the greatest weak spots of the e50 motor is the clutch. For the most part, it works well when the motor is left stock, but when performance parts are put on the motor, the clutch wears out fast. I'll walk you through the removal of an e50 clutch.....

In case you were wondering...

I made it at Techshop. They have a work bay where you can work on your car, motorcycle, moped... whatever! There are 3 of them around the SF Bay Area, so it's pretty convenient. There's others around the country and they have lots of tools and workshops. Wood, Metal, Fabrics, Electronics and more. It's rad.

Check it out here:                                www.techshop.ws

Step 1: Diggin' In.

First, the oil needs to be drained from the e50 motor. I've already made an Instructable on how to do that. If you need help with that part, go here...


fter the oil is drained, let's loosen the clutch cable. There is typically an adjuster that can be loosened. Should be a 10mm nut that can be unscrewed to do that.

After that, remove the centerstand spring. Put on your safety goggles, or you could put out an eyeball. Seriously. I used a spring removal tool that I made from an aluminium bar and a brake cable.

Once that is done, you can loosen the (4) screws that hold on the clutch cover. It could possibly be a J.I.S. head screw, which is like a Phillips head, but really big. I used an impact screwdriver. Sometimes they are tight. Make them loose 1 by 1, then remove them.

Once the (4) screws are removed, you should be able to pry off the clutch cover. It should come off easily.

Step 2: Exposing the Clutch....

Grab a small flat screwdriver and pry out the circle spring. You should be able to locate the gap in the spring and easily remove it.

The clutch starter plate will then come right out.

In the center of the clutch (mounted onto the crankshaft) is a nut. Mine was a 17mm nut, but I've also seen 15mm and 14mm nuts. Remove it. I used an electric impact driver, but a pneumatic impact driver or piston stop/socket wrench combo will also work....

Step 3: Pullin' Yer Clutch....

Grab you e50 clutch puller. I got mine from Treatland, it's around $15. If you have an e50 motor, you will need this tool. Buy one if you don't already own one.

There are (2) M6 threaded holes on the clutch plate. Screw in the (2) M6 screws that come with your clutch puller into the clutch plate. Try to screw them in pretty deep, as you will be putting a lot of force onto the tool and the clutch. If you don't have enough grip, you could eff things up real good. Try to screw the tool in straight. Screw in the center screw until it makes contact with the crankshaft. Once you're sure that everything looks good, start wrenching on the center bolt. Mine uses an allen wrench, some have a hex bolt. either way, keep screwing it tight. eventually you will hear a loud "POP", and the clutch will come loose. This part always makes me nervous, but that's how it's done.....

Step 4: Clean-up, Inspect, Install.....

If your clutch is wasted, you'll know. Determine if you need to replace your clutch...

Take a small flat screwdriver and scrape out the crap from the grove where the circle spring sits. Clean out both edges and ends. clean it with a rag after...

wipe down both contact surfaces where the gasket goes. If you have old gasket crud on there, carefully scrape it off. Replace your clutch gasket if the old one is trashed. I like to put some liquid gasket onto both surfaces before I put everything back together. "Yamabond" is good stuff, but there's other types that are also good. Don't go crazy with it. Just lightly coat both surfaces...

I find that putting the (4) screws in first, then the gasket onto the screws, helps keep everything together when fitting things back up.

Be sure to put the clutch cable back in the arm. It's a real pain in thee arse to do this after everything is back together. You'll have to mave the arm back while installing the clutch cover onto the motor. You may want to curse at this point. It sux!

I ALWAYS start the screws 1 at a time. turn the first screw in 2 turns, then the opposite screw 2 times. mave an X. Once all screws are going in smoothly, turn them all in the rest of the way, then tighten them down good.

All done? GREAT. Don't forget to fill up on motor on motor oil. Refer to this instructable if you don't know how...


Thanks for viewing and best of luck with your moped adventures!

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    5 years ago

    I have two and a half puch magnums with z50 engines. two of them are quite complete, with running engines. one have clutch problem, the clutch is not seperating the wheel from the engine. The other one goes, it has some engine adjustment needs and the 1st gear disengages while climbing. Plan to restore them in time, converting one of the frames to a cafe racer type of bike looking like the ones in the pics, although I can not decide where to start and what to do for now. Only occasionally taking the driving one for a quick tour around the block. finding parts etc is a nightmare. :D


    8 years ago on Introduction

    I ride motorcycles a lot and appreciate the fact that you're sharing these. Mopeds are crazy little things, they were a really big deal in San Francisco for awhile, although they seem to have fallen off somewhat. They always looked super fun though, particularly the 'cafe racer' styled ones.


    Reply 7 years ago on Introduction

    Oh, they are fun, Crafty! I've always enjoyed 2stroke small displacement engines and lightweight frames. Mopeds are squirley, yet easy to control. the stock power is nothing to write home about, but with a little tinkering, they can get fairly quick. They all have automatic clutches, which sucks, and most of them are single speed. But I'm well impressed what some folks can do with them. Mopeds are still alive and thriving in SF, by the way..... :)