Introduction: Perfect Sawhorses: Adjustable and Knock-down Design
* Adjustable
* Strong/Sturdy
* Don't require a lot of space to store (ie. knock-down)
* Economical (approximately $15 per sawhorse)
* You would enjoy, or at least have some ability in, assembling pieces of wood
If you have some or all of the above criteria for a set of sawhorses then these will be perfect for you.
Noteworthy:
* The design was inspired by this plan:
http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Indoor-Projects/Workshop/DIY-Tips-For-Your-Shop/workshop-organization-tips/Step-By-Step#step1
* The finished weight of the saw horse is about 20 pounds.
* Strong/Sturdy
* Don't require a lot of space to store (ie. knock-down)
* Economical (approximately $15 per sawhorse)
* You would enjoy, or at least have some ability in, assembling pieces of wood
If you have some or all of the above criteria for a set of sawhorses then these will be perfect for you.
Noteworthy:
* The design was inspired by this plan:
http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Indoor-Projects/Workshop/DIY-Tips-For-Your-Shop/workshop-organization-tips/Step-By-Step#step1
* The finished weight of the saw horse is about 20 pounds.
Step 1: Tools Required
Required:
* Drill
* Drill bits (1/2", 1/4", and smaller)
* Wrenches or Socket set
* Skill saw and/or Miter saw
* Pencil
* Level
* Various clamps
Suggested:
* Sandpaper (80 or 120 grit)
* Protractor
* Vise
* Drill
* Drill bits (1/2", 1/4", and smaller)
* Wrenches or Socket set
* Skill saw and/or Miter saw
* Pencil
* Level
* Various clamps
Suggested:
* Sandpaper (80 or 120 grit)
* Protractor
* Vise
Step 2: Materials Required
This list is for two saw horses (measurements in inches):
***Wood***
Qty Description
------------------------------------------------
4 2x4 8 foot (96") stud
3 1x4 8 foot (96") furring strip/stud
1 2x2 8 foot (96") furring strip/stud
***Hardware***
Qty Description
------------------------------------------------
8 4 1/2 x 1/4 carriage bolts
8 3 1/2 x 1/4 carriage bolts
16 1/4 x 1 1/4 fender washers
16 1/4 nuts
4 3/64 x 1 9/16 safety pins
1 1/2 wooden dowel
- 1 1/4 wood screws
- 2 wood screws
- 2 1/2 wood screws
Wood glue is optional for some of the joints
***Wood***
Qty Description
------------------------------------------------
4 2x4 8 foot (96") stud
3 1x4 8 foot (96") furring strip/stud
1 2x2 8 foot (96") furring strip/stud
***Hardware***
Qty Description
------------------------------------------------
8 4 1/2 x 1/4 carriage bolts
8 3 1/2 x 1/4 carriage bolts
16 1/4 x 1 1/4 fender washers
16 1/4 nuts
4 3/64 x 1 9/16 safety pins
1 1/2 wooden dowel
- 1 1/4 wood screws
- 2 wood screws
- 2 1/2 wood screws
Wood glue is optional for some of the joints
Step 3: Cut List
Again, measurements are in inches
[2x4]
Qty Measurement Description
-----------------------------------------------------------
2 30 Top
4 14 1/2 Top Supports
4 20 Leg Sides
8 21 Legs
[1x4]
Qty Measurement Description
-----------------------------------------------------------
4 9 Leg Supports
4 30 Top cross pieces
2 27 Bottom cross piece
[2x2]
Qty Measurement Description
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
2 23 Bottom piece of the Top Assembly
[Angled Cuts]
The Legs and Leg Supports will require angled cuts. I decided with 30 and 60 degree cuts, but you could modify to use only 45 degree cuts to keep it as simple as possible.
The Legs have a 30 degree angle where it will rest on the floor and a 60 degree angle where it will rest against the 'Leg Side' (see picture). The 60 degree cut can be done by hand (would take awhile though), with a fancy miter saw that goes to 60 degrees, with a skill or circular saw, or by clamping a jig to a miter saw set to 30 degrees and the board perpendicular to the miter saw fence.
The Leg Supports (1x4) are easier with two 30 degree cuts.
[2x4]
Qty Measurement Description
-----------------------------------------------------------
2 30 Top
4 14 1/2 Top Supports
4 20 Leg Sides
8 21 Legs
[1x4]
Qty Measurement Description
-----------------------------------------------------------
4 9 Leg Supports
4 30 Top cross pieces
2 27 Bottom cross piece
[2x2]
Qty Measurement Description
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
2 23 Bottom piece of the Top Assembly
[Angled Cuts]
The Legs and Leg Supports will require angled cuts. I decided with 30 and 60 degree cuts, but you could modify to use only 45 degree cuts to keep it as simple as possible.
The Legs have a 30 degree angle where it will rest on the floor and a 60 degree angle where it will rest against the 'Leg Side' (see picture). The 60 degree cut can be done by hand (would take awhile though), with a fancy miter saw that goes to 60 degrees, with a skill or circular saw, or by clamping a jig to a miter saw set to 30 degrees and the board perpendicular to the miter saw fence.
The Leg Supports (1x4) are easier with two 30 degree cuts.
Step 4: Assembly (1 of 3): Legs
See pictures for instruction ...
Step 5: Assembly (2 of 3): Horizontal Supports
Once you get two leg assemblies together you can join them with the Top Cross Pieces. I used clamps to keep everything in place as I drilled holes.
These two Top Cross Pieces aren't enough to keep the entire sawhorse square if someone/thing were to lean on it from the side, so I added a Bottom Cross Piece which I attached with 1 1/4 inch wood screws.
These two Top Cross Pieces aren't enough to keep the entire sawhorse square if someone/thing were to lean on it from the side, so I added a Bottom Cross Piece which I attached with 1 1/4 inch wood screws.
Step 6: Assembly (3 of 3): Adjustable Top
The Top Assembly:
First, attach the bottom with the supports with 2 1/2 inch wood screws (recommended to pre-drill the holes). I put 2 screws in each side. See the picture for how I used clamps to keep it all in place.
Next, slide those pieces into place and clamp the Top of the 'Top Assembly' to the rest of the saw horse while also clamping the Top Supports so they don't move while drilling holes through the Top.
(See the pictures for more detail)
First, attach the bottom with the supports with 2 1/2 inch wood screws (recommended to pre-drill the holes). I put 2 screws in each side. See the picture for how I used clamps to keep it all in place.
Next, slide those pieces into place and clamp the Top of the 'Top Assembly' to the rest of the saw horse while also clamping the Top Supports so they don't move while drilling holes through the Top.
(See the pictures for more detail)