Paper Stormtrooper Helmet

Introduction: Paper Stormtrooper Helmet

This instructable will show you how to make a scale stormtrooper helmet out of paper.

i made mine for halloween

it took me almost 40 hours

and only cost me about 16 dollars.
(more or less for you, i had some things already, you might be abe to make it for less!) (or moar, beware!!)

thanks and enjoy!
lots of feedback pleasee!

Step 1: Gathering of Matierials

*Pepakura viewer (the english version is best, unless you want to translate japanese to navigate it found here

*this stormtrooper helmet 3d pepakura file.:
found here

*a printer with at least 27 sheets of paper.

*2-3 sheets of posterboard (i used #180 drawing paper)


*a razorknife/utility knife

*a glue stick

*super glue

*bondo or sheetrock brand drywall filler

*assorted grits of sandpaper from 60 to 600

*white gloss spraypaint

*black sharpie/ black marker

*silver/grey marker

  • a square foot of aluminum window screen

  • two sink aerators with screens (yaknow, the things on sinks that makes the water come out nice)

(dont steal them though)

  • about 40 hours of spare time

*the incentive to make a sweet stormtrooper helmet on the cheap.

okay, lets get started.......................

Step 2: Download

step one:

download and install Pepakura viewer 1.03

download and open the Stormtrooper template.

learn how the viewer works.
i.e. learn how to spin/drag the model
how to zoom in and out with your mouse's scroll wheel
how to pick individual pieces
basic navigation controls
(and play around with the settings when you right click in the helmet's window)

Step 3: Print

step two:

print out the 27 pages of the model.

dont worry, it uses a very veryy minimal amount of ink.

Keep them in order!! and keep them some place safe where they wont get creased ormolested in any way. i used a simple pocket folder.

Step 4: The Build:

step three:

start to assemble the helmet

i started with the large round flat surface on the top of the helmet, and worked my way down

lets say you do too

take page 1.1 (seen in the top left of all the sheets in the right window)
coarsly cut out the semi-oval and leave the other parts attached to eachother

using the GLUESTICK glue the whole thing (dotted side up) to the poster board (keep in mind the shape of the part your gluing to the board, you want to make as little waste of the poster board as possible)

give it a minute to set

CAREFULLY cut out the piece on the poster board, keep in mind that the SOLID lines mean CUT and DOTTED lines means FOLD

(some solid lines may look dotted, when in doubt check out the 3d model)

if a part confuses you, refer to the 3d model in Pepakura, it is the master plan and viewing the individual parts can greatly help remedy a situation

Step 5: The Build: (cont.)

step four:

now that you have this jagged, polygonal piece cut out locate all of the glue tabs.
this program includes tabes that are ment to be glued behind another piece or another location of itself to achieve the desiered shape.

score all of the dotted lines with your razor blade, be very carfull not to cut through. i cannot stress that enough.

fold the scores and assemble the part to itself without glue

if a part needs to attach to itself the glue tabs will line up perfectly into eachother
it is usually helpfull to notice the patterns that emerge as you assemble the project.

now, using small drops of super glue, glue the tabs to the tab spots.

1. the tabbs are always triangles
2. the tabs can be EXTREAMLY small
if your finger accidently gets glued to the back of te tab as you hold it to dry, DO NOT PULL your finger off, twist it.

annd remember, if you mess up, print out another piece of paper (you can print individual sheets)

Step 6: Fill and Sand

step five:
spend a few days repeating the last two steps for the rest of the parts of the helmet, till all the parts have made a crude helmet, if you decided to opt for the non-posterboard model, congratulations! your done!

but if you want to wear this as a costume prop, or just for fun, its time to move on to bondo/filler.
the point of the filler is to:
1. smooth out the sharp polygons into rounded features
2. fill gaps left by the paper
3. increase redgidity in the whole structure

crack open your container of filler matierial
if your using bondo or another two-part filler matierial, you need to follow the instructions on the side to properly mix the filler, if your using a one part, dont worry about mixing and dip two or three fingers across the top (like its frosting on a cake and you want a taste, but DONT eat it haha)
and then smear it onto the model into crevices, around pointy parts, give the whole thing a nice even coat. dont try to smooth it out, thats what the sandpaper is for.

let it dry
the longer the better
but im impatient and i got mine to dry completly under heat lamps in about 6 hours.

then start sanding
start with the coarsest to remove large bumps, and gradually go down to the lowest grit (mine went from 60 to 600)

1. do not directly sand sharp edges, its easy to sand through them
2. if you over-sand or sand through the filler, you can always add moar.
3 spend alot of time on this step, this is what your final product is going to look like, if theres a line, you will see it in the paint, i neglected to pace myself with this step, and had a deadline to meet, so mine was half-assed on this step, and could have come out much, much better.
4. a dust mask would be a VERY good idea, unless you want white boogers, or to have an asthma attack.

Step 7: Paint!

step six


coat the helmet in the gloss white spraypaint in a ventilated approved painting area.
let it dry

1. the filler is thirsty, it soaks up alot of the paint
2. once the surface looks shiny the filler is full
3, dont get too close when painting, this can cause drips and then you would have to sand again.

Step 8: Markers!

step seven:
using pictures of stormtrooper helmets, use the silver and black markers to fill in the appropriot markings vents and needed areas. (paint can also be used in this step, its just easier with markers, and still comes out well. a good alternative is paint markers)

1. white out works well on mistakes, just cover 'em up.

Step 9: Eyes and Chrome Thingys

step eight:

take your square foot of window screen, and fold it in half twice.
this will leave you with a square of screen four layers thick
stapel the edgs to keep them in place

cut diagonally across the square, so you have two screen triangles, four layers thick.
Hot glue the screens in for the eyes (if you were religious about making your helmet, you probably made the paper eye inserts. Cut them out before adding the screen)
The large part of the triangle should be towards the bridge of the nose.

Then glue the sink aerators in the front bubbles
(again, if you made the paper versions, cut them out, it looks a lot better with the chrome sink parts.)

oh, its been brough to my attention that the neck opening on the bottem is wayyy to small for somones head to fit through. you have two options:

A: the easiest and simplest way to fix this problem is to do as i did, and cut out a good section of your helmet on the bottem, as seen in the attached picture.
this simple solution is not noticeable when its on, ands its also alot easier to get the thing on and off.

B: you can make it fit very snugly, and give it a very professional look, if my make the helmate a two-piece. clamshell style having the "mask" part of the helmet seperate from the top and back. Darth vader style. i did not attempt this style because it was just a novelty halloween helmet, if this was a genuine one, it would be a clamshell. i do not reccomend this way but if you are adventurous enough, and dont have the heart to take a pair of scissors to your finely crafted helmet, (even though both ways requier cutting, this method doesnt lose any matierial) go for it. but you have been warned

also, if when your wearing the helmet, your eys dont quite meet up with the holes, try wearing the helmet with a beanie on it will raise the helmet a bit and keep it steady as you move.



thankyou everyone for learning from my instructable!

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    9 years ago on Step 9

    Good job, but u can agree a little more dedications!!! and will be ok!!


    11 years ago on Introduction

    wait your saying that really long piece is all one piece?


    Reply 11 years ago on Introduction

    yes, the long curved pieces are a single piece for the brim

    in the pepekura program you can highlight the image of wheat was printed and it will show you the brim hilighted on the 3d helmet model

    the best thing to do is print outeverything at once, cut out the little pieces around the brim that you need
    and toss the brim

    its going to take a good deal of time to make the brim how the program wants you to

    save yourself the 10 hours of delicate work and nix the brim and sharpie it on


    11 years ago on Introduction

    why dose the PDO file have like 5 or 6 pieces stuck together?
    if its just me HALP!!!


    Reply 11 years ago on Introduction

    yes the really long spidery pieces are supposed to be the eyebrow section

    you can:

    a) continue witht the helmet as planned but you would have to cut outall those super skinny pieces and wedges to glue with

    b) like i did and just sharpied the eyebrow onto the helmet
    i did not make the eyebrow piece because it is very complex

    and all it makes is a rectangle that arces above the eyes haha


    11 years ago on Step 9

    thats a sweet starwars fact! thanks for checking out my instructable!


    11 years ago on Step 9

    Those chrome thingies were microphones in the actual movie. In case one of the stormtroopers needed to talk, those holes were big enough to fit a mic inside.


    12 years ago on Step 2

    how do you find the template?


    Reply 12 years ago on Introduction

    in step one, it says " download the stormtrooper template here. and the word "here" is in blue. click on the word and it will take you to the site i have it saved to. the site only has a short sentence on it, where you click another blue word and the template will download to your desktop. the file is a RAR file, so after downloading, use a program like WinRar to extract the file. (right click, extract here) then (if you have pepakura installed) open the extracted file with pepakura and there ya go.


    Reply 12 years ago on Step 2

    hi . can you put the file here..? thx in advance


    Reply 12 years ago on Introduction

    the files are on the step one page just read and follow the link, all the links work


    Reply 12 years ago on Introduction

    sorry about that .. i speak little English ... BTW thx so much for the helmet, i was looking for this file long time .. i will post my pics of the trooper helmet and my head ..i finish my own head in pepakura and facegen..


    12 years ago on Step 1

    Most people might have trouble learning how to do pepakura. (jez halo helmet only needs 21 pages) other than that thx.


    Reply 12 years ago on Introduction

    i tryed to describe the use of the program in as much of a vernacular as possible. i found out about the program and dove right into this project with no prior experience without any help, so it shouldent be too hard for other "avarage joes" to pick it up the "halo" master chief helmet is much more boxy then a stormie helmet. when pepekura makes a modle of somthing it translates it into polygons. with the storm trooper helmet being exclusivly curved surfaces it makes it much more complicated, but not to the point of being hard. i have also made the master chief helmet and it is much the same difficulty, this project however, just takes more time. if you downloaded the stormie model, you can see that the "brim" part (the black stripe above the eyes) takes up alot of page surface. this is because its made in long winding strips, but in general volume sense the helmates use about the same amount of paper. the stormtrooper one is just 100X cooler thanks!