In this instructable I will walk you through step by step on how to create an Inlay serving board out of epoxy.

Step 1: Supplies

I am using a wood species called paduak. (Pick your own color choices of hard wood that suits you)

Epoxy resin Total Boat http://www.totalboat.com/product/high-performance-...

My form is made of Left over Birch Plywood

Tyvek Tape https://www.lowes.com/pd/Tyvek-Tape-1-88-in-x-164-...

Arrow hot glue gun https://www.amazon.com/Arrow-Fastener-TR550-Lever-...

Rustoleum Headlight Restorer https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-Headlight-Re...

Sander.

Drill

Screws

CNC, Planner or Belt Sander

Step 2: Measuring and Set Up

Using a combination of miter saw / table saw I cut my squares to 3.25 (3 1/4). This gave me a 4.5 (4 1/2) diagonal measurement.

Laying out the approach I cut my form base 1/4" over to allow a tight but breathable fit of 1/8" on each side

Step 3: Building the Form

I went with the overlap design as it does not need to look pretty but serve a purpose. Quick and dirty way to ensure you have a solid box.

In the short video you can see I use a counter sink bit pre-drill and then screw everything together to my base.

Step 4: Taping the Form

I am using the tyvek tape listed above. The epoxy will not stick to the tape allowing a clean and easy separation when cured.

This part ended up being a little tricky getting into the corners. Wish I had some better advice here I used a paint can opener that had the rounded back.

Step 5: Adding Squares and Gluing Up the Form

Using hot glue I add a dab to the back of each piece and secure them in place you can see in the video.

As I had the glue gun out I went back over the form and applied glue to all inside corners also shown in the video above.

Step 6: Color Choice and Pouring

This was a tough choice as there was no turning back.

Any pigment coloring will work in epoxy I like the depth pigment adds over paint additives.

But gray it is!

Step 7: Cured and Ready for Flattening

Once the pour is completely cured its time to break the little guy loose. Now grab a rubber hammer and get out some of that anger haha.

Once its out I gave it an over all inspection and moved over to the Shapeoko 3 CNC.

!!!!!NOTE!!!!!!

Here is where some projects may differ Instead of a CNC you can use a planer but you will need to take very small passes extremely slow. Drum Sander would work great. Or a belt sander also would be a nice alternative.

For cnc users Im using a 1.5 inch flattening bit. I first took a little off the bottom to give me a flat surface to work off of. I then flipped it and completely cleaned off the face as you can see.