Portable Beer Frisbee Poles
Intro: Portable Beer Frisbee Poles
After playing Beer Frisbee at a family event, I knew I had to create my own. I searched online and found a lot of different websites dedicated to the rules of the game, and to what the game is called. Regardless of searching for Beer Frisbee, Beersbee, Frisbeer, Polish Horseshoes, French Darts, and a few others names, I couldn't find a good guide for actually BUILDING the required poles. I set out to change that by writing my first Instructable after years of just browsing the site. All of the materials were bought for about $50 at my local Home Depot and the build took a couple hours, mostly due to extremely high temps and trying to remember to take pictures along the way.
In this Instructable, I'm not going to explain the rules of the game. There are so many different ways to play that you'll have to decide which version works best for you. Search any of the above names of the game on your favorite search engine and you'll find more than enough ways to play. Chances are, if you found this Instructable, you've already played somewhere else and will stick with the rules you first learned.
In this Instructable, I'm not going to explain the rules of the game. There are so many different ways to play that you'll have to decide which version works best for you. Search any of the above names of the game on your favorite search engine and you'll find more than enough ways to play. Chances are, if you found this Instructable, you've already played somewhere else and will stick with the rules you first learned.
STEP 1: Materials & Tools
Materials:
Qty 4 - 1-1/2" PVC Pipe cut to 2.5' (30"). I had an employee at Home Depot cut a 10' long piece into four equal length pieces.
Qty 2 - 1-1/2" PVC Coupling
Qty 2 - 1-1/2" PVC to 1-1/2" Thread Fitting
Qty 2 - 2" to 1-1/2" PVC Reducer
Qty 2 - 1-1/2" Pipe Thread Metal Flanges
Qty 2 - Boards to act as bases. I was able to find 2 pieces of pressure treated 2" x10" x 24" for $1 each in the cull (scrap) bin.
Qty 8 - #14 x 1-1/2" Flat Head Screws. These came in packs of two at Home Depot.
Qty 1 - PVC Primer (Purple Can)
Qty 1 - PVC Cement (Gold Can)
Qty 2 - Beer Bottle. I've played with 16oz plastic bottles (with some rice inside for weight) that work a lot better than glass. No worrying about breaking a bottle and it hurts a LOT less when it lands on your feet.
Qty 1 - Frisbee, of course.
Tools:
Drill and drill bits
Screwdriver
Framing Square (optional)
Gloves
Table or Mitre Saw (optional if you need to cut your own wood or PVC pipe)
Sunscreen if you're a redhead building this at noon on a 100+ °F day in July.
Qty 4 - 1-1/2" PVC Pipe cut to 2.5' (30"). I had an employee at Home Depot cut a 10' long piece into four equal length pieces.
Qty 2 - 1-1/2" PVC Coupling
Qty 2 - 1-1/2" PVC to 1-1/2" Thread Fitting
Qty 2 - 2" to 1-1/2" PVC Reducer
Qty 2 - 1-1/2" Pipe Thread Metal Flanges
Qty 2 - Boards to act as bases. I was able to find 2 pieces of pressure treated 2" x10" x 24" for $1 each in the cull (scrap) bin.
Qty 8 - #14 x 1-1/2" Flat Head Screws. These came in packs of two at Home Depot.
Qty 1 - PVC Primer (Purple Can)
Qty 1 - PVC Cement (Gold Can)
Qty 2 - Beer Bottle. I've played with 16oz plastic bottles (with some rice inside for weight) that work a lot better than glass. No worrying about breaking a bottle and it hurts a LOT less when it lands on your feet.
Qty 1 - Frisbee, of course.
Tools:
Drill and drill bits
Screwdriver
Framing Square (optional)
Gloves
Table or Mitre Saw (optional if you need to cut your own wood or PVC pipe)
Sunscreen if you're a redhead building this at noon on a 100+ °F day in July.
STEP 2: Prime the PVC Parts
These directions are for making one pipe. Just follow them again for the other pipe.
You'll prime both ends of one pipe and just one end of the second pipe.
Also prime the inner 1-1/2" diameter of the reducer, threaded adapter, and ONE half of the 1-1/2" coupling.
Apply the PVC Primer per the directions on the can. Remember that the stuff smells awful and is very nauseating, so do this in a well ventilated area like outside.
You'll prime both ends of one pipe and just one end of the second pipe.
Also prime the inner 1-1/2" diameter of the reducer, threaded adapter, and ONE half of the 1-1/2" coupling.
Apply the PVC Primer per the directions on the can. Remember that the stuff smells awful and is very nauseating, so do this in a well ventilated area like outside.
STEP 3: Combine PVC Parts
Now you'll build the two halves of the PVC pole. Again, this step only shows the building of one of the two poles, just repeat for the second pole.
Apply PVC Cement following the directions on the can. Mine said to apply the cement to the outer diameter of the pipe first, then the inner diameter of the fittings, then press together with a bit of a twisting motion to get the pipe to seat all the way into the bottom of the fitting.
Pipe with both ends primed:
- Cement the 1-1/2" threaded adapter on one end
- Cement the 1-1/2" coupling to the other end.
Pipe with ONE end primed:
- Cement the 2" to 1-1/2" reducer onto the primed end.
Apply PVC Cement following the directions on the can. Mine said to apply the cement to the outer diameter of the pipe first, then the inner diameter of the fittings, then press together with a bit of a twisting motion to get the pipe to seat all the way into the bottom of the fitting.
Pipe with both ends primed:
- Cement the 1-1/2" threaded adapter on one end
- Cement the 1-1/2" coupling to the other end.
Pipe with ONE end primed:
- Cement the 2" to 1-1/2" reducer onto the primed end.
STEP 4: Build the Base
Again, this step shows the building of one base. Repeat for both bases.
This is a pretty simple and straightforward step. All you're doing is attaching the pipe flange to the wooden base board.
I went a bit overboard (I have Engineer's Disease) and used a framing square to get pretty close to the center of the board and to give myself alignment lines for attaching the flange. You could just as easily eyeball the flange in the center and mark your mounting holes with a pencil.
After marking your mounting holes, drill a pilot hole for each and then install. I used a 5/16" drill bit for the #14 screws. Just remember that you want the pilot hole to be about the same size as the inner shank of the screw (even a bit smaller) so there's material for the threads of the screw to grab onto.
This is a pretty simple and straightforward step. All you're doing is attaching the pipe flange to the wooden base board.
I went a bit overboard (I have Engineer's Disease) and used a framing square to get pretty close to the center of the board and to give myself alignment lines for attaching the flange. You could just as easily eyeball the flange in the center and mark your mounting holes with a pencil.
After marking your mounting holes, drill a pilot hole for each and then install. I used a 5/16" drill bit for the #14 screws. Just remember that you want the pilot hole to be about the same size as the inner shank of the screw (even a bit smaller) so there's material for the threads of the screw to grab onto.
STEP 5: Assemble the Pieces
Finally, assemble the three components into a Beer Frisbee pole. Repeat for the second pole.
First, screw the lower half of the pole into the pipe flange on the base. Then press the upper pipe (with the 2" to 1-1/2" reducer on top) into the 1-1/2" coupling at the top of the lower pipe. Make sure the pipe is snug, but don't over do it. The idea is that the three pieces come back apart for easy transportation.
Feel free to paint or otherwise decorate your new Beer Frisbee poles! They look a bit shabby with purple primer poking through at the cemented joints.
Enjoy!
First, screw the lower half of the pole into the pipe flange on the base. Then press the upper pipe (with the 2" to 1-1/2" reducer on top) into the 1-1/2" coupling at the top of the lower pipe. Make sure the pipe is snug, but don't over do it. The idea is that the three pieces come back apart for easy transportation.
Feel free to paint or otherwise decorate your new Beer Frisbee poles! They look a bit shabby with purple primer poking through at the cemented joints.
Enjoy!
14 Comments
Kps209 9 years ago
MichaelB45 9 years ago
These are great plans. I'll be making these tomorrow. Thanks so much. I did have one alteration to it. While the board is perfect for flat surfaces, if there is really thick grass, or it is a bit uneven, I'm planning to drill two or for holes in the corners, and then use some turf spikes (nails) to secure it a bit more into the grass. They can be easily removed once your done. Thanks again.
UCVDub 9 years ago
tyler.blackford 9 years ago
bryans7 9 years ago
im building the same thing but using 1 gal. buckets filled with concrete. It's going to be in two pieces a small piece inside the concrete and a stick with your top on it that will thread into it! Thanks for the top idea. Also if you guys duct tape the bottles they last about 30 games playing on concrete!
UCVDub 10 years ago
Also, we bought a Nite Ize Flashflight LED frisbee on Amazon last year and it works great in the dark.
superj300 10 years ago
Have you considered not gluing the parts together? They seem to fit together pretty snugly, and as hard as the frisbee might hit the pole, I don't see them coming apart very easily. Have you tried this and/or run into any issues?
UCVDub 10 years ago
msansone 10 years ago
mcgann2113 11 years ago
UCVDub 11 years ago
Playing with cans is a lot safer but definitely harder. They fly off the top and are MUCH harder to catch.
trayo 11 years ago
UCVDub 11 years ago
I'll try to get some more pics that show the three complete pieces next to each other.
Stage 2 will be adding features to the base boards to snap/clip the two pipe halves onto it and maybe a built in carrying handle.
MKosterich 11 years ago