PVC Skateboard
Intro: PVC Skateboard
[WATCH VIDEO]
I have always found skateboarding to be an interesting sport with all of the tricks and jumps that people can do. I have seen many types of boards, but I wanted to make some thing a little different. I then stumbled across a PVC skateboard, but I could not find any information on how to make one. So I fixed that problem.
I first did a little research on board dimensions and found that they come in many sizes. I knew our board would not be very wide, so I decided to make it about 28 inches long.
Note: The fittings are different from every company, so you may have to adjust the sizes slightly to make everything fit correctly.
Parts Needed:
(ALL 1-inch PVC)
- (4) 90 degree elbows
- (4) 45 degree elbows
- (2) End caps
- (2) Plugs
- 10 foot length of 1-inch Pipe
- 1/4 x 20 Threaded Metal Rod
- 1/4 x 20 Lock Nuts
- PVC Cement
- Trucks with 2-inch machine screws
Tools Needed:
- PVC Cutters
- Drill
- Saw
- Small file
- Marker
- Ruler
If you would like the video version of this Instructable and the embedded video does not appear,
STEP 1: Making the Deck
I wanted the finished project to be about 28 inches long, so after some testing I determined I needed:
two pipes cut to 23.25 inches long and
two pipes cut to 22.50 inches long.
I then laid the pipes side by side with the longer ones on the outside.
On the front, I added an end cap to the center pipes. The outer pipe received a 90-degree elbow facing inward.
On the back of ALL the pipe I added a 45-degree elbow facing upward.
I then cut four 2-inch pipes to go in the outer 45-degree elbows. Onto those pipe I added a 90-degree elbow facing inward.
I now needed to connect the front and rear elbows and a 3.5 inch pipe fit well in both. In the process of adding the 3.5 inch pipe, the inner pipes will be sandwiched tight between the outer pipes. If this is not a tight fit, then the 3.5 inch pipe will need to be shortened a little.
I then added some plugs to rear inner elbows to add just a little more support. They did not need to be fully inserted.
STEP 2: Reinforcing the Deck
Now that I knew everything fit, I disassembled everything and added PVC cement to all of the fittings.
(Make sure all of the fittings are seated and level or the measurements will be off.)
I gave the cement at least 2 hours to dry before proceeding.
It is now time to connect the inner pipes with the outer pipes.
To do this I added a 1/4 x 20 threaded rod through the front and rear of all the pipes.
A drill press would have made quick work of this step, but I did not have one. So I carefully took a ruler and marker and drew a straight line across the top of the fittings at the front and rear of the deck. I then took a drill and made a hole though all of the fittings, making sure everything lined up.
(Make sure the hole goes through the fittings because they are already sandwiched together and will not bend as easily.)
I then measured and trimmed the threaded rod just wider than the rear of the board. I had to hammer it in place because it was a tight fit.
I then added the lock nuts and filed down and sharp edges.
(The rod should not stick out past the nuts, so trim if needed.)
I repeated this step for the front of the board.
The rods will hold the inner and outer pipes together and keep them from twisting.
I tested the deck before adding the trucks and everything appear strong enough.
STEP 3: Adding the Trucks
It was now time to add some trucks.
I found a cheap used $3 skateboard at a local thrift store that had the same deck size as my PVC deck, so I scavenged the trucks from it.
I also had to pick up some long 2-inch machine screws and locking nuts to hold everything together.
I then positioned the trucks where I wanted and marked the holes with a marker.
I drilled each hole and double checked the placement before screwing the trucks in position.
(Make sure not to over tighten the nuts or you can break the pipe.)
STEP 4: Testing the Skateboard
I then took the board out for a test and it preformed wonderfully.
The pipe did not appear to bend or flex under my weight.
I am not a pro skateboarder, so my riding style it not great but it handled my attempts at tricks.
If I was to build this skateboard again, I would have purchased a better set of trucks and some grip tape because the pipe is a little slick.
Overall I would recommend this build if you want a unique skateboard at your local skate park.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Find other awesome projects at www.specificlove.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Just remember that PVC is only a form of hard plastic. It can and will break if too much weight or force is applied and injuries can occur. Please use caution when using anything made from PVC. Use of content for personal projects is at your own risk.
13 Comments
Pezzster 7 years ago
Awesome!
John DuCrest 7 years ago
I would like to see or find a way to incorporate griptape. Maybe you could use some urethane adhesive between the gaps, perhaps using some blue tape and masking off the underside of the board so it does not leak through. When it solidifies it should create a very durable, malleable surface you could attach grip tape too. I love the project, thanks for sharing.
Biodynamic 7 years ago
bobjacksonjr 7 years ago
Since this is made from 1" PVC, I've found that putting the next size smaller PVC tube inside ads rigidity and for even more strength use wooden dowels inside.
SpecificLove 7 years ago
daniel_bingamon 7 years ago
Or use Schedule 80 PVC
JustARobotDude 7 years ago
What about covering the top with some plywood and nailing and/or gluing it down. Then you could add some grip tape too.
mazedicer 7 years ago
I would add another set of bolts right on top and across the trucks for extra strength just like you did for the ends.
RGBFreak 7 years ago
JulianAzz 7 years ago
its so cool.... i really like it!
SpecificLove 7 years ago
thank you
the commoner 7 years ago
SpecificLove 7 years ago
that is where i got the idea to make one