Pint Fender Battery (PFB)

Disclaimer: This WILL void your warranty. Attempt at your own risk. I am not responsible for any damages as a result of attempting this project.

This is my first attempt at making an extended range battery pack for the Pint. This is a project I am actively working on improving and will update this page as I make improvements. I will refer to this battery module itself as the PFB, Pint Fender Battery, from here on out.

UPDATE: Link to video of how to install everything.

Designed to not need a spot welder.
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How to operate VNR (Vampire and Ride) systems without errors:

Charging: While Pint and PFB are both turned off. Plug in charger. Turn on PFB. Once fully charged. Turn off PFB. Unplug charger.

Riding: While pint and PFB are both turned off. Power on Pint. Turn on PFB. Enjoy. When your done turn off PFB. Turn off Pint.

Note: Not following these instructions will NOT damage your Pint as far as I have seen, however error 16 will appear on the app, your board will not turn off by pressing the power button, and it will tell you to power cycle your Pint. You will not be able power cycle your pint without first switching off the PFB.

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I’d be happy to build one for you please contact me directly for details.

Thank you for reading and supporting this project!
If you read through this and think this is impossible to do yourself message me directly for assistance.

All feedback is welcome!

FAQ
Q: Is there a BMS?
A: No, this was just intended as a proof of concept and I was able to monitor the cells closely with a volt meter. I used bottom balancing and a fuse as my balance/protection strategy. Future versions/any that I build for a customer will have one.It is highly recommended to include one in your build.

Q: How much extra range?
A: More than double with 3500mah SANYO cells

Q: How long does this take to make?
A: Hard to say it took me about 24 hours the first time because I made mistakes but I think I could make another in less than 8 hours. I will update once I finish the second version.

Supplies

Here is everything you need for this project. I will start with listing the materials and parts and then the tools and consumables.

Materials and parts:
(Quantity) Part Description Link
(5) 3x18650 Cell Holders https://amzn.to/2Nb8GTR
(25ft+) 18awg Wire Black https://amzn.to/2QQ8uKs
(25ft+) 18awg Wire Red https://amzn.to/35nmGQx
(2 pair) XT60 Connectors https://amzn.to/39FnnrK
(15) 18650 SANYO 3500mah cells (Ebay)
(2m) 135mm width Black Heatshrink https://amzn.to/2rorA1l
(1) Neoprene Foam https://amzn.to/2QOU2lQ
(1) Adhesive Backed Velcro https://amzn.to/33rS93X
(2) 18" to 24” Velcro Straps https://amzn.to/2WULAnK
(4) Hooks (3D print or buy metal) https://amzn.to/2ZOUHYG
(1) 10A Switch https://amzn.to/2sEx0X8
(1) 10A fuse https://amzn.to/2QpxSb0

Contact me if you would like to purchase a kit with almost everything you need and nothing extra. For example there is no need for an entire roll of velcro when I can just cut you off the two pieces you need etc.

Tools and consumables:
5-Point Pentalobe Security Bit TS20 https://amzn.to/2sQqc8P
T30 (3/8" drive required), T20, and T9 torx bits https://amzn.to/2QrTwvu
3/8" Socket Wrench https://amzn.to/39BNTCp
Solder Iron https://amzn.to/39GRQ8U
Solder https://amzn.to/2ty5ivi
Wire Stripper https://amzn.to/2FqZqX3
Flux Pen https://amzn.to/2SSiqpr
Helping Hands https://amzn.to/2MV0RkU
Scissors https://amzn.to/39DN5Nh
Voltmeter https://amzn.to/35na0Jl
Wire Bending Pliers https://amzn.to/2QpzGRf
Heat Shrink Variety https://amzn.to/2MXsaLg
Heat Gun https://amzn.to/2WS4ls8
Hot Glue Gun https://amzn.to/37yLSF6
Zip Tie https://amzn.to/2SU8RGK
Electric Tape https://amzn.to/2sMD1AX
Blue Locktite Thread Locker https://amzn.to/2sQVc8w
Black RTV Silicone https://amzn.to/2QUz19o

Disclaimer: LedoBuilds may earn an affiliate commission when you buy through the links above.

Step 1: Connect the Cell Holders in Series

PLEASE NOTE: All photos will show 2x22awg stranded wires for both the black and red wires this is not recommended it is simply what I had on hand. I am waiting to get my solid core 18awg black and red wire to update. It is much easy to make with 1x18awg solid core wire for both the red and black wires. Solid core is slightly smaller than stranded since there is no air gaps.

Option 1: Solder to the pins on the bottom of the cell holders. (Recommended)

Option 2: Remove the contacts from the cell holders by pressing in the locking pin and pushing the contact pin down onto a hard surface simultaneously. Then solder the wires to the contacts such that you can still push them back in when your done. This proved to be difficult to do and take a bunch of time to complete.

Start at one corner and add the Main Pos wire then snake through adding the connections until you reach the opposite corner where you add the Neg Wire.

Step 2: Add 10A Fuse to the Negative Wire Then Hot Glue in Place

Add the 10A Fuse to the Neg Wire then hot glue to the cell holders.

Step 3: Solder Switch and XT 60 Connector to PFB

Cut Pos and Neg Wires to Length

About 4in long from where they exit the PFB at the corner of the cell holders to there ends

About 1.75in from the PFB add the on/off switch to the negative wire.

Add Xt60 Connector to the ends paying close attention to polarity.

Step 4: Add 18650 Cells at Similar Voltages in Series Config

Discharge all cells to same voltage.

Install cells in series config into cell holder negative to positive. Check that the voltage increases each time you add a cell.

Final voltage at the xt60 should be 40V to 63V.

Double Check Voltages and Polarity.

Add BMS at this point if you like.

Step 5: It Is Highly Recommended to Add a BMS to the PFB at This Point.

I will add more details once I receive my BMS.

Step 6: Cover in Adhesive Neoprene Foam

This is a new process I completed on a 4S pack as a test and it turned out so good I am including it here.

Simply cut the foam into a long strip the width of the cell holders and wrap all the way around long ways.

Then cut out strips to cover the ends.

Step 7: Slip Over Heatshrink and Shrink With Heat Conforming to Fender to Hold Shape.

Don't trim until after you heatshrink it.
Leave about 3-5in past the ends of the battery.
Heat the ends first to prevent crinkling.

Trim edges then heat again.

Step 8: Add Velcro Strips to Fender and PFB

Cut 1-2" strips and place on fender and PFB so they line up.

Step 9: Add 2 Hooks to Each of Two Velcro Straps 24” Long

You can 3D print hooks or buy metal hooks.

Step 10: Solder Two XT60 End to End

Offset them ever so slightly as shown in the photos to make install easy.

Step 11: Add Pos and Neg Wire to the Xt60 Pair

PLEASE NOTE: All photos will show 2x22awg stranded wires for both the black and red wires this is not recommended it is simply what I had on hand. I am waiting to get my solid core 18awg black and red wire to update. It is much easy to make with 1x18awg solid core wire for both the red and black wires. Solid core is slightly smaller than stranded since there is no air gaps.

The internal wiring of the Pint is reverse of what is printed on the XT60 connector. Which is why red positive is going on the negative side of the XT60 and vice versa. (Check with a voltmeter)

I also added conformal coating and some electrical tape to cover the exposed metal.

Step 12: Cut the Wire to About 24” Long

The following note is purely optional:

Add small banana plugs to the leads so that if made and given to someone else they can pass the wires through the grommet without the need to solder the final XT60 connector.

Step 13: Disassemble the Pint Completely Until You Just Have the Battery Box and the Controller Box Connected by That Thick Black Wire.

DO NOT RECOMMEND using a tiny screwdriver bit to get the wheel axle bolts off. Get a 3/8” drive T30 torx head and use a 3/8” socket wrench to get them off and on. I broke my screwdriver bit.

Step 14: Remove the TS20 Security Screws Around the Aluminum Battery Cover.

Step 15: Remove the Pint's BMS Cover With T9 Bit and Familiarize Yourself With the Internal Wireing.

Step 16: Unplug the XT60 Connector That Goes to the Controller and Install the Double Ended XT60

PLEASE NOTE: All photos will show 2x22awg stranded wires for both the black and red wires this is not recommended it is simply what I had on hand. I am waiting to get my solid core 18awg black and red wire to update. It is much easy to make with 1x18awg solid core wire for both the red and black wires. Solid core is slightly smaller than stranded since there is no air gaps.

Remove the aluminum battery box plate.

Unscrew the 2 T9 screws holding down the Pint's BMS cover.

Sqeeze and pull off the short 16 Pin connector.

Unplug the XT60 going to the controller.

Plug in the Double ended XT60 you just made.

Plug in the Controller XT60.

Route the wires as neat as possible.

Bend the controller power wires about 10 times along the length with the wire bending pliers to shorten them a few inchs to get everything to fit.

Route the wires you added and the smaller wires under the charge port.

Route the controller power wires above the charge port.

Step 17: Unscrew the Top of Grommet Exiting the Battery Box

You will need a big adjustable wrench.

Step 18: Thread the Wires Through the Grommet.

Add a drop of Black RTV Silicone to the grommet to improve the water proof seal.

Step 19: Reassemble the Pint and Turn on to Check Everything Went Well.

Add Locktite Threadlocker to bolts when you reassemble.

Step 20: Cut Wires to Length

Cut wires to about 2-3in in length from the gromet so you can lay the xt60 flat on the rail.

And add the XT 60.

Double check polarity of PFB and pint are all going to match up correctly.

Step 21: Ziptie to Side Rail Pushing Wires Away From the Moving Wheel.

Step 22: Attach the PFB to the Fender With Velcro Straps

Step 23: Confirm Voltage of PFB Is Similar to Voltage of Pint Then Connect With Switch Off.

Step 24: Turn Pint on Then Turn Switch On

Step 25: Your Ready to Ride.

Step 26: Turn Off PFB Then Turn Off Onewheel When Ur Done Riding.

Step 27: To Charge. Plug in Pint. Then Turn on PFB. Once Charged. Turn Off PFB. Then Unplug Pint Charger..

You can leave the PFB installed at all times if you like.

Thank you for reading and supporting this project!

If you read through this and think this is impossible to do yourself message me directly for assistance.

All feedback is welcome.

Comments

[snowj720]

Are you selling these? If so, deets?

[diy0307]

This is super awesome.

[Blake_W]

I have an XR and would be very interested in building something similar for it (although I'd need to double or triple the number of cells to add significant range). How is your battery holding up to riding, crashing, etc. now that you've had it for a little while?

[LedoBuilds]

Everything works great still holding up really well have gone about 400miles so far. The 3D printed hooks i made break if you crash hard and the board rolls over onto the hooks so might be worth getting metal ones. The switch I am using on my original prototype started to give out but is working now so I would say get the best switch you can not just what you have lying around.

[Blake_W]

That's great to hear. I presume that you used the battery holders so that you wouldn't need a spot welder? Are there any downsides to using them? I wondered if they might have any problems with cells losing contact with all the vibration, but maybe the foam and tight shrinkwrap are enough to keep everything solid? For my XR I'd probably want to build a 15S4P battery, so I guess I'd use 15 of the 4 cell holders. Did you end up adding a BMS to your battery? If so, what did you go with? Thanks in advance. You did an incredible job on this project, looks great and the instructions are awesome!

[LedoBuilds]

Cell holders have been working perfectly. I have used this bms https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32780544801.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1b3c4c4d0OQ4S6. You should mock up the size of the15S4P pack. that is alot of battery to fit on the fender even considering the XR being slightly bigger. You could bungy cord water bottles to the fender until you get the same weight to validate your design and make sure the fender can handle it. Thats going to weigh 6-7lbs or about a gallon of water.
With 1P like in my design I only need 1 fuse since the current passes through each cell equally. When you do 4P its recommended to have cell level fuses to prevent one bad cell from ruining your day. Since one cell in the 4P group going bad will affect the other 3 cells unless they are all fused.

[Blake_W]

That's really good advice. I think that it probably makes more sense to start with a smaller battery pack to get some experience with it, maybe 15S1P or at most 15S2P and then see how it works out before building such a big (and heavy) battery. I guess another approach would be to select something other than standard 18650 cells so that I get more mAH per cell. I think that the 21700's can be up to 5000mAH, which would add a lot of range with a 2P battery pack. But I don't know if cell holders are available in that bigger size so I can avoid spot welding?

[LedoBuilds]

I think going with the Samsung E50 cell would be a great idea. I havn’t posted it yet but I printed a custom cell holder to fit the fender curve perfectly and used off the shell metal spring cell clips which is one option to avoid the spot welder. If you dont have a printer or a spot welder you could also just solder the cells its just not the best way to do it but it still works.

[Webst]

Great job. I’m making that same thing as soon as I get my Bestech BMS. What did you order?

[LedoBuilds]

Went with this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32780544801.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1b3c4c4d0OQ4S6

[Strophe]

Thanks this is amazing. I noticed in your video that you have a temperature sensor on the battery. Does that mean you've used a different BMS in the end? Is so, what did you use? Thanks

[LedoBuilds]

Link to bms above comes with a temp sensor.

[Webst]

Also have you checked what is the model of battery that’s inside of pint?

[andyjoiner0101]

15 X Murata US18650VTC5D
* Nominal Capacity : 2800 mAh ( 10.08 Wh)
* Rated Capacity : 2700 mAh ( 9.72 Wh)
* Average Operating Voltage : 3.60 V
* Charging Voltage: 4.2 V

[LedoBuilds]

Its probably 2500-3000mah 18650s that can discharge 10-20A continuous.

[dfedronic]

Hello
how can I order a pfb?
thankd
dom

[LedoBuilds]

Chat with me on facebook or send me your email.

https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/madison/?ref=bookmarks&app_id=1606854132932955&__big_pipe_on__&fb_dtsg_ag=AQySe7mQ3YxitfROCQGankyxo1G0ZbXsZXuGT0x28l9nnA%3AAQxjiG9qnT9khnpQFEcxifL2C14CCE-PhecWjw3pdLjPjg&jazoest=28136#!/marketplace/item/3009930742367670/

[Webst]

Why not directly connect to the controller compartment, much more space ant there's even cable size hole protected with just a sticker? Have you considered that?

[michaelmorar1]

Hi. I look forward to reading your updates on this extended range set up for the PIN as you make them. Great job. I have a related question and I hope it makes sense the way I ask. If I am buying a Non-FluidMotion Ultra Charger (63V 3A) for the PINT... I believe the wire configuration for the XR is a Female XLR (Gx16-3), configured -1,+2,+3. It seems this configuration is not the usual or Stock configuration for most Chinese manufacturing companies that make these chargers. The XR configuration almost gets me there but then I would need to buy the adapter, which I may do, but would rather now if no need. So, it seems an even better idea is to order the charger with the correct configuration on the output cable (G x 16-2) ???? Do you know how the output cable configuration on the Gx16-2? I refuse to pay $110 for FM OW branded ultra charger so any info would be great. Thanks, Michael

[LedoBuilds]

This is what I did:
Bought china charger 63V 3A.
Had old hover board charger. Extracted 2 of the 3 female pins from the connector as they are about the right size.
Printed the 2-pin plug super glued in the female pins from hover board charger conector and soldered up.