Introduction: Parquet Covered Floating Vanity

About: I am a maker and here I am sharing the fun stuff of making and creating! Apart from fun my goal is to share knowledge and acquire it. My topics are woodworking, metalworking, maybe some composites, electronic…

Before we hit off, a little explaination on why I wanted to make this vanity.

In my house I made a new bathroom in a different room. My house is small so my bathroom is small. And I could buy a vanity. And there are types which are not big but I had a odd little space where it should go.

So making one custom is a great solution.
To spice things up I used oak parquet to cover the vanity, more on that later. The parquet part brings another level of difficulty but the vanity can just simply and nicely made from high quality plywood.

If you are interested I have a free set of drawings on my website of this vanity. And I have a video series on creating the bathroom in total:

Step 1: Design

The reason why I wanted a vantiy as floating shelves because they give a 'light' impression when it is in the room. And it makes it look smaller. Which could be relevant in a small space.

The open shelves are inspired by a kitchen made by Ben Uyeda. He has made a video about it on his channel. Home Made Modern:

I found it very bold to use open shelving instead of a drawer cabinet for instance where you can stowe away anything. The visible contents force you to consider to be tidy and organized.

Go watch it if you are unfiliar with Ben's work!

Step 2: Assembling Panels

The shelves are constructed with OSB panels. The panels were butt-jointed together. First I used glue with a pinnail and then used a few screws.
Very straight forward and plenty sturdy.

Step 3: French Cleat

The last step of assembly was making a french cleat to hang the vanity on. The cleat is attached just under the top surface.

Step 4: Starting With Parquet

For the horizontal surfaces I used something we call here 'mosaic parquet'. These small pieces are cut offs from waste wood in the factory.

I start in one corner making a 'rim' on the surface. The corners are mitered. In the whole process I mark the length of the workpiece and then cut it with the miter saw. After some practise you will get the hang of it how precise you can make the measurements and cuts.

Small gaps like 0.1 to 0.5 mm are acceptable. (1/64 to 1/32").

Step 5: Gluing

So the first corner is cut. I applied the glue with a spatula. And places the wood, secured it with a pinnail.
Pay attention that the pieces are neatly placed.

Step 6: The Rim

The rim was done first and next row on the inside was glue in. The last piece in the row was cut to their length and glued.

Step 7: Rinse and Repeat

After the first row and rim was placed the process was repeated to fill in the whole surface.

The pattern I used was half-lap. The next row will pass over 'half' over the next piece of wood.

The last row to the rim was a smaller than the wood pieces so they were needed to cut to width.

Step 8: The Vertical Surfaces

The remaining vertical surfaces were covered with larger oak parquet pieces. Some needed to be cut to width to fit. For instance the vertical rim around the horizontal surfaces.

I started with the sides and then finished with the front surfaces to create a nice front. I applied multiple pinnails to the pieces to prevent warping from the glue.

Step 9: Sanding

When all surfaces were glued everything was sanded coarsely.
The glue make some pieces stick out more than others. I used 50 grit sand paper for this.

Step 10: Gap Filler

To fill in the small gaps and cracks I used a filler. In essence this is wood glue but then less viscose. The product I used was Stucco AQ. This was fabricated in Italy, in different parts of the world other producers will probably exist.

I placed sanding dust on the top surface and made a puddle of the filler, mixed until the emulsion was one color. Then I went over the surface covering all the uneven spots. This process might be repeated a few times to fill all spots.

Step 11: Final Sanding

When the filler was cured. I sanded the surfaces starting with 50 grit and working up to 220 grit. This made the wood already very smooth. But you can go higher up to polising levels. Then you can apply wax after the finish was cured.

Step 12: Finish

The finish I used was a high quality floor finish. This is a oil and not a varnish. I would suggest a oil because this will penetrate the wood and will make it waterproof.

I applied a generous coat and removed the excess oil with a clean rag when it was curing.

Step 13: Mounting

I used 5 wall anchors to attach the french cleat to the stone wall. If you have a hollow wooden wall, attach it to the studs.

I screwed in the the fastners partly and make scratches with them on the wall where to drill the holes for the anchors.

Step 14: Drilling Holes

To accomodate the water lines, in and outgoing, I used a hole saw to make notches and holes. This is measured out and I used a bigger holesaw to accomodate measurement errors.

Step 15: And Finished!

And the last step was attaching the plumbing and hoses. After that enjoy your hard work!

I hope you enjoyed this and that it might inspire you!

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