Plexiglas Computer

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Intro: Plexiglas Computer

Hello everyone

My brother ( Zack ) has got a birthday on October. and his Living room computer decided to commit suicide 

Since i love building stuff ( Especially from Plexiglas ) i made him a super cool HTPC Computer with a case of Plexiglas !


Enjoy !

 :) 





STEP 1: Purchase List

The Things you need to buy in order to complete this Instructable are:

Material :

1 x 1.5 Meter of Regular 4 MM Plexiglas
60 x 15 CM of Black 3 MM Plexiglas

Computer Parts :

MotherBoard (Intel H67 )
Cpu (Intel G2030 )
Cooling Fan for CPU (Zalman )
Power supply  (Slim Seasonic 250Watt )
HDD 320GB
Chassis Fan
2 Switches ( On/OFF  & Reset )
Small LED Strip



Tools and peripherals :

Bolts and Nuts ( 120 or so )
Drill +Drill kit
Saw + Special blade for metal - best for cutting plastic
Electric driller
Wires for LED and for lengthening the  Chassis Fan
Hot Glue
Tin with Tin snips ( For brackets of HDD )
Dremel Tool + Dremel Kit
Clamps
Aluminum angles
Working Gloves
Caliber


And off we go !

STEP 2: Cutting the Plexiglas

Take the measures of the Future to be Computer case and cut the Plexiglas with a Jigsaw 

STEP 3: Arrange All the Hardware on Plexiglas

Place the Motherboard , fans, HDD, and Power Supply on the Plexiglas - figure out how you would want everything to be placed.

Make sure to think ahead, maybe in the future you would want to add an additional HDD , or and additional Cooling FAN.





STEP 4: Cut Side Opening for the Chassis Fan

Since the fan is the highest part i will Measure it`s height  and cut accordingly the Plexiglas

STEP 5: Create an Opening for the Rear Bracket of the Mother Board and PSU

Each motherboard comes with this Aluminum bracket 

Moreover i had to cut the rear Plexiglas to match the Power Supply opening

It is very easy to break the Plexiglas , so be careful  when you cut it, especially when you cut one piece of Plexiglas multiple times ( in multiple places).





STEP 6: Create a Bracket for HDD

The HDD will be in a standing position , for that i had to cut with Tin Snips aluminum sheet

From past experience , It is very easy to cut yourself , so please use special Gloves




STEP 7: Create Legs for the Case

Create legs for the case in order it will stand still and be stable

STEP 8: Assemble the Aluminum Angles

Take measures and mark each and every place you would want the angles to sit.

Make sure you choose a good  neutral place that wont interrupt the motherboard or other parts that will be assembled later

STEP 9: Create Spacers for the Motherboard

You would want the Motherboard to have space between the Plexiglas  ( for Heat dissipation and for safety issue )

I  took a new rubber pipe , cut 8 pieces ( That match the 8 holes of the MB )  and drilled the Plexiglas accordingly 

STEP 10: Let the Assembly Begin!

Now we need to start the initial Assembly.

That means that we will assemble everything ,make sure that it works properly. and then we will disassemble it in order to peal off The Protective layer of the Plexiglas ( Nylon )

STEP 11: Still Assembling

STEP 12: Create an LED Stripe and Connect It to the PSU

I had an LED strip ( 5M ) 

I only needed 4 cm.

After soldering two small points on the LED strip , i connected a MOLEX connector to the LED strip.

STEP 13: Solder Two Small Switches for the ON/OFF & Reset

I used two of this rubbish switches.

Why i got to this conclusion that they are rubbish ?

Well , i started to work with the computer , and suddenly it did a reboot all by itself.

I eliminated the problem of the OS , but it still did not solve it.

I then started to disassemble the whole parts of the computer .. started with the Memory ( No problem ) , the FANS ( No problem ) , The HDD ( No problem ) 

THE COMPUTER WAS STILL REBOOTING!!



I ran a 3rd party diagnostic and nothing came up , i even stress test the MB & CPU but nothing came up.


And then i told to my self  " maybe it is the Switches ?!?!  "  

And it was !!

I disassembled them  and burned them!!!@


Overall it took me more than 6 hours just to figure out it was the problem.



Bottom line - don`t but cheap products , there is a greater risk that they will break !

STEP 14: New Switches


STEP 15: Insert Two LED Lights ( HDD & Power ) Into Front Plexiglas

Two regular LED lights that connect directly to the Motherboard and gives us indication on the status of the system ( ON/OFF etc` )


I drilled two small holes in the Plexiglas , and inserted inside the LED and applied HOT GLUE on it to stay in place

STEP 16: Assemble Front USB Jack

Got from my stash a USB  Connector.


I drilled two holes in the bottom front case and attached it with a cable tie.

i then measured with a Caliber the width of the USB and took the measures and cut the front Plexiglas panel.


STEP 17: Extend FAN Cable

The fan was sitting perfectly fine , but he was too far from the MB connector


So i had to cut it`s wires , solder longer ones , and wrap it with " Shrinkers " 

STEP 18: Install Windows !

Installed Windows 7 Sp1 x64


Installed all the Latest drivers  and added all third party software needed.

STEP 19: Disassembling Everything and Peeling Off the Protective Layer of the Plexiglas

Now we are starting to enter the final stage .

I Disassembled everything , and removed the Plexiglas protective nylon.

then i started to put everything back together.


STEP 20: Clear Case!

Starting to look AWESOME !

STEP 21: Assembling the Motherboard

I placed all the rubber spacers beneath the Motherboard , and then i placed it

STEP 22: Assembling the Power Supply

The Power supply was not easy.

If you place it inside the Case, and you shove the power cord from the outer side of the case then the whole Power supply is moving And isn`t placed properly

So i have to mount this small bracket in order to keep the PSU from moving


STEP 23: Assembling the HDD

STEP 24: Add Small Net on the Side of the FANS

I Cut a plastic net in the size of the square.

And then i painted it in BLACK

STEP 25: Completed!

That`s it.


The assembly has finished ! Finally!

Overall it took me  80 hours or so to finish this project , i`m very happy  with the result !

The computer itself is very quiet ( Plexiglas is a very good isolating material )  ,you can enjoy watching movies , Browsing the Web,Hearing music ( via the 7.1 Optical capability )



Comments are welcomed!


:)





20 Comments

This is really awesome!!! Good project.
Looks like a proper abomination. So much useless metal...
Be aware that the acrylic "box" or case for PC does not pass FCC regulations. Thats why more than one case mfr gave up this line of product. A metal case absorbs electrical high freq signals that emanate from processor and mobo in operation. These can affect nearby mobile phones or sensitive equipment eg. In a laboratory. Maybe even you! We don't have much research or knowledge in this area! There are endless discussions on this topic starting with "why the sparrows left us". Also external signals can affect your mobo operation more in an acrylic case as there is no metal or "faraday cage" effect to absorb them. Further acrylic can catch fire and burns merrily. Place an acrylic piece near a flame and see! Once it catches fire it continues to burn like a candle!
Sorry bro busted... Computer cases to not act as Faraday cages unless they're made out of an electrically conductive material so if you have aluminum stainless steel or glass it doesn't work as a faraday cage. And furthermore why would you want a faraday cage around your Wi-Fi transceiver.
Wow
What a long response
Many thanks! (:
Awesome!! I'm trying same project then i came across your article. I'm sticking my acrylic pieces together, no clamps. Bottom panel, I'm bending to rear where we attach screws for PSU for more structural integrity. Acetone makes strong enough bonds with 5mm acrylic I'm using. I suggest don't use lower thickness than 5 or 6mm. For HDD or SSD i plan using two acrylic sheets stuck on bottom sheet to form bay. Maybe reinforce with two Metal L clamps for safety.
Thanks man!
Thanks for the tip
BTW

Which glue did you use?
I would buy also
I already said i used ACETONE. Its nailpolish remover in pure form. There are specially formulated acrylic bonding agents sold under brand names but in my city these are not available. Acrylic makes a strong bond on 4 or 5 mm sheet edges. The edges must be sufficiently clean, smoothened and pressed together by hand for 90 seconds, using a 5 ml medical Syringe apply tiny drops at the edge, it will be pulled into the joint gap automatically (keep the joint or seam nearly vertical to avoid the adhesive running into nearby areas as it will cloud those areas). Later to check the joint Turn it over and the dark area under the seam indicates the joint has fused properly. The solvent actually dissolves acrylic and "welds" them together, a gentle pressure helps. In 48 hours the joint reaches full strength. I used "quikfix" or "instant adhesive" methyl methacrylate before but acetone forms still stronger joints. Solvents like Methylene di chloride/ Dichloromethane (DCM), and MEK Methyl ethyl ketone are also good to form strong acrylic joint but have health risks, these solvents create vapors and adsorbed through skin, be careful!!!. Acetone is safe, non carcinogenic. I don't even wear gloves.
Awesome man, so I'm building (well no, I'm building it I want to get pieces) a Arilic Box, 5 sided.
I want to to go on a already existing tower, its the 'CRE P3 (Snow Edition)'.
It's going to be amazing little project.
So I found a site all that but the price!; Whoa, it's $303.98 for 1 to 8 pieces, if it's over that, it's cheaper, the more pieces the cheaper it gets.
So I could always get three made up.

Anyway, I really liked this project, if you have any advice it'd be welcome.
Can I buy one from you?
Nicely done. Though, I'm curious to know how well is heat controlled. Cheers!
Thanks!

As far as i saw , there is no heat at all inside the case.

I inserted a Thermometer and check the Temp , it was about 30 or so ...

regular temp ..

Also , the Plexiglas is very good with in coping with the heat