Introduction: Plexiglas Computer
Hello everyone
My brother ( Zack ) has got a birthday on October. and his Living room computer decided to commit suicide
Since i love building stuff ( Especially from Plexiglas ) i made him a super cool HTPC Computer with a case of Plexiglas !
Enjoy !
:)
Step 1: Purchase List
The Things you need to buy in order to complete this Instructable are:
Material :
1 x 1.5 Meter of Regular 4 MM Plexiglas
60 x 15 CM of Black 3 MM Plexiglas
Computer Parts :
MotherBoard (Intel H67 )
Cpu (Intel G2030 )
Cooling Fan for CPU (Zalman )
Power supply (Slim Seasonic 250Watt )
HDD 320GB
Chassis Fan
2 Switches ( On/OFF & Reset )
Small LED Strip
Tools and peripherals :
Bolts and Nuts ( 120 or so )
Drill +Drill kit
Saw + Special blade for metal - best for cutting plastic
Electric driller
Wires for LED and for lengthening the Chassis Fan
Hot Glue
Tin with Tin snips ( For brackets of HDD )
Dremel Tool + Dremel Kit
Clamps
Aluminum angles
Working Gloves
Caliber
And off we go !
Step 2: Cutting the Plexiglas
Take the measures of the Future to be Computer case and cut the Plexiglas with a Jigsaw
Step 3: Arrange All the Hardware on Plexiglas
Place the Motherboard , fans, HDD, and Power Supply on the Plexiglas - figure out how you would want everything to be placed.
Make sure to think ahead, maybe in the future you would want to add an additional HDD , or and additional Cooling FAN.
Step 4: Cut Side Opening for the Chassis Fan
Since the fan is the highest part i will Measure it`s height and cut accordingly the Plexiglas
Step 5: Create an Opening for the Rear Bracket of the Mother Board and PSU
Each motherboard comes with this Aluminum bracket
Moreover i had to cut the rear Plexiglas to match the Power Supply opening
It is very easy to break the Plexiglas , so be careful when you cut it, especially when you cut one piece of Plexiglas multiple times ( in multiple places).
Step 6: Create a Bracket for HDD
The HDD will be in a standing position , for that i had to cut with Tin Snips aluminum sheet
From past experience , It is very easy to cut yourself , so please use special Gloves
Step 7: Create Legs for the Case
Create legs for the case in order it will stand still and be stable
Step 8: Assemble the Aluminum Angles
Take measures and mark each and every place you would want the angles to sit.
Make sure you choose a good neutral place that wont interrupt the motherboard or other parts that will be assembled later
Step 9: Create Spacers for the Motherboard
You would want the Motherboard to have space between the Plexiglas ( for Heat dissipation and for safety issue )
I took a new rubber pipe , cut 8 pieces ( That match the 8 holes of the MB ) and drilled the Plexiglas accordingly
Step 10: Let the Assembly Begin!
Now we need to start the initial Assembly.
That means that we will assemble everything ,make sure that it works properly. and then we will disassemble it in order to peal off The Protective layer of the Plexiglas ( Nylon )
Step 11: Still Assembling
Step 12: Create an LED Stripe and Connect It to the PSU
I had an LED strip ( 5M )
I only needed 4 cm.
After soldering two small points on the LED strip , i connected a MOLEX connector to the LED strip.
Step 13: Solder Two Small Switches for the ON/OFF & Reset
I used two of this rubbish switches.
Why i got to this conclusion that they are rubbish ?
Well , i started to work with the computer , and suddenly it did a reboot all by itself.
I eliminated the problem of the OS , but it still did not solve it.
I then started to disassemble the whole parts of the computer .. started with the Memory ( No problem ) , the FANS ( No problem ) , The HDD ( No problem )
THE COMPUTER WAS STILL REBOOTING!!
I ran a 3rd party diagnostic and nothing came up , i even stress test the MB & CPU but nothing came up.
And then i told to my self " maybe it is the Switches ?!?! "
And it was !!
I disassembled them and burned them!!!@
Overall it took me more than 6 hours just to figure out it was the problem.
Bottom line - don`t but cheap products , there is a greater risk that they will break !
Step 14: New Switches
Step 15: Insert Two LED Lights ( HDD & Power ) Into Front Plexiglas
Two regular LED lights that connect directly to the Motherboard and gives us indication on the status of the system ( ON/OFF etc` )
I drilled two small holes in the Plexiglas , and inserted inside the LED and applied HOT GLUE on it to stay in place
Step 16: Assemble Front USB Jack
Got from my stash a USB Connector.
I drilled two holes in the bottom front case and attached it with a cable tie.
i then measured with a Caliber the width of the USB and took the measures and cut the front Plexiglas panel.
Step 17: Extend FAN Cable
The fan was sitting perfectly fine , but he was too far from the MB connector
So i had to cut it`s wires , solder longer ones , and wrap it with " Shrinkers "
Step 18: Install Windows !
Installed Windows 7 Sp1 x64
Installed all the Latest drivers and added all third party software needed.
Step 19: Disassembling Everything and Peeling Off the Protective Layer of the Plexiglas
Now we are starting to enter the final stage .
I Disassembled everything , and removed the Plexiglas protective nylon.
then i started to put everything back together.
Step 20: Clear Case!
Starting to look AWESOME !
Step 21: Assembling the Motherboard
I placed all the rubber spacers beneath the Motherboard , and then i placed it
Step 22: Assembling the Power Supply
The Power supply was not easy.
If you place it inside the Case, and you shove the power cord from the outer side of the case then the whole Power supply is moving And isn`t placed properly
So i have to mount this small bracket in order to keep the PSU from moving
Step 23: Assembling the HDD
Step 24: Add Small Net on the Side of the FANS
I Cut a plastic net in the size of the square.
And then i painted it in BLACK
Step 25: Completed!
That`s it.
The assembly has finished ! Finally!
Overall it took me 80 hours or so to finish this project , i`m very happy with the result !
The computer itself is very quiet ( Plexiglas is a very good isolating material ) ,you can enjoy watching movies , Browsing the Web,Hearing music ( via the 7.1 Optical capability )
Comments are welcomed!
:)
20 Comments
9 years ago
This is really awesome!!! Good project.
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
Thanks a lot!
9 years ago
Nice job!!
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
Thanks !
9 years ago on Introduction
Nice job!
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
Thanks dude!
2 years ago
Looks like a proper abomination. So much useless metal...
Tip 3 years ago
Be aware that the acrylic "box" or case for PC does not pass FCC regulations. Thats why more than one case mfr gave up this line of product. A metal case absorbs electrical high freq signals that emanate from processor and mobo in operation. These can affect nearby mobile phones or sensitive equipment eg. In a laboratory. Maybe even you! We don't have much research or knowledge in this area! There are endless discussions on this topic starting with "why the sparrows left us". Also external signals can affect your mobo operation more in an acrylic case as there is no metal or "faraday cage" effect to absorb them. Further acrylic can catch fire and burns merrily. Place an acrylic piece near a flame and see! Once it catches fire it continues to burn like a candle!
Reply 2 years ago
Sorry bro busted... Computer cases to not act as Faraday cages unless they're made out of an electrically conductive material so if you have aluminum stainless steel or glass it doesn't work as a faraday cage. And furthermore why would you want a faraday cage around your Wi-Fi transceiver.
Reply 3 years ago
Wow
What a long response
Many thanks! (:
3 years ago
very nice job !
3 years ago on Step 25
Awesome!! I'm trying same project then i came across your article. I'm sticking my acrylic pieces together, no clamps. Bottom panel, I'm bending to rear where we attach screws for PSU for more structural integrity. Acetone makes strong enough bonds with 5mm acrylic I'm using. I suggest don't use lower thickness than 5 or 6mm. For HDD or SSD i plan using two acrylic sheets stuck on bottom sheet to form bay. Maybe reinforce with two Metal L clamps for safety.
Reply 3 years ago
Thanks man!
Thanks for the tip
BTW
Which glue did you use?
I would buy also
Reply 3 years ago
I already said i used ACETONE. Its nailpolish remover in pure form. There are specially formulated acrylic bonding agents sold under brand names but in my city these are not available. Acrylic makes a strong bond on 4 or 5 mm sheet edges. The edges must be sufficiently clean, smoothened and pressed together by hand for 90 seconds, using a 5 ml medical Syringe apply tiny drops at the edge, it will be pulled into the joint gap automatically (keep the joint or seam nearly vertical to avoid the adhesive running into nearby areas as it will cloud those areas). Later to check the joint Turn it over and the dark area under the seam indicates the joint has fused properly. The solvent actually dissolves acrylic and "welds" them together, a gentle pressure helps. In 48 hours the joint reaches full strength. I used "quikfix" or "instant adhesive" methyl methacrylate before but acetone forms still stronger joints. Solvents like Methylene di chloride/ Dichloromethane (DCM), and MEK Methyl ethyl ketone are also good to form strong acrylic joint but have health risks, these solvents create vapors and adsorbed through skin, be careful!!!. Acetone is safe, non carcinogenic. I don't even wear gloves.
4 years ago
Awesome man, so I'm building (well no, I'm building it I want to get pieces) a Arilic Box, 5 sided.
I want to to go on a already existing tower, its the 'CRE P3 (Snow Edition)'.
It's going to be amazing little project.
So I found a site all that but the price!; Whoa, it's $303.98 for 1 to 8 pieces, if it's over that, it's cheaper, the more pieces the cheaper it gets.
So I could always get three made up.
Anyway, I really liked this project, if you have any advice it'd be welcome.
7 years ago
Wow it looks perfect...
Reply 7 years ago
Thanks dude
9 years ago
Can I buy one from you?
9 years ago on Introduction
Nicely done. Though, I'm curious to know how well is heat controlled. Cheers!
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
Thanks!
As far as i saw , there is no heat at all inside the case.
I inserted a Thermometer and check the Temp , it was about 30 or so ...
regular temp ..
Also , the Plexiglas is very good with in coping with the heat